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cdelong

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Posts posted by cdelong

  1. I started out using way too heavy tackle for cranking and throwing spinnerbaits and lost a lot of fish. I went with some lighter tackle and my hook-up ratio is way better. You just need to set the hook- not rip it out of their mouth :)

    Curerently I'm using 17# Trilene XL with a nice soft 7' G-Loomis rod (8-17#, but it feels softer than that). In heavy stuff when I throw a spinner bait near weed edges I will occasionlly use XPS flouro cause they hit and run back into the pads and it seems to hold up better.

  2. Nice unit used maybe a half dozen times with a trolling motor transducer. Heres a link- http://store.humminbird.com/products...027359f3830203

    This unit has the original brand new hull mounted transducer and needs less than $25 worth of stuff from Humminbird to be complete..... I left the needed parts on my boat that I'm selling. New boat has a combo unit, so I don't need this anymore. It has everything else ready to install.

    It needs this- http://store.humminbird.com/products/322977/MBCC_M and this- http://store.humminbird.com/products/271653/MHX_XNTF

    Has original box and instructions for $200 shipped.

    Cell is the easiest contact- (585)734-4532

    Corey

  3. Eagle IntelliMap 500C GPS. Bought this unit new from Billy before he even used it. I used it for a few months on Lake Ontario and one year in FL on my bass boat. I bought a Flats boat that came with a GPS on it, or I'd keep it....no need for two units. It is in excellent condition.

    A Lowrance Great Lakes map card is included.

    $300 shipped.

    Easiest way to contact me is my cell- (585) 734-4532

  4. nabbed this little guy on a 6" Swim Senko.... unexpecedly of course. A pretty good fighter, but gave up as he got closer to the boat.

    Gator.jpg

    FL is great!! I've been customizing my own spinners with saltwater squid skirts with a trailer hook. Deadly combo down here!!

    Spinners.jpg

  5. the alternator will try to overcharge a "dying" battery. If your battery is on the way out that could likely be the cause. kinda mimics what someone above said with the loose battery cable.... alternator sees the battery as "needing" a charge so it attempts to put out more amperage.

    check your battery at rest 24 hours after you run the boat. if it is not at least 12.6v, you should consider getting a new battery.

  6. Same here YT.... in my boat every bass gets released. Maybe next time out when I hook 'em he'll be a pound larger.

    I got in a bit of a scuffle with one of my dad's friends when I told him he could not keep any of his catches in my boat while I was down in FL. He was none to happy releasing a few 4 pounders he caught, and downright disgusted when I released a fistfull of 5 pounders and a 6.5 pounder.

    I take a quick picture if the bass is worth a darn then release it.

  7. move the throttle in and out of gear a few times..... leave it in forward to get the unit back on. Grease all the linkages before you try to slide her back on. It helps if the lower unit is level so the universal does not get bound up while installing the unit.

    Your probably hung up on the o-ring seal.... grease the seal and the steel hub it slides over. Should go on like butter.

  8. I love my Hummingbird 777C2.... it's not a combo despite the "C" in it's name. Really nice 5" color display. Comes with a speed and temp sensor as well. Real good resolution on the screen- I think 480x640 pixels?? 500W of RMS does not hurt either :) You may find some for less, but not with the color display, great resolution and 500W for under $500.

    Good bet at under $500 mark. Check out BOE for free shipping.

    I have two of them. One sits at the console and the other is on the bow with a wide side transducer mounted on the trolling motor for looking on the bottom and out to both sides for bass.

  9. Maybe you should have the alternator looked at/tested out? It should easily keep your batteries charged up with electronics.

    I have three batteries- one for the riggers and two for cranking/running all my other gear.

    With a fresh charge on all three I run out on one cranking battery and back in on the other cranking battery. That leaves you with two fully charged cranking batteries when you get back in. The battery dedicated to the downriggers (2 Scotty's) will run an entire weekend without a charge. Get some nice Exide or Interstate Marine 900 CCA batteries with as much reserve as you can afford- should be about $80 a piece.

    I never run with the switch in the "ALL" position- you'll never know if one battery is getting weak or not. Always start off one battery- if it can't handle the load, it's time for a new one.

    My bass boat is another story..... 4 batteries and an onboard 3 bank charger. Two in series for the Minkota and two singles for starting/electronics. I can run all day on one battery with both fishfinders, the GPS and the baitwell and livewell pumps running all day.... all while trolling on the Minkota. I switch to #2 to start for the ride back, then to #1 to charge it back up on the way in.

  10. No need to strip the coated cable that goes through the Walker terminator. Just strip enough of the 6" tail to crimp in an eyelet (about 1/4"). That is your electrical contact. Use as much tape as you want..... I just used enough to cover the top eyelet on the probe leaving just a little exposed area for the clip to make contact.

    The thumb screw on the release adjusts the tension of the release arm.

    Thanks long and J.D

    The only releases that i've used were cannons attached to the ball. I'm new to this D.R do i have to strip the coated cable as it goes through the walker termanator and release, and the extra 6"does that need to be striped? Also is there need to use the rubber tape they give with the walker set up. Doesn't the extra cable just wrap around the screw and get tightend on the walker release? What is the porpose of the set screw?

    Sorry about the amount of questions just want to do it the right way and who better to ask than you people on this sight with all the expearance.....

    Thanks every one

    BILL

  11. This Walker terminator is a tad nicer. It has the release built right in. Billy V. showed me how to terminate it, so he gets the credit.

    zoom in on the last image in the first row of pics under the ad, or use the drop down menu and add the LR-Clincher combo to your cart..... http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templ ... hasJS=true

    Terminating is done just as in the above post- if you look closely you can see it. Leave about 6" of cable after you terminate it with the Walker method. Strip about 1/4" and put a crimp style eye connector on it. Drill out the rivet that holds the end on and replace it with a 10/32 screw and locknut and attach the cripmed eyelet there. You can add another regular Walker release above the termination as a stacker- without crimping it down. Whenever you want to use it as a stacker just jam a toothpick in the holes and secure it to the coated cable without damaging it.

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