lrg355

Start hunting season early and have some fun.

The controlling factor for the ease of installation is if there is enough room to "piggyback' the new hydraulic cylinder onto the existing I/O steering cylinder

Contacts in the relay are burnt.  Relay is under rated.  I will pick it up if Cannon won't replace

Noticeable in Mexico bay area

Ok, thank you

Would be glad to take all the "donor"boards off your hands to experiment with if you are in the Mexico bay area. I am on Sandy Pond and get up to Watertown regularly.

I have replaced about 6 of those boards for friends and myself. Some only 2 years old.  Tried to remove the relay on one but that was a mess, ruined the trace on the board.  Next time I am going to cut the top off the relay, rip out the contents, solder wires to the terminals of the relay internally,  put the wires on a relay socket.  Than a 30 amp relay in the socket and it will be easily replaceable.  I may need some bad boards so please save yours for future use.

In addition, I don't know why Cannon doesn't wise up and put  30  Or higher amp relays in there.  10 amp or so relays are destined to fail. The inrush current when that motor initially starts is typically 3 or 4 times that.  Cannon needs to re evaluate their engineering staff.

You have described it well.  Relay clicks but nothing happens.  Been there done that many times.  Change the short stop board.  Relay contacts are burned.  Don't waste anymore time on trying other solutions. Can't easily change the relay on the board.  It is epoxied in over the solder joints.  Boards are available from Cannon and some other places.

Slimey grimey on fiberglass, Purple Power Aluminum Brightener on Alum

Aluminum or fiberglass?   

I will take it.  Sent PM

Just trying to understand what you are saying.  Do you have a hydraulic steering cylinder in the steering tube on the Yamaha and the hydraulic pump is switched to the kicker with valving?

You can find a wiring diagram online

I think it goes from 600 to 1000 rpm in 50 rpm increments.  This is on my Sea Nymph GLS175.  I have a Motor guide XI5 for autopilot.  I believe when I have the XI5 in use and set at about 40% power for steering it actually slows the boat down a bit.  It will go down to 1.5mph with Xi5 in use and maybe 1.8 without XI5.

You can actually make one.  Same type switch as a Cannon downrigger.  Contacts up and down with spring loaded to center.  Three wires back to engine.  Connector is on port side. Only problem is connector is hard to find.  I soldered on pins that fit into female contacts securely and sealed it with silicone.  Been working for 9 seasons  on my F70LA with no problem. 

I run Rotella T6 in every 4 stroke engine I have that does not have a cataylic converter on it. Have had good luck on all.  Do not use it on anything with a catalytic converter since it is a diesel oil that has zinc in it.  Zinc will degrade the catalytic converter

On 8/18/2019 at 2:08 PM, ejb said:

thanks for all the replies and tips guys all are greatly appreciated. it looks like i have a few fastenal stores not far from me . i'll start the floor removal next month let the project begin. 

You can buy blind rivets online from Jay Cee Rivet.  It is a good idea to buy a closed end rivet with an aluminum mandril. This avoids dissimilar metals which can lead to electrolysis.  Most have a steel mandril.  Best to go all alum.  Jay Cee has them.  I also just picked up 9 yards of 74 in wide shark Nautolux at Defender Marine in Conn.  It was $25 a yard.  Everywhere else it seems to be $15.99 a ft.  So Defender is about 50% cheaper.  BUT, the catch is they wanted  over 200 to ship to Pa. I happened to be within 80 miles of there so I drove over to pick it up. 

Fyi, Azek is over twice as heavy as plywood.  Azek is 3.55 lbs per sq ft.  1/2 in plywood(actually 15/32) is about 1.6 lbs per sq ft.  That will make a difference

Tank is in excellent shape, it is polyethylene with no damage.  The rest of the fuel system is a mess.  Everything but the tank will be replaced and a filter/water separator will be installed. The tank will be thoroughly degreased, dried and reused.  

49 minutes ago, Rusty said:

My sea nymph gls had a tank that leaked all corroded on the bottom same thing had paper like material

 under the tank took mine out not repairable now have a six gallon plastic tank

Was the origional tank polyethylene or aluminum?  My 93 GLS175 has an alum tank.

Sounds just like the poly coated kraft paper reinforced VCI to prevent corrosion.  Makes sense, you learn something everyday.  Now to find some!

I'll check it out, thank you

It isn't thick enough to provide any cushioning.  I am starting to consider it may be a conductive sheet to reduce static around the fuel tank.  Except for the 8 inch section I pulled up, I may let it dry out and keep it there. 

Asked that question on Sea Nymph Boats forum on Facebook. A few people responded that they have the same thing on 80's they restored but didnt know its purpose.