Netbender

Good Day, I am looking into the new Lund Fisherman boats. One spec I can not seem to find is the draft of this boat. Any aluminum boat for that matter. 

Does anyone know what the minimum amount of water required to float the Fisherman is? I don't want to open a debate on draft vs min water, not my intent. I have a dock that is in a shallow bay in the Fingers, and need to know if this hull will make it on my lift. I also have looked at the Crestliner 2050 Authority. Any info on that boat would also be welcome. Currently my Crestliner Superhawk 1800 has no issues. I have contacted several dealerships and have gotten different answers from each. I would think Lund manufacturing/Engineering would have some specs on this. I can appreciate that motor weight, equipment, people on board all add up, but I would hope a general answer with specific criteria is out there some place. 

Thanks in advance for any feedback,

Dave

Thanks......that is a large event.....good for them.

Hoping to get in this year! Any idea of how many entries where in the last derby? Looks like a good time for great causes.

Dave

I have used Cisco Systems for years, they do everything you need. They do require a hex wrench. No big deal. Have several on board all ready. Cisco will fit your track. 

I have the screen set at 75' for SI for best detail.

Just ordered a Humminbird Helix 7 SI DI with nav maps. Anyone have any experience running this unit on Cayuga and if so thoughts? I struggled with the decision on whether side imaging would be worth it while trolling for Lakers and salmon I've always just used a standard Lowrance fish finder but decided to splurge.  If not SI what about DI?Figured it would come in handy on Oneida for perch and walleye.  Also have you used it for marking waypoints to start your next trolling route and is it easy to scroll back between maps and side imaging?  I really probably should have checked one out before purchase..........

++! Mr Mann is the best in the business. 

+1 for Fishy Business - Gerry will hook you up. He even answers his phone!!

Dave

I did go to AGM two seasons ago and am very happy with them. I simply run the trolling motor off one and all the electronics and main starter off the other. Plug the two unit charger in when I am at the dock overnight. I get a full 8 hours out of my 55lb thrust trolling motor and my HS10's work just fine as I troll with my main motor on. 

might want to add a fishhawk.....

2007 Superhawk 1800 Crestliner. Be sure you have wide enough gunnels for any "trax" you want to put in. I run Cisco Systems and thru bolted the tracks for DR's, Triple trees, net holder, dispel holders, everything. Very thick Aluminum top side on this boat. I troll the Fingers on average @110 hours a year since I bought new. With no kicker the 115 just idles along perfectly. I put in an idle control switch and can get down to less the 1 mph up thru 3 mph with just idle control. Holds 33 gallons and stays dry with this cover. I use my trolling motor with nav to keep on course and the 115 power, as I fish alone mostly. I have been rolling around going fiberglass, you do rock a bit during windy days in ALU. 

Works for me, 

Dave

just got my new battery pack and wiring replacement. The wiring harness was the issue. I guess the constant pulling off of the 3 prong connector each trip is not a very good idea. I think I will just unscrew the plastic head and allow air in and not take the wires off for now on.

Dave

Good Day, 

Anyone been through the canal lately with this low water level? Pulling the boat in a few weeks..... 

Any feedback appreciated.

Dave

John is the best.

Thanks Frogger...I did give the harness a good look but will check again. Looks like their service is only weekdays. Will call them Monday AM. 

Dave

Good Day, 

You don't know how much you need it until its gone.........

My x400 has stopped displaying down info. The surface temp and speed display fine. The down temp and speed or just dashes with the decimal point showing on both. I have tested the batteries and all are good. I have pulled the nose cover and touched across the two temp sensors....no flashing led at all. No led when in the water either. Was working fine last trip out. 

Anyone have any thoughts? 

Thanks, Dave

I had both my mooring cover and sun top/canapy done by John, as recommended by Les....it is worth every penny. John is a great guy to work with as well. Second season for both and they are holding up great. I have sprayed just the stitching to date, but will begin to keep up the canvas shortly. It had a very strong waterproofing built into the fabric when new. 

Dave

My fish hawk  is down every trip......just save up and get what you need. 

+1 for Fishy - plus you have to get the early bite.......the tourist season is in big time......boat traffic starts before 9am.

I mostly fish Fingers now, but I did spend 13 Summers fishing O....we always pulled the ball into the boat, then worked the set up...then eased it back in with cannon helpers. Never had an issue. 

You probably have two units. Exchange the boards to troubleshoot. Not a big deal, just have some silicone handy to seal them back up again. 30 minute job. If bad, Fish307 has always helped me with my parts.


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Les, 

I am just getting back to the boat to work on this. More info:

1) Gear oil is coming out the port side drain hole, upon tilting motor down. Small drips

2) The amount seems to increase after motor sits overnight or for a few days

3) When vertical in water a very small amount of oil seems to bubble up. One small bubble every few seconds, then stops. 

4) No oil appears to be coming out when running at idle

5) The front "vent" screw was loose about  1/8th of a turn. I tightened. Manuals call this the drain screw as well, though utilized only to receive the pressure when filling.

If water had gotten in the vent/drain screw because it was loose,

1) Would this be the possible issue? 

2) Is the drain hole above or below any of the internal engine seals?

3) I am thinking if the drain hole is part of the lower unit, then what I am seeing is just the displacement of the oil with the water that had gotten in before I tightened the vent screw. Meaning no new water is going in the lower unit and just changing the oil would be the fix. If the drain hole is above the seals and not part of the lower unit, then oil must be floating in water and after sitting for a bit, comes to the top and when the engine is tilted, coming out the drain hole. 

4) I have probably tilted the motor up and down 20 times by now and still seeing oil drip out through the port side drain hole. 

***updated

1-Pulled the drain plug for the lower unit, milky white grey with water in it

2- removed the two drain/vent plugs...one appears to have a deteriorated washer/seal, broke off in two parts when removed.The other was loosely fitted.

3- Will fill with new oil tomorrow and test at the ramp and see what happens

Thanks for any further thoughts,

Dave

Les, I am thinking your first option above may be the cause. I have not had a chance to drain the lower unit to verify milky oil, but, I did find a loose vent hole screw. I was able to turn it tighter by about 1/8 of a turn. I am thinking water may have gotten in. It would make sense that if water got in the lower unit vent hole, the oil would float to the top, then out the drain hole when tilted up. It seems to drip more oil after the motor is sitting in the up position over night. 

Dave

I have 2 older electric mag 10 on my boat. The boat is new to me with these downriggers. I've read alot about a boat being what is called Hot. Producing a electrical current that maybe higher than what would attract fish. I haven't tested my cables to see if there is a issue but if there is how do I remidy the problem. Is it better to just switch to braid on the riggers or is there a way to ground the cable somehow to the boat. The boat is fiberglass and I feel my catch ratio between my divers and my riggers is really off ballance. Looking for some fine tuning advice. I use 12 lbd standard lead weights with no insulation on the weights them selves. I've also read that the electrical current can scare fish for hundeads of feet. So if cables are hot would changing to the braid even make a difference. I'm probably looking deeper in to something that is more coincidental than anything just trying to get peace of mind. Thanks
 
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Brokeoff, what lb balls are you using on the cannon?