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Andre wallyandre

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Posts posted by Andre wallyandre

  1. Choosing the NAC-1 with the Precision 9 is an excellent advise; few hundreds more but well worthed.

    If you don't have a Lowrance compatible you can get a Elite FS or has suggested a Simrad GO that are less expensive but work very well.

    I did a short video showing the NAC1 in action using the Precision9


  2. 1 hour ago, lrg355 said:

    Navico is the parent company of Simrad, Lowrance and a few others.  Reasonable to assume the same technology is used within the family.

    Lowrance is compatible with the NAC-1 and Simrad is compatible with: NAC-1, NAC-2 and NAC-3

    NAC-1 is enough for 80% of the guys fishing inland lake.

  3. I decide to purchase a new use boat last winter; it's a Crestliner Sportfish 1950 SST (space saving transom) with only 72hrs on it. Motor is a 175 Verado and I add a Mercury Pro-Kicker 9.9

    All the electronics has been install on bus bar with all the wires well identified in the back and under the dash.

    In the back there is 2 Duracell 1000 AGM to feed 1 HDS Live 12" in the back, another one on the dash and another one at the bow when drifting for walleyes or jigging walleyes or lake trout. Electric motor is a Motor Guide Xi5 that is link with the Lowrance by NMEA 2000. The MG is fed by 2 Volthium ion battery; on one of the pic you will see a blue charger for those batteries; I can follow the state of charge with an app link to the charger. On the network I also have the Lowrance NAC-1 autopilot and the Mercury Vessel View Link that give me all the informations on the motor and something that I really like is to be able to use the troll control from the Lowrance screen; very useful when there is to much wind for the kicker. Naturally all units are also link by ethernet.

    To control the speed on the kicker I have a Trollmaster Pro3 (wifi).

    As for the transducers I'm running a Lowrance 3 in 1 , Airmar TM165, Lowrance Livesight and the new Active Target on the trolling motor ; there is a transducer for the Fish Hawk also.

    Downriggers are Scotty High Speed 2116

    I also install a Blue Sea automatic switch so if the main becomes weak it's sent the volts to the other battery.

    There is a ton of storage space on that boat.

    Bost sit on a nice Shoreland'R trailer with bunk and double axels.

    I could'n do all this by myself I owe a bigh thanks to my friend Gerry

    Hopefully the border are going to be open for the brown in spring.



    busbarr arr.jpg

    Filage arr.jpg

    HDS and motor.jpg

    Blue Sea switch.jpg

    Dash 12 and voltmeterjpg.jpg


    3 in 1 and TM 165.jpg


    Livesight and Fish Hawk.jpg

    under dash.jpg

    water and gas filter.jpg

    Center storage.jpg

    • Like 1
  4. If you want to stay with a transom mount there is the TM-165HW; 150-250khz with a beamwidth of 30deg and chirp ready. It's a 600 watts transducers and with the large cone it's perfect for those fish that swim in the water column; this is not the best transducer for structure fishing and fish on the bottom. It's affordable

    There is also the TM-185HW: Chirp-ready power of 1kW, frequency: 85-135 kHz

    TM mean: transom mount

    Naturally a 1Kw is much more $$ and it's a huge transducer.

  5. A short video to show you how extremely well the base Lowrance Nac-1 works.

    It's on a Crestliner Sportfish 1950 SST and a HST Live. I have 2 Live and 1 Carbon and I can control the NAC 1 from all 3.

    The NAC1 that I order this year is with the Precision 9

    Compatible with less expensive units like the new Lowrance Elite FS and the Simrad GO

    • Like 1
  6. 15 hours ago, dt5150 said:

    that's interesting.. i just finished this project today. My ap is working but it is super slow turning the outdrive. it does it in a bumpy motion, it isn't smooth. This is without the main running, but that's how I will be fishing as well. Using a kicker. My steering feel is light years better than it was with the old cable setup and the smart pilot, but if you are correct, I'll have to live without an ap when I'm fishing.. which is the only time I use it. I'll test the ap again tomorrow with the main running, see what it does.

    Looks to me that tou need more bleeding, I think you are still having air in the system 

  7. Power Assist steering = 
    Power steering pump that is operated by the engine power pump which moves the Mercruiser power cylinder (not the Teleflex cylinder) . Cylinder required HC5328 to work with a SeaStar Helm pump and lines. You will have a hydraulic power assist steering, meaning, a hydraulic helm pump (HH5271), two steering lines, that run down to a power assist cylinder (HC5328) which in turn screws into the Mercruiser power assist cylinder (Mercruiser part) that is run from the power pump and this Mercruiser cylinder is connected directly to the drive.

    Non power assist steering = 
    No power pump and/or power steering cylinder (no Mercruiser cylinder on board, no power pump) requires manual Hydraulic cylinder # HC5332. This means that all that you will have is a helm pump (at the steering wheel), two steering lines, going to a steering cylinder attached directly to the outdrive (HC5332).

    • Like 1
  8. If I can my idea on this. 
    If tou don't want to spent to much money and for the kind of fishing you do, there is a Lowrance or Simrad transducer that can fit youre needs. 
    It's the HST-DFSBL; it's a 50/200 khz that offer 29 deg. at 50 khz good to find fish between the bottom and top and 12geg. At 200 so very good for bottom fishing.

    With the Simrad or the Lowrance you can use both at the same time splitting your screen in has a example 3 panels: 1 for mapping, 1 for the 200 and the other using 50

    Part #: 000-0106-77

    Thee is also the same but with the downscan so you can have the function: Fish Reveal

    Part #: 000-12569-001

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