LongLine

WTG!  

Stuff already mentioned does affect blowback however there are a couple other variables.  (!) size of your cable.  200 Lb has much more blowback than 150Lb wire. (2) coated cable has more blowback than uncoated (3) shape of your weight.  Cannonballs have more blowback than torpedo or fish shaped weights. (4) hardware you're running.  Probes will require at least 2 Lbs more to achieve the depth you want.  Flashers & pinchpads will have a slight effect also. 

Well that's a load off your mind...Compression difference is real bad...definitely a rebuild.  rings, head, etc. or someone bought for parts. (cuz they expensive)   Good luck with finding a new one.  Let us know what you get.

Do not run "off" the ball, rather run "ABOVE" the ball. (and above probes)   Blacks is the only one I use.

BB - not necessarily changing winds.  If the ripples are in the same direction on both sides of the calm area, it's definitely a temp change.  i.e slightly different density issue and/or local surface current change.

I was also out Wed, basically off Long Pond.  Saw lots of bait in 65-70FOW.  Got 2 small salmon over 105FOW, near the surface on Blk/slvr spooks.  

When you're in an area with a surface ripple then see a glass smooth surface area, there's a surface temperature change there.  It might be anywhere from 0.2 to 0.5 degree F. 

On 6/1/2023 at 12:44 PM, Apparition said:

It does not seem that the Niagara plume is the whole story though.  

 

I still wonder why the two sources from NOAA look different.

If you look at all 5 of these graphs you'll see they are for specific Longitudinal lines and 1 latitude (which is E-W in the middle of the lake.)  The temp midway between the longitudes can be slightly different. 

True Upwellings are unstable water.  Although some fish are caught there, I've always had better luck to the outside of them where the water is much more stable.  i.e. as Brian said "head offshore."

WTG!

WTG!

On my compression gauge there's a knurled ring up by the gauge to release pressure.  If that's not fully engaged, (closed) readings will be very misleading.  If still low, squirt a few drops of oil in the cylinder and test again.  (If still low, I'd go to an auto parts store & see if I could rent a gauge for a couple hours)

By hard to start, do you mean engine didn't want to turn over or do you mean it took a long time cranking to start?  I.e did you have to lay on the starter for a long time?  

A couple years ago, when I was out in Big-O and engine stalled on me.  Dumb me...I cranked & cranked..   After about 10 minutes of rest & panicked swearing, it started but died again.  I hobbled back to launch on kicker.  I was dumb cuz all that cranking really weakened my starter. Testing it and I had to replace it.  Starter shouldn't take more than 3 or 4 seconds at most to get it going.

Checked carbs & pump, recharged battery. Ran fine in driveway for about 5 minutes & I was happy.  Took to launch, it started fine but when I put it in gear & backing out, it died and wouldn't start.  After a lot of swearing, I asked for help in the forum on "Iboats.com. " (where I learned that there were a lot of 3 bangers still going strong.)  Anyways, a suggestion was to check the automatic choke solenoid.  Sure, as beans, the O-ring inside it was shot and the spring was fouled. This solenoid allows a lot of fuel into the engine, and it was flooding out.  (E-10 gas *!**!!)  Runs like a top now. 

Make sure you TEST, TEST, TEST & retest components before replacing them.  Parts can get very expensive!  

DOUBLE CHECK that compression!!!!!   That's very very low!  Older 3 bangers should be around 90 psi.  Any engine below 70 is going to run like sh[t.  You sure your gauge is working properly?   Hopefully the gauge you're using is a "screw-in" not a hand-held one. 

A bad coil can take out/deteriorate the power pack.  That's why I replaced all 3 coils. Coils can be expensive, but I bought mine from "Marineengine.com".

I'd suggest you buy a cheap multimeter (ohm meter) and test all 3 coils and the power pack before you put any more money into it.  Again, Harbour Freight has them cheap (No I don't work for HF....some of their stuff is worthless but their multimeter is more than enough for what you need)

You can google the specs and test procedures for your engine.  Those 3 bangers are almost indestructible and there's a lot of info and videos out there. 

As for hard to "turn over". pull all the plugs out and wrap a rope around the flywheel.  PULL!  (As you didn't hear any noises, it could be that you just wore your battery down trying to start it)  

You can buy an inline spark tester at Harbor Freight for like $5 and test in your driveway.  (disconnect all plugs so it doesn't start) Tester should illuminate the same for all 3 plugs.  I had a similar condition on my "3 banger" (Less the VRO) a few years ago.  i.e top plug very wet after idling.  I found that I had a weak coil.   I replaced all 3 coils and performance improved dramatically.

you're not sparking properly on that top cylinder.  

Feel free to call them & find out (585-428-7432) rather than being a ""keyboard warrior."

The falls at Driving Park have been roaring lately so the ramp fills in fast.  I've seen it clean one day and totally plugged up 3 days later. I also know that there are at least 9 cameras monitoring the marina & launch.

Thanx for cleaning it up.

On your riggers, what type of fishing line, pound test and type of release do you use for salmon on Lake Ontario?

(I've use Pline, 15Lb with Black's releases)

Anyone know anything about Polar Kraft boats?  

2 hours ago, lrg355 said:

Sounds just like the poly coated kraft paper reinforced VCI to prevent corrosion.  Makes sense, you learn something everyday.  Now to find some!

Try an industrial supply house such as grainger.com or mcmaster.com

I've been googling.  Here's what I found:  Could be VCI paper.  Chemically treated paer that helps prevent corrosion due to moisture.  Used to protect all metals & metal parts, especially in shipping & storage.  Found this at www.zerust.com. 

I would have guessed a thin gasket material or rubber, but not sure why they put it in there.  Spacer to assure a tight fit? Reduce vibration?    I'd ask on I-boats forum.  (iboats.com)  They have a lot of guys that do restorations. 

Never heard of any "paper" used in a tank.  Suspect more than likely a chemical residue/sludge that's hardened up over time.  Ethanol gas will definitely do exactly that to old rubber hoses.  I had a gas line leak under my floor boards years ago when that happened to fuel line.  I replaced everything with ethanol resistant rubber & rerouted line above floor boards.  

Also, if you have an older engine, check all of its fuel lines and o-rings. (especially any "automatic choke solenoids.")

 Make sure the wire is not traveling up to the edge of the pulley and riding between the edge of the pulley and its housing.  When you let wire out on a rigger with coated cable,  the rigger should be pointed towards the rear of the boat....NOT at an angle to the boat.  This will keep the wire centered in the bottom of the pulley.  Invest in a good swivel base if you want to run probe rigger at an angle to the boat.

I'd replace the end pulley and it;s axle.  It may not be free spinning or have a groove in it.  (Pulley may be hanging up at some part of rotation when under load.)

Tritium 1/2 life about 12.5 years.  Low Beta emitter. (combines with oxygen to form water, Beta travels about a foot in air)  Here's what EPA says about the tritium.

Radionuclide Basics: Tritium | US EPA