Jump to content

Fat Trout

Members
  • Posts

    612
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Fat Trout

  1. 9 minutes ago, Gill-T said:

    Either plankton or Calcium.  The water would need to be sampled to tell for sure but the veils appear to have a green cast not white. There has been lots of  upwellings this year. I can’t remember a year when I could fish as high in the water column during the heat of summer so it might be fueling calcium from marl off the bottom but we also have had warm weather so maybe plankton?  Calling Dr Weidel …….calling Dr Weidel….

    Water had a very green cast to it.  It was sunny so you can tell quite a bit more.  You can get that with passing sun and clouds but the noticeable difference is when you send a downrigger ball down and you loose it in < 10 feet.   

  2. On 8/14/2022 at 3:05 PM, Gill-T said:

    Proof the Lake Ontario IS NOT in decline. Notice whiting event. 
     

     

    4AD6F643-30EB-41BB-BE6F-AF341051418C.jpeg

    Thats interesting.  I was fishing last weekend off of the south dunes (north of the salmon river).  Thats right where that plume seems to start  to the right.  I fished pre-zebra mussels and of course after.  Pre zebra was chalky water...after we all know....hyper clear.  Last weekend I was in 150 ft of water which east is a good 4 to 5 miles out.  Water was chalky as hell.  I couldn't place the reason but I recognized it.   It changes color patterns etc.   I went west 10 miles toward oswego the next day and zebra clear like usual.  I'm out of mexico.

  3. 13 hours ago, stinger said:

    I have the first generation Smart Troll and it works with intermittent success. It is now obsolete and I'm looking for any info on how the Smart Troll II is working. My unit leaves a lot to be desired.  As far as how I hooked the probes to a downrigger I clip it on the main cable just above the ball clincher. I've run them on dipsey's and leadcore also. On the dip I clip it through the eye of the swivel from the wire and the leadcore I have a small inline swivel on the fluorocarbon  leader about 10' down from the leadcore and about another 20' of leader to the lure. I hook the probe through the eye of the fluro leader.

    I'll second the first gen being "intermittent success".   I switched boats and it wasn't working and realized my kicker motor plume was messing it up so I moved the transducer and haven't tried it again yet.  I may this weekend.  The app has always been a pain, had to reload a bunch of times to get it to work....not somethign I want to do on the boat when I'd rather be paying attention to so much more, especially if its a little bumpy.  Hoping it just works this next time.   I use it on slide divers with an OR-16 clip on the line ahead of the slide diver.  Its a bit of a pain to unclip at times if I'm running solo

  4. 4 hours ago, zimm298 said:
    Fat Trout, first of all there's NEVER been a striper problem in the Columbia River Basin. As for your....laughable comment about the stocked salmon, trout, and smallmouth? Get real. There are so many lakes across the country that have stripers added to the environment, and there are not any, I repeat ANY issues with them being this voracious fish as you're trying to imply. So, I really don't care about this insane support of fish that can't sustain themselves. It's pathetic. How about the main concern is fish that are viable? Would benefit the environment? Add exponentially more revenue for the fishery?  You're speaking without any true education on this fish. It shows. Oh,, and as for the cormorants? They're a pain in the ass. Here and on salt water. You've got a bigger problem with them than stripers. But, I digress....

    [emoji1787] i dont give a crap about the atlantics and feel free to take your fully vetted new predator idea to the DEC. Im sure they'll get right on that for ya.   Oh and laughable is the fact that this time last year you were on here asking for tips, pointers and on the water help for how to run downriggers and the "whole gamut" as you were tired of "fumbling around".   Respectable.....but lets ease off a bit on pushing fisheries management so abrasively.  Dare I say, thats a bit laughable.   I don't need to be right and am wrong plenty of times but I have 35 years in this fishery so you can kiss my bass.  

    Sent from my SM-G990U using Lake Ontario United mobile app
     

  5. I saw stripers! Also someone calling them...as I'm laughing...a warm water species!! Oh.....too funny..... Drop the Atlantics. Go for viability, 
    So by viability you mean eat the stocked trout, salmon and smallmouth worse than the cormorants can possibly do? I won't argue on the landlocks being worth it but i have places for stripers and they are not where i purposely look for trout and salmon. If i recall right stripers are considered something of a problem in the Columbia river basin. I might be wrong...not back checking because i dont care but i like my great lakes the way they were/ are and dont need another variable to mess with it.

    Sent from my SM-G990U using Lake Ontario United mobile app

  6. 1 hour ago, MrKato said:

    Thanks to everyone for your replies.  Will give the 30 pound mono a try and hope that improves things or at least reduces the buildup

    I mentioned it in another post but if you have it, try spraying reel magic on the line too.   The stuff works great for extending casts with light line for spinning applications.  It adds a slickness to the line which I think would help.  The slickness is why the blood run flea line works (aside from diameter of 30# too)

     

    https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/blakemore-real-magic-lubricant?ds_e=MICROSOFT&ds_c=BPS|Shopping|Standard|Fishing|General|NAud|TopPerf|NMT&msclkid=06f4b2e66f2b1aa8a031d02fd98e2bb8&gclid=06f4b2e66f2b1aa8a031d02fd98e2bb8&gclsrc=3p.ds

     

  7. I haven't tried it because my setup works good enough but I'll bet spraying your line with reel magic would help. I use it for light line spinning reel casting to reduce line memory and increase distance.   Its the slickness that you are looking for to keep the little bastards off.  That is in part what the old flea flicker (and Blood run) lines had going for them along with overall diameter.  

