Shellback

I've got a Mercury Quicksilver prop 13.75x15 3 blade aluminum. It's as new, only had it on a motor once. It's a 4" flo torque hub model. I'd let it go for $100 plus shipping. PM me an email addy if you want some pictures.

I have a 55# 54" shaft model om my Alaskan 1600. I think you should consider an 80# model for a 20 footer.

I've used them, great product. If your D/R's have a clutch knob like Big Jon's, set it so it will pay out cable if you get snagged. 

I have no problem paying the fee as a seller. As a buyer and sending money as a gift, you have no protection at all. How many sellers would like to send the goods out to a buyer without getting paid ahead of time? Kind of the same deal. No protection that the buyer will send the money. I personally have sent goods before payment, and also received goods before payment. But there has to be trust involved. 

I've dealt with PayPal's fraud division before (not from a purchase on LOU), and let me tell you, it's almost easier to just take the hit and walk away. First, they needed to contact the seller to let them try to make it right. Of course, they got the run around. So they gave him a second chance. He BS'd about sending something out. I got an empty box in the mail. He produced the shipping invoice for PayPal and I actually had to point out that the weight of the shipment was no more than the box alone...couldn't possibly have been downriggers in there. Okay, so what does PayPal do after this? They give him another chance. Holy S###! The guy stopped responding to them entirely. And even then, I was told that they would need 30 days MORE after last hearing from him to refund my money. So much for "being protected". All in all, I think that it took three months and several hours on the phone to resolve this. I still use PayPal, but mainly for the convenience.

But you did get your money back, right? 

Thanks for all the replies. I'm going with the Convectors.

Anyone have first hand experience, and which one you would recommend?  Thanks!

Is that the one for a 45 degree angle Sport track? The boat in the picture seems to have the 45 degree angle track, but the bracket isn't attached to the track, and the other side of the bracket looks to be a 90 degree angle? I have a 2013 Lund Alaskan with the 45 degree gunnel, so if you have any info on the bracket that shows it for that model, I'll take it.

I have a pair of the Big Birds somewhere? If you might be interested, let me know and I try and find them.

I think most folks got tired of the bumps," Best deal on Ontario". Best deals don't linger 3 months. Good luck with your new rig.

I have an Echomap 70DV, and just bought a 70S to use for GPS. I like 2 separate screens. The 70S can be bought for less than $500 now. Here's a couplescreen shots from my 70DV. The bridge one isn't that clear as I had been circling around to get the picture and I had the water all chopped up.

If you want to drag your boat down to Montrose, PA. I've used Pennypacker Welding and he did an excellent job on an aluminum project. 

Come on shell back. We all know you pennsultuckians can come up with that much cash !!! You pimpin your sis.

Actually I'm looking for an Alaskan, preferably a 16 footer though. I got the cash alright, but if a seller doesn't put a price up, I won't even bother to call. Is his price so high he's embarrassed to post it? If he's serious about selling it, get some pictures and a price up. 

I'll go $500! 

You could try running a concentrated mix of Sea Foam additive and gas through the motor. If you have a portable tank, mix 1 can of Sea Foam with 1 gallon of gas, then run that through the motor. You might get lucky.

There are very small diameter jets in the 4 stroke carbs. Do to lack of use and stale fuel, chances are there could be some corrosion from ethanol fuel in the idle jets of the carbs. Base your offer on the boat based on having the carbs rebuilt. Don't count on a fuel treatment to cure the problems.

Do a search on "the hulltruth". Less than stellar reviews for sure. blackbird did post a letter from a satisfied customer, Jim Rutter of PA. I do know the man, and he was completely satisfied with the motor he bought. Although he did need to bring it back for a repair. Another fellow I know wasn't happy at all. Seems the motor he bought was pieced together from different years. A nightmare to get parts for when needed. 

Could drill it out and install a larger thread diameter bolt? I guess it would also depend if there's enough meat on the stater flange to drill for a larger bolt. Maybe even get a machine shop to make a stepped stud. Larger diameter to go into the bell housing, and the smaller diameter for the starter.

Check out this link.  https://search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?type=avastbcl&hspart=avast&hsimp=yhs-001&p=kicker+motor+bracket+swim+platform

Is the fitting threaded where it goes into the carb? If so, you might be able to change it out with brass components. In fact, I'd try and change out each one. Could be ethanol gas deteriorating the plastic.

Not familiar with an Opti, but I did work on a 250 EFI Merc. Pretty simple procedure to pull the head. You would need to get the torque and tightening specification for installation. Any race or high performance shops nearby? They usually have top quality mechanics that may be able to install a helicoil without pulling the head. 

You can use a thread chaser, just smear grease on the chaser and only go a turn at a time then back it out, I use carb. Cleaner and wash the chaser clean and repeat the process unti finished. It takes time but less than pulling the head.

Exactly! 

The SEI drives have been around awhile now. I haven't seen any negative posts about them. I paid about $1100 to have the upper section of my Mercruiser outdrive repaired about 12 years ago. I wouldn't have the mechanic waste his time on the old one, if I could buy new with a 3 year warranty for $1100.

PS If it's a flex line, you can probably match it up at a local auto parts store. You will have to bleed the brakes afterwards. Try Googling "bleeding hydraulic surge brakes for a trailer". As there is a specific way it has to be done.

If the master cylinder blew a seal, I kinda doubt you would hear a pop. Normally they just develop a leak that gets worse with time. There is probably a flex hose off the master cylinder, If it blew, I'd bet that's what might have caused a popping noise.