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Posts posted by lrg355

  1. Minnkota I Pilot Terrova US2 (Universal Sonar Head), 36 volt  112 lb 72 in shaft (6ft) with quick release bracket, Minnkota 3 bank charger, 3 batteries and battery trays, Ram mount to stabilize head, all documentation and system circuit breaker.  System was used very little.  As pictures show, essentially new condition, not a scratch on it.  Is installed on a walk around cuddy. At 67 years old it is a bit much for me to deploy in 3 ft or higher waves.

    $2000 Firm



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  2. I had a good one made about 20 years ago for my sea nymph. Made from Pacific Blue Sunbrella. Never regretted it. About 10 years ago I put it inside the boat when storing the boat for the winter with a large truck cover with special frame. Laying inside the boat, the mice decided that it was a nice nesting material and chewed holes in it. I patched em and I am still using it today. Getting a bit dry rotted now and will need replacement soon. Moral of the story, store it in a sealed container when not in use.

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  3. If you are redoing the floor look into the Greenwood Industries Marine XL plywood or the Sherwood Redek XL. This is the stuff used on modern pontoon boats that is treated and is compatable with alum. Supposedly a lifetime warranty. Overtones and Gander Outdoors has it listed for about $102 for a 3/4 x 4ft x 8 1/2 sheet. Just by the sheet dimensions it appears to be targeted for marine use. Probably the stuff used by Smokercraft now. They also make Starcraft and Sylvan.
    I have a 2003 Smokercraft Ultima
    192 and a 2013 Sylvan Pontoon. Both have lifetime warrantys on their treated floors.

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  4. All the above comments are basically true. If you want to give it another try I would do the following:
    The bolt that ripped out was too far down creating a large "moment" that caused the failure.
    The bolts should be at least 3/ 8 dia with another one added about 3/4 from the top. 3 per side. The ss angle appears to be bending so I would recommend alum bar at least 1/4 thick and as wide as the ss angle half that touches the transom to be placed over each side before the bolts are placed thru. The bracket still is a bit light for the application but that is your call. This recommendation is from a mechanical engineer with 43 years of machine design and structural analysis experience.

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  5. My neighbor bought an 89 Sea Nymph 195 with a 100hp Merc.
    Nothing but problems. Wanted to troll with it, that was a joke. Was going to put on a kicker. I suggested that the 2 stroke merc was not to be relied upon to be 7 or so miles offshore. Always missing, hard to start, etc I suggested that he put on a new 4 stroke and forget about the kicker. He bought a new 90 Yamaha V Max four stroke. Fantastic motor, does everything and he never looked back.

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  6. The Cannons have a circuit breaker built in for motor current overload. The problem is that doesn't help if you have a short circuit between the power source (battery) and the downrigger circuit breaker. A 40 amp breaker installed on the positive line close to the battery is recommended. Usually less than a $10 item at most auto part stores. Fuses are ok but a resettable breaker is much more convenient.

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  7. Not the relay "coil", but the whole relay. That is the device shown in the picture. There are two of them on the PWB (printed wiring board) of the 5st and 10stx. They are $1.94 each online. The whole control board will cost $75 with shipping. Twice that if you have a service center do it. The contacts in the relay corrode and /or burn and become useless, than no function on the rigger.

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  8. I have previously owned a 2001 Sportcraft 272. I had a few of the sliding windows that had disintegrated gaskets. Could never find them anywhere. After I sold it I ran across a company that had the exact right thing. Try an outfit called Pompanette LLC. They specialize in marine window gaskets in seals.
    As for the kicker, i had a Yamaha T 9.9 XPA on it. The 25 in shaft worked great and it was quiet and smooth. Worked well up to 3 ft waves than it struggled after that. Burned almost no fuel. If I would do it today, I would go with the 15 hp merc with EFI. Low noise and low vibration makes a 5 hr trolling morning much more enjoyable. If I want to hear engine noise and vibration I will stand by the highway and wait for a Harley to go by.

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  9. Put in the new board and it worked fine. Will remove relays when I get home. May be able to solder in a socket so plug in relays can be used. Will check it all out.

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    Tried to de-solder the relays from the board. The 3 tabs from the contacts came out fine. The 2 tabs from the relay coil did not work so well. Their "trace" was on the opposite side of the board and did not completely release. The traces pulled away from the board and broke away staying on the relay solder tab. I was able to solder a small piece of wire on each of the remaining trace and I hope to save the board. Before I try to remove the second relay, I will get a hotter soldering iron and a different method to suck up the molten solder from the trace. I was using a small vacuum bulb and never had any luck with those. I need to get some of the solder wicking flat cable which works better. The relays are available from Digi-key for $1.94 each. They have cut down tabs to go into the holes on the board. It may be more appropriate to leave the relays intact and solder wires to the back side. There are relay sockets with wires available. The relay is a A21CSP from CIT Relay and Switch Co. An A21CSQ would have the full 1/4 tab to go in a socket. This would work well as long as the old relays continue to move even if the the contacts are burned.
    It would also be possible to cut the relay case apart , remove the contacts and coil to gain access to the soldered tabs. Then solder the wires from a socket to them. This may work better.
    Still working to improve solder removal and technique.20200804_160441.jpeg20200804_160531.jpeg

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