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lrg355

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Posts posted by lrg355

  1. Cannon rod holders on a 27 Sportcraft. They work well but the caps come off when removing a loaded rod. I put machine screws to hold the caps on. CANNON replaces 3 lost ones under warranty

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Lake Ontario United mobile app

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  2. I have 27 inboard with 9.9 mounted on the center. It is on a home made bracket since I have access to a machine shop. It is hooked to the rudder arm with a steering cable. Works great with the hydraulic steering and autopilot. There is a company that makes that kind of bracket but it costs $500+. I Can send the bracket drawings if interested.

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Lake Ontario United mobile app

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  3. I had a 115 Johnson (93) that appeared to stop pumping.  I pulled the pump and found it to be good.  It turned out to be the fitting thru the case at the "pee hole" was plugged.  It is smaller than the tube to it.  A lot of work for nothing.  After that , always poked a wire into it when it stopped.  All Johnny-Rude owners should be aware of this , especially running in weedy areas.

  4. Last year I installed a new (2014) Yamaha F70 LA (four stroke) on a Sea Nymph GLS175.  I like almost everything about the motor except two things. 1st, the idle below 900 rpm shakes a bit.  I am told this is normal for inline 4 Yammy's.   Since I use this mostly for slow trolling early spring browns, that is a nuisance.  Yamaha states that the Talon SDS props improve low idle characteristics and allow easing shifting into gear, which is my second complaint.   Has anyone had experience with the difference between the K type aluminum and the Talon SDS on their Yamaha 4 stroke.  Are Yamaha's claims accurate ?   I would like to know before spending the $$ on a new prop.

      I have the same type F70LA motor on a pontoon that is a 2013 and the act exactly the same so I assume it is inherent in the motor.

     

  5. Slimy grimy is an acid wash usually used on fglass. I have used it on al but dont let it on too long

    Mix with near boiling water and spray on with a yard type sprayer. Rubber gloves and scotchbrite while wet os the way to go

    Sent from my SM-G730V using Lake Ontario United mobile app

  6. From the AMSOIL website

    "OK . . .What does a 5W-30 do that an SAE 30 won't?

    When you see a W on a viscosity rating it means that this oil viscosity has been tested at a Colder temperature. The numbers without the W are all tested at 210° F or 100° C which is considered an approximation of engine operating temperature. In other words, a SAE 30 motor oil is the same viscosity as a 10w-30 or 5W-30 at 210° (100° C). The difference is when the viscosity is tested at a much colder temperature. For example, a 5W-30 motor oil performs like a SAE 5 motor oil would perform at the cold temperature specified, but still has the SAE 30 viscosity at 210° F (100° C) which is engine operating temperature. This allows the engine to get quick oil flow when it is started cold verses dry running until lubricant either warms up sufficiently or is finally forced through the engine oil system. The advantages of a low W viscosity number is obvious. The quicker the oil flows cold, the less dry running. Less dry running means much less engine wear

  7. Scratches help catch more fish

    Fish will always bit on lures from a pitiful boat

    They feel sorry for those fisherman

    As in the tv commercial, everyone knows that.

    Sent from my SM-G730V using Lake Ontario United mobile app

  8. I would be very interested in how you like it.  I have a plan ready to install the hydraulic steering and get the Lowrance hydraulic AP.  I already have a Gen II touch.  If I hear some positive feedback, it will be kickoff time.

  9. I have a heat exchanger. Block is closed cooling with auto type anti freeze in it. I also have a garden hose fitting on the starboard exhaust manifold which can be used to cool the engine in an emergency by hooking up your washdown pump if you loose your engine cooling on the water. I would not recommend winterizing with that fitting since you would close the seacock valve at the water intake and trap untreated water between the seacock and the the fitting being used. In fact, when I bought the boat (used) the seller said he winterized it by putting RV antifreeze into the hose fitting on the manifold. That was my first inboard at the time and I found cracks and leaking on the seacock valve body and the strainer body on the water intake. They were certainly from freezing of trapped water.

    If you are winterizing by putting the antifreeze in with the fake a lake, make sure the strainer (polycarbonate bowl) is filled with the pink liquid thoroughly or you will be buying a new one in the spring.

  10. look around, you can get the AP for as low as $900. I have a gen II touch and have a Yamaha 4 stroke integrated. No need for Command link or gauges. I would think the integration of the AP should be easy and good.

    I have been considering one myself and adding Hydraulic steering, approx. another $500

  11. The toilet plunger thing works well with a garden hose for running out of water.  For winterizing, I put a small sump pump in a 5 gal bucket with RV anti freeze  and pump it into the water intake with the plunger device.  (called fake a lake).  My block is closed cooling with a heat exchanger so the RV antifreeze goes thru all non closed cooling components and out the exhaust  Pink out the exhaust and you are good  Also use it to pump rv antifreeze into all other water intakes such as washdown, etc.  Never had a problem

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