    • Like 1
  8. 18 minutes ago, Bad Habit said:

    Fat Trout, where are you getting Cortland Flea Flicker. We used to use that years ago and it worked great but haven't been able to find it in MANY years. I would love to get my hands on it again.  I found an old thread in the LOU that said they stopped manufacturing it in 2014

     

     

    I probably should have mentioned that.  I got lucky in 2015 or 16 and found a 3600 yd spool on closeout and bought it immediately having used it for years and finding out it was discontinued.   I have been living off of it since.....being heavy I don't change it off until removing worn sections with nicks take a reel spool low.  It will be a sad day when its gone (soon) and I'll probably move to 30# blood run at that point.  Flea flicker wasn't a great line for a # of reasons but serves its purpose and I understand the 30# blood run is pretty decent too.  

  9. It has been a long time since fleas came on the scene.   17 and 20# mainlines don't work (mid june till early august) at least for downriggers.  Perhaps 20# bloodrun does better, I'm not sure.  i have been running 30 # flea flicker (cortland) for years.  On my brown rods(downrigger) I have a segment of that and 10# (whatever) after the part that hits the rigger clip.  I have had no real problems for years.  I'm sure 30# anything would do the same.  I run braid divers and also have no real problems.  Yes I get some fleas on all but you can either reel through it or slap your rod tip to diminish.  I'm just adding my comment to say it has been years (decades) since 17# and even 20# regular mono became a problem on downriggers.  It is what it is. Late June through early august are always this issue.  When its at its worst you have to check lines a little more often.  30 min at worst for me and thats really more of a "hey let my try something else" anyway.  No offense to those asking....its just kind of a reality. I don't even think of it anymore since I adapted accordingly.  

  10. A friend of mine had a leak he couldn't find on a 17' spectrum.  It ended up being a crack in the hull that was mostly obscured by the bunk. Pressure from the bunk pushed along a hull stringer over time and created a crack.   The way it sat on the trailer it didn't really leak when he filled the hull with water (not the same pressure inside to out as when it was floating and outside to in.    

  11. 49 minutes ago, Prof T said:

    24 volt terrova w/ i pilot is pretty standard. 36v means 3 batteries, take up lots of space.

    yes.  This is what I have.  24 volt terrova.  72" shaft length....its worth the extra length for trolling in some moderate chop so that you don't cavitate when the bow goes up and down in the waves.  80lb thrust.  I ran it on my Starweld 18 and now on my Fishmaster 196.  works just dandy and plenty of run time. 

     

    The autopilot can work nicely for bass too.  I had a smaller I pilot on my little boat that I had for a while.  it lets you follow a course along a weed edge or whatever or out in the lake over rock piles you can use spot lock etc. 

  12. 6 hours ago, paprman said:

    Another thing to keep in mind is the 2 modes of autopilot, legacy and advanced autopilot. They are different. For trolling I use the legacy mode. With the advanced mode the motor tries to correct for cross wind and current which can slow the boat way down. The legacy mode will just keep going towards a given heading. 

    Agreed on this.  I never use the "advanced" when trolling. I also agree on your minimum of 4.    I have a terrova 80 (24v) that I ran on an 18 ft starweld.  Now on a Fishmaster 196.  I get plenty of time running I run 4 to 5.5...perhaps 6....sure if its flat I can easily get away with 3.    9.9 kicker generally kept straight with perhaps slight main steering tweaks to help if there is a cross wind.   I have never run out of battery provided I start with a full charge.  

  13. 10 hours ago, HB2 said:

    I remember those 200+ bass days out of Fair Haven.  

     

    My hand tied  Brown or Black Purple 1/8 oz bucktails we're all you needed . 

     

    How things change . 

    yeah.  Mexico Bay....memories.   I get my bass fix every year but its not as stupid as it was.  Gobies made for bigger ones, reality made for harder work to find.

  14. I had 4 seasons on mine and that happened (x4d probe).  I didn't ask for anything but perhaps should have inquired.  Full last season without issue.  That faulty probe is my backup as speed is still my #1 consideration. I hope the new one lasts.   I did notice that on that probe which is a clear and fully encapsulated probe that I could see something "off" with the old probe compared to the new probe on a few connections...not a burn but a cloudy funk on some internal connections.   Way back when my first fishhawk had a black probe, not clear.  speed and temp only on the pre X4 .....used it forever. Here's to hoping the current one lasts longer than 4 years.   PS I treat my Fishhawk probe better than my wife.  

    • Like 1
  15. 1 hour ago, jth21usa said:

    Quick 2 part question:

     

    1- does the screen work if the probe isn’t in the water?

    2- if my screen isn’t working can I still use the Bluetooth app?

     

    Justin

    my screen works without the probe in the water.  Granted you won't get data on the probe info only on the temp / speed wheel from the transducer.  While I have used the blue tooth with my phone I have not looked at failure modes. The blue tooth should work even if the LCD screen is out but thats going to be really dependent on what the problem is as to why the screen is out.  Not a great answer but failure modes are not universal.  

  16. On 4/7/2022 at 6:36 AM, arcatchman said:

    Thanks for reaching out, I actually purchased brand new. I pick up next week! 

    I have a 2018 I picked up late 2018.   great boat.  I keep getting comments mine looks like new. Take care of it and it will.  An 18' x 24' tarp goes over the top perfectly and breaths really well like that.   I made a set of 2x4 ridge frame beams from bow to high point at the windshield