lrg355

Thanks to all for the encouraging words

Searching for realistic floor material for aluminum project boat.  Want to avoid plywood due to the time coating, covering , etc.  Came across an item called HercuLean by a company called Nomaco.

Sounds like the greatest thing since the invention of the wheel.  Has anybody used this or know anybody who has or has it on a boat they bought?  I get the impression from the website that they are not geared to selling to the general public but just to manufacturers. I have requested info and am attempting to find out if there are distributors that sell to the general public.

Website is      https://www.nomaco.com/product/herculean-structural-foam/    

Unfortunately this link that they provided responds with a "page not found" on their website.  Go to "Products" than click on "Herculean Structural Foam" in the drop down menu to get to the proper place.

Play the video.  Very interesting.

Nothing out of the ordinary around the transom screws and rivets. I plan to completely strip the inside than put it in the water overnite to check for leaks. Of course cant do that now. Will do it in the spring. Probably coat everything inside with gluvit and replace foam flotation while it is stripped

Since it doesn't have a motor the mounting holes in the transom are exposed. Poked and dug at the wood in the holes, it is in excellent shape. Except for some minor dock rash and faded areas, the paint is ok for now.  No dents anywhere.  Just complete interior rework is necessary.

Yes, hull is excellent but interior needs complete restoration. Just another project on my list. 

Just bought this Sea Nymph 195.  Hull is very nice with no signs of loose rivets or corrosion. Transom is very solid also. No motor so the outboard bolt holes are visible and the wood is excellent there. Couldn't pass it up for $900.  Interior needs a complete restoration so now the fun begins

I think they would be much nicer at Martha's Vineyard.

Interesting.  Perhaps not good contact or hidden corrosion on the steel screw terminals.  Does the battery tester just clamp on ?   If I't does try a ring terminal with a short piece of cable screwed tightly to  the threaded stud.  Clamp to  the cable for better contact. 

On 12/1/2022 at 2:32 PM, rolmops said:

The problem with happy troller aluminum ii that it is not just a clean break which can be welded. It is that the metal is weakened by bending and stretching lots of times. The aluminum gets to be (what I like to call) tired and weakened in the bend and/or break area. A large zigzag weld could possibly fix the problem, but the bending would just start happening on a different spot-quite possibly- on the outboard because very possibly, the happy troller is now stronger than the place where the bolts go through the outboard while the force pushing against the troller will remain the same. The happy troller is deliberately made fairly weak just because of that risk.

Your observance of the characteristics of aluminum is correct.  A quick discussion on metallurgy.  All metals have what is called an "elastic limit".  That means if you exceed that stress or bend the metal will not return.to a useable state.  Aluminum has additional peculiarities.  Metals such as steel can regularly be stressed near their elastic limit and return with no harm.  Aluminum cannot be stressed continuously near elastic limit , it will fail.  A few times occasionally is acceptable but not often.  Even if aluminum is stressed at 10 % of its limit it will eventually fail.  It  may be a considerable time but it will fail.  Things such as fuselage cracks on aircraft and cracks in an aluminum boat under the windshield area from pounding waves are examples of this.  It may take many years but will eventually happen.

On 11/28/2022 at 5:44 PM, spoonfed-1 said:

That sucks.  Freaken thieves. Was the add bogus and they hacked the owners account or did they contact you about the reels using a text about a legit add?

Thanks for the heads up and sorry to hear this.

I have run into situations like that.  Was looking for a hardtop for my Trophy 2052 and came across one online for sale.  They were copying and using the pictures from a reputable website.  Showed the boat with a hardtop on it in a marina and they said it was to soon be removed.  Of course it was a picture they got online.  I told them to send pictures of the hardtop removed from the boat and ready for shipment then we could discuss payment.  Of course, that turned into a negative response and confirmed my suspicions.  So, a quick check is to ask for more pictures of the item in a certain way.  If they cannot be provided, it is a scammer just using online pictures for an item they dont have.  Not a completely foolproof method but a good quick check.

One party thinks if you dont vote for them it's the end of democracy.  I always believed that democracy was when you could fire the politicians that are doing a TERRIBLE job with your vote.  Maybe I was wrong!.  We will see tomorrow! Smple as that.

