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stinger

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Posts posted by stinger

  1. This may help in your wire selection. Running from a fuse panel will work. The length of the wire run will also enter into the equation so if you have long runs from the power source (fuse panel, battery etc.) check to see what is recommended but you don't have to be direct to a battery.

     

    Amperage Capacities for Standard Non-Metallic (NM) Cable
    14-gauge wire 15 amps
    12-gauge wire 20 amps
    10-gauge wire 30 amps
    8-gauge wire 40 amps
    6-gauge wire 55 amps
    4-gauge wire 70 amps
    3-gauge wire 85 amps
    2-gauge wire 95 amps

     

    Big Jon downrigger wiring basics

    https://www.bigjon.com/the-reel/downrigger-wiring-basics-/

     

     

     

     

    • Like 1
  2. All good advice. Many options to think about. My ONE cents is to hook the autopilot to the main and connect kicker with a ( Panther quick disconnect) connecting rod. The autopilot can be used for both trolling and cruising. If your electronics are compatible with your autopilot then you also have the ability to chart courses and navigate (cruising or trolling) with your GPS chart plotter waypoints. Connecting to your main is the best of both worlds. I installed a Raymarine unit this summer and it cost me about $2K by the time I was done and that included all the fittings and lines which included upgrading the main lines from the helm to the main engine.

     

    Connecting rod link:  https://www.discountmarinesupplies.com/Auxiliary_Motor_Steering-Panther_Auxiliary_Motor_Steering_Kit_.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAmsrxBRDaARIsANyiD1pdjBBbufGAocPwbDRf_jnzknL0zvDTNtOcJi3jsf5niSqZX0sT784aArBDEALw_wcB

     

    Edit: I failed to mention that I installed a EV-150. Got it for $1,692.86 delivered to my door. I changed the main hydraulic lines on recommendation by Raymarine Tech because I have a BayStar helm. 

    • Like 1
  3. It may be better to go with the bag route and leave the engine alone. A pair of small (18") bags like  those in the link below should slow you down to trolling speed.  I use 24"s on my 19' because I wanted to run my kicker at a higher RPM for better thrust/control in the wind.

    https://www.amazon.com/Danielson-24in-Drift-Sock-Anchor/dp/B006L10Z2A/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=Danielson%2BDrift%2BSock%2BAnchor&qid=1570803638&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-4&th=1&psc=1

  4. On 10/2/2019 at 1:09 AM, NortheastHardcoreSportsman said:

    I fish in Maine a lot for Salmon and Trout but I recently started fishing Lake Ontario more and don't mind the travel down from Maine. I have a 21ft Islander with 4 Cannon UniTroll 10STX manual downriggers. Im not 100% sold on Cannon I've had a ton of problems with 2 of my current riggers while the other 2 have been great. Im looking for recommendations and reviews on a pair of electrics in the 1,000-1200 to replace two of my manuals. Open to all brands never owned electrics before and would like to have some feedback from folks who use them! 

    Thanks Everyone!

     

    I don't want to get into the Chevy vs Ford Vs Dodge argument. Just adding my suggestion of another brand to look at.

     

    I have been using BigJon's since 1991 and am still using the original two I bought back then. Added two more to the set when I bought a new boat in 2002. They are not the fastest retrieve rate out there but these units are dependable, Affordable and easily user repairable if needed. I seldom fish deeper than 120' but often am down in the 80' to 110' with 12lb sharks. They have units with heavier motors if you want to use heavier weights for deeper depths.

    Good luck with whatever riggers you get. 

    • Like 1
  5. The only difference in the engine kits is the mounting bracket for the servo. Nessan/Tohatsu make the Mercury smaller outboard engines. That is why the same kit number is used on several different engines.Take a look at the picture for the TM214HWKIT kit and see if that looks the same as your engine. 

    What the mounting bracket does is hold the servo inline with the throttle linkage so the servo arm can pull the throttle to increase/decrease  speed.

     

    https://96bda424cfcc34d9dd1a-0a7f10f87519dba22d2dbc6233a731e5.ssl.cf2.rackcdn.com/trollmasters/installation-guides/TM214D_v1_pdf.pdf

  6. I have had both types of tabs. The smart tabs work good as are advertised but you will not be able to control varying side to side load shifts such as people or coolers and sea conditions.  I took off the smart tabs and installed the Lenco electric tabs and that takes care all load and sea conditions while on the fly. 

    • Like 1
  7. This Raymarine SmartPilot X5r Sport is fully functional and has all hardware, fittings and manuals. The drive unit for the helm is getting vary stiff and makes the steering wheel hard to turn in StandBy (manual) mode. Works fine in Auto mode.  It was fully functional as of last Saturday (8/24/19) and I pulled it out of my boat to be replaced with a different autopilot. Raymarine will not service these units any longer so it can be used as a project to see if you can adjust the clutches and release spring in the sport drive unit or it can be used for parts. 

     
     
    The pictures of the control head display were taken 8/24/2019 showing Standby and Auto mode and I removed the autopilot on Sunday 8/25/19
     
    These parts on Ebay for example:
    ST6002 Control Head $325.00 used
    X5 Course Computer $ 285.00 used
    Fluxgate Compass $ 145.00 used
    SportDrive unit   $  ??
     
     
    $300.00 or reasonable offer. PM me if you prefer.
    Can be picked up in Binghamton area.

    SP X5a.jpg

    SP X5b.jpg

    SP X5c.jpg

    SP X5d.jpg

  8. My Raymarine Sportpilot x5 drive head crapped out. Raymarine said they will not repair them any longer. I have BayStar steering and was thinking of using the Raymarine Ev-100 Power Evolution Autopilot as a replacement . My BayStar system has the stiff hoses so is there a problem using the hoses that the unit came with or is it necessary to change the hoses?  Also were would I get the additional hoses needed that would go to the pump from the helm?

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