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snyder

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Posts posted by snyder

  1. We fished last night from Starky point to south of Glenora. Weeds were spotty and spent a lot of time cleaning them off. Picked one rainbow on a rigger parked at 37' with spoon and the rest were lakers off dipseys with green flasher/ flys between 270-290. No lampreys or marks on any of them. Good luck if you go.

  2. I have an accudepth 27 that when fighting a fish the drag will back off. Anyone else have this issue? The drag works fine most of the time it just acts like you spun the drag adjuster. It's not really worth sending out for repair but I'd like to fix it myself if anyone has any ideas.

    Thanks,

    Chris

  3. You could spool your leader first then your wire and then your backer. Fill your spool and then check against your known distance. Then remove line from your backer until its close. When your happy with it use an empty spool on a drill and remove all the line. Then you have to spool it on another spool to get it so your backer will go on your reel first. It's a pain but it's the only way if you want it that close. Remember as you let line out the line counter becomes less accurate because the spool diameter is getting smaller.

  4. Have some extra stuff for sale -

    2 Eagle Claw Starfire downrigger rod combos $30 each.

    Beckman net - ..sold

    2 Eagle Claw Noodle spinning rods with Shakespeare reels $20 each - I don't know much about these. The rods look nice with cork handles, the reels are nothing special.

    4 - 8lb down rigger weights $10 each.

    Dolphin type stabilizer. Not sure what it fits, it has the mounting bolts. I can take measurements for you if needed. $15.

    Perko flush mount rod holder $15 used

    I am located in Corning NY or can ship.

    downrigger_rods.jpg

    Spinning_rods.jpg

    Beckman_net.jpg

    Dolphin_stabilizer.jpg

    downrigger_weights.jpg

  5. You can buy it right from Mertons. He has pricing online. It comes in two parts you mix together and pour in. Google Mertons fiberglass, he's a good guy and can help you with whatever you need and tell you how to use it.

  6. There are a couple of places to launch on the south end. One is at the village marina its right next to the new hotel, and the other is in the canal. to get to the canal turn left directly across from clute park, go over a couple speed bumps and youll see a big parking lot on the right with boat launch signs. Either launch will be fine for your boat. Village marina cost a few dollars and the canal is free until may I think.

  7. It really depends on how much you love your boat or are willing to spend. There is a video about fiberglass transom repair by a guy named Will Borden that is a pretty good how to. I replaced my transom in a 17' 1977 Grady White after watching the video and I also asked another LOU member when I was unsure. You will probably need 2 sheets of marine grade plywood $100 each, 3 Gallons of polyester resin $30 each and about $75 worth of stitchmat. A rubber backer pad with 36 grit sanding disks on a right 4-1/2" angle grinder works wonders to sand fiberglass. Mertons fiberglass out of Massachusetts is cheap and great company to deal with for supplies. If you tell them what your trying to do they can recommend what you need and how much. I ended up lifting the top off my boat which is pretty easy and saves you from trying to match the gelcoat on the exterior. Replacing the transom is not a terrible job but it is labor intensive(at least a couple days) and can often open up a can of worms. You may find that you have rotten stringers. I ended up replacing the transom,stringers and floor in mine.

  8. C&R,

    You can mix cabosil with your gelcoat and roll it on your floor will give a nice non-slip surface. Its cheap too...A gal of air dry gelcoat with wax added is probably around $60, then add tint to make the color you want and cabosil to thicken it up. A gallon of gelcoat goes a long way.

  9. Bristol Valley Hardwoods sells marine fir plywood. 1/2" is about $78 a sheet. http://www.bristolvalley.com/catalog.asp?prodid=296585 You would be safe just replacing it with whatever thickness is already there.

    Is your boat aluminum or fiberglass? If its aluminum than your stringers will be aluminum also. I doubt you'll need to deal with the flotation foam unless you have to do some stringer repair. A great place to buy fiberglass supplies is Mertons.com. Good Luck

  10. I took a look at Mcmaster-Carr. They would call it wire rope but I didnt see anything that has the same wire diameter and the same strength as normal 150# downrigger cable. This part no#3461T6 is close but is only 125#...I think the .027 is the right diameter though. It about .07cents a foot. 200ft = $14. You can buy 200ft of cable from big john for $17.25 I need to replace the 200# cable that came on my used riggers. Good luck post a report if you find a smoking deal somewhere.

    Chris

  11. I had a great weekend even with the slow fishing. Tripleduece used an interesting tactic getting my fishing partner loaded the night before the derby. We got out on the lake and my buddy is telling me how he puked a few hours ago. He said " Jeremy is aparently some kind of star on the internet or something?". I said what? "People kept stopping by introducing themselves and calling him triplesomething" my friend says. I laughed and said oh its people from LOU and thats his screen name. We all had a great time and met lots of nice people. :yes:

  12. I have an 82 Evinrude 70 horse. The other day while playing with my fishfinder I turned on the voltage indicator on the screen. It was showing me 11.9V while cruising. Today I hooked it up to the muffs and tested with my multimer. The voltage at the battery terminals started at 12.6 and rose to 15.7 while idling. It maintained 15.7 for three minutes or so before I shut it off. Most car alternators charge in the mid fourtines....Is my voltage regulator going or is it normal for it to charge so high?

    Thanks,

    Chris

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