I also liked the Advantage Marine bracket but my Trophy 2052 had a few things about the transom that complicated the matter.  The transom is vertical about half way down, than a step in and it continues on an angle.  That was a problem for the Advantage bracket plus I didnt need to go out so far.  Made my own from some 1/4 × 2 x 3 alum angle and some 3/8 alum plate. Bolted 2 pcs of angle on the 2 inch side to the transom below the step. Bolted other 2 pcs of angle to the 1st two, tilted a bit to get proper angle. Used a Panther SS bracket from there.  Pather has two types, light for about 100 lbs and heavier for up to about 230 lbs. Of course I used the 230.  Still need to ad two more bolts to the bottom of the angles after I bring my angle drill to camp.  Trim tabs and out drive in the way for std drill. Added 3/8 plate behind Panther plastic block and bolted them together to have something to bolt motor to.

Still a few items to take care of.

That's a little extreme!   I also have been using Stabil, fogging and running my boats dry for 50 years, never had a problem.  Now when you spend 15 to 20 K for a new 4 stroke EFI outboard, I'll go with the manufacturer's recommendation

If u have newer Cannon's, they draw very low current all the time for the short stop system.  This is happening all the time if they have power to the cable.  I have a terminal strip which all the riggers are supplied by with a circuit breaker and a shutoff switch which I use when not using the riggers. This is especially a consideration with an aluminum boat that is kept in the water.  Not good to have a few milliamps on the downrigger cable all the time.

Is that a 195?

Read an article about Yamaha recommended fogging for EFI outboards.  Bought the EFI engine storage and fogging oil.

That's where I get my magnesium also

4 hours ago, Andre wallyandre said:

I was just thinking about getting magnesium anodes specially that I only fish in lakes.

When you are buying let say  a Mercury outbard do they come with zinc or magnesium? I would assume zinc because a large part of their clients are in salt water.

Anodes from the factory are zinc.  You can find the magnesium anodes online.  Available in kits for most outboards and I/O's

Later post shows close up of anodes. Dont know why all pics weren't loaded on first post

Decided to compare the effectiveness of zinc vs magnesium anodes.  Used my 1993 Sea Nymph GLS 175 with a 2014 Yamaha F70LA.  Origional anodes are zinc and have been on the motor since new in 2014.  Boat stays in the water at my dock at Sandy Pond every season.  I put on one magnesium anode this spring before putting the boat in. 1 season  Magnesium is on the left,  9 season  zinc is on the right with no noticeable corrosion

easy to see why magnesium is recommended for fresh water.

Decided to compare the effectiveness of zinc vs magnesium anodes.  Used my 1993 Sea Nymph GLS 175 with a 2014 Yamaha F70LA.  Origional anodes are zinc and have been on the motor since new in 2014.  Boat stays in the water at my dock at Sandy Pond every season.  I put on one magnesium anode this spring before putting the boat in. 1 season  Magnesium is on the left,  9 season  zinc is on the right with no noticeable corrosion

easy to see why magnesium is recommended for fresh water.

Decided to compare the effectiveness of zinc vs magnesium anodes.  Used my 1993 Sea Nymph GLS 175 with a 2014 Yamaha F70LA.  Origional anodes are zinc and have been on the motor since new in 2014.  Boat stays in the water at my dock at Sandy Pond every season.  I put on one magnesium anode this spring before putting the boat in. 1 season  Magnesium is on the left,  9 season  zinc is on the right with no noticeable corrosion

easy to see why magnesium is recommended for fresh water.

As lake Erie is controlled by.nature it is normal.  Ontario level is controlled by the IJC (international Joint Commision) with the dam on the St Lawrence.  Commercial interests, POLITICS and other things get involved. Strange how all other Great Lakes are normal but Ontario is extremely low.  Strange how Ontario is either flooding severely or very low every year since the IJC took over about 7 years ago. Hmmm???

You can also launch at the state ramp on Sandy Pond at Stanley Drive.  Quick run out to 120 ft or so off the South dunes. Good place at this time of year.

A force on an angle such as a downrigger weight being pulled with "dropback" has two components.  A vertical component force pulling straight down and a horizontal force pulling straight back.  The vertical component will not change by angling the downriggers 45 degrees.  The horizontal component  however, will change at 45 degrees.  It will be .707 x the non angle or 90 degree position.  So, it will be a bit over 1/4 less horizontal pulling force.