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lrg355

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Posts posted by lrg355

  1. Don't need to get rid of the power assist. There is a cylinder available that goes in where the steering cable attaches. Assist pump and original cylinder stay in place. New cylinder piggy backs the existing one. Sea star has these listed. Only consideration is do you have the room for the cylinder to stick out. A couple of options available if it is tight. Best option is a "balanced system". That is a cylinder with double rods so the volume of hydraulic fluid moving is the same in both directions of turn. Volume on each side of the piston is the same. If you don't have room for piston rod to stick out the opposite side about 8 or 9 inches when extended, then use a single rod cylinder with the appropriate parts to be comparable with an "unbalanced" system.

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  2. Flame arrestor ? You probably meant intake restrictor plate. I am expecting delivery next week of a DB 9.9 XTW3.
    (25 inch shaft)with remote control included. No shipping charge, no tax.
    $2820 total. Need to buy shift and throttle cables, about 100 bucks and will be ready to go.



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  3. Just curious, the specs on the prop differ from the data on the porta boat website and the Suzuki official website. Porta bote spec is a 4 x 9 3/4 x 10. (4 blade 9 3/4 dia with 10 pitch). Suzuki is 4 blade x 10 dia x 5 pitch. That would make more sense.
    Which one came on your DF 9.9BT ?

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  4. As for the drag causing the relays to burn up, I don't believe that is a possible factor. If there were no drag and it was a direct connection from motor to cable pulley, that would make no difference on motor load until the end of the cable hit something. What would be a.problem would be unacceptable load caused by a tight.pulley or tight bearings or something similar.
    .

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  5. If I have a problem the first thing I usually do is check the motor under load. To do this you can hook the cable on something stationary and set the clutch to allow about a.medium load equivalent to about 10 or 15 lbs. Remove the motor cables from the board. Make some cable extensions to reach the battery, one should have an inline fuse of about 20 amp. Attach one motor lead to the battery. When touching the other lead to the other side of the battery, it should run. If it runs backward, ie down, stop quickly before a mess is made. If it runs in the up direction under a med load your motor is ok. Reversing the leads on the battery will make it run in the opposite direction.
    You can make a mess of the cable fast if not careful and quick in the down direction. If the motor is ok, it is probably the short stop board. If you keep the motor leads disconnected and you push the switch up, you should hear the relay click on each push up. Same thing for the down switch push, should hear a slight click if listening carefully. This is a good indication the switch is ok but the relay on the board is probably not. If you reattach the motor wires to the board and can hear the relay click but get no motion, relay contacts are probably burned. You can check for 12 vdc on the terminals for the motor leads with a meter and may see 12 volts when the switch is pushed up. This does not mean much because I have seen 12 v there on a meter with no load but under motor load the burnt relay contacts can't do the job.

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  6. When you push the up switch it turns on the coil in the relay. The coil is then "latched" on electronically keeping the retrieve relay contacts closed. The switch is momentary and returns to the neutral position when released. The up relay remains latched electronically until the cable clears the water and circuit break causes it to unlatch.
    To go down you must hold the switch as there is no electronic latching


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  7. The older mag 10 cannons used Omron relays that were rated for 5 ramps and they would not hold up well. The 5st and 10 stx use a much larger relay but they seem to malfunction prematurely. That website you referenced seems to have set up the new st/stx board to be used in the older Mag 10. Good news for older model Cannon owners.
    Most of the time guys just put in a switch and get rid of the board in older units when they go out.


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  8. Damn spell checker keeps on changing my words. Meant to say 150 qt. It would be good for a swim platform mount. I currently have a 150 Rubbermaid that I purchased at Sam's about 10 years ago for about the same $ and still is in good shape.
    The only problem with it is that it is difficult for one person to lift with anything inside because it is hard to open your arms enough to grab the molded in handles properly.

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