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  • Gender
  • Location
    SouthEast PA
  • Interests
  • Home Port
    Keuka Lake
  • Boat Name
    The Reel McCoy

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  1. I did go to AGM two seasons ago and am very happy with them. I simply run the trolling motor off one and all the electronics and main starter off the other. Plug the two unit charger in when I am at the dock overnight. I get a full 8 hours out of my 55lb thrust trolling motor and my HS10's work just fine as I troll with my main motor on.
  2. might want to add a fishhawk.....
  3. 2007 Superhawk 1800 Crestliner. Be sure you have wide enough gunnels for any "trax" you want to put in. I run Cisco Systems and thru bolted the tracks for DR's, Triple trees, net holder, dispel holders, everything. Very thick Aluminum top side on this boat. I troll the Fingers on average @110 hours a year since I bought new. With no kicker the 115 just idles along perfectly. I put in an idle control switch and can get down to less the 1 mph up thru 3 mph with just idle control. Holds 33 gallons and stays dry with this cover. I use my trolling motor with nav to keep on course and the 115 power, as I fish alone mostly. I have been rolling around going fiberglass, you do rock a bit during windy days in ALU. Works for me, Dave
  4. just got my new battery pack and wiring replacement. The wiring harness was the issue. I guess the constant pulling off of the 3 prong connector each trip is not a very good idea. I think I will just unscrew the plastic head and allow air in and not take the wires off for now on. Dave
  5. Good Day, Anyone been through the canal lately with this low water level? Pulling the boat in a few weeks..... Any feedback appreciated. Dave
  6. Thanks Frogger...I did give the harness a good look but will check again. Looks like their service is only weekdays. Will call them Monday AM. Dave
  7. Good Day, You don't know how much you need it until its gone......... My x400 has stopped displaying down info. The surface temp and speed display fine. The down temp and speed or just dashes with the decimal point showing on both. I have tested the batteries and all are good. I have pulled the nose cover and touched across the two temp sensors....no flashing led at all. No led when in the water either. Was working fine last trip out. Anyone have any thoughts? Thanks, Dave
  8. I had both my mooring cover and sun top/canapy done by John, as recommended by Les....it is worth every penny. John is a great guy to work with as well. Second season for both and they are holding up great. I have sprayed just the stitching to date, but will begin to keep up the canvas shortly. It had a very strong waterproofing built into the fabric when new. Dave
  9. My fish hawk is down every trip......just save up and get what you need.
  10. +1 for Fishy - plus you have to get the early bite.......the tourist season is in big time......boat traffic starts before 9am.
  11. I mostly fish Fingers now, but I did spend 13 Summers fishing O....we always pulled the ball into the boat, then worked the set up...then eased it back in with cannon helpers. Never had an issue.
  12. You probably have two units. Exchange the boards to troubleshoot. Not a big deal, just have some silicone handy to seal them back up again. 30 minute job. If bad, Fish307 has always helped me with my parts. Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United
  13. Les, I am just getting back to the boat to work on this. More info: 1) Gear oil is coming out the port side drain hole, upon tilting motor down. Small drips 2) The amount seems to increase after motor sits overnight or for a few days 3) When vertical in water a very small amount of oil seems to bubble up. One small bubble every few seconds, then stops. 4) No oil appears to be coming out when running at idle 5) The front "vent" screw was loose about 1/8th of a turn. I tightened. Manuals call this the drain screw as well, though utilized only to receive the pressure when filling. If water had gotten in the vent/drain screw because it was loose, 1) Would this be the possible issue? 2) Is the drain hole above or below any of the internal engine seals? 3) I am thinking if the drain hole is part of the lower unit, then what I am seeing is just the displacement of the oil with the water that had gotten in before I tightened the vent screw. Meaning no new water is going in the lower unit and just changing the oil would be the fix. If the drain hole is above the seals and not part of the lower unit, then oil must be floating in water and after sitting for a bit, comes to the top and when the engine is tilted, coming out the drain hole. 4) I have probably tilted the motor up and down 20 times by now and still seeing oil drip out through the port side drain hole. ***updated 1-Pulled the drain plug for the lower unit, milky white grey with water in it 2- removed the two drain/vent plugs...one appears to have a deteriorated washer/seal, broke off in two parts when removed.The other was loosely fitted. 3- Will fill with new oil tomorrow and test at the ramp and see what happens Thanks for any further thoughts, Dave
  14. Les, I am thinking your first option above may be the cause. I have not had a chance to drain the lower unit to verify milky oil, but, I did find a loose vent hole screw. I was able to turn it tighter by about 1/8 of a turn. I am thinking water may have gotten in. It would make sense that if water got in the lower unit vent hole, the oil would float to the top, then out the drain hole when tilted up. It seems to drip more oil after the motor is sitting in the up position over night. Dave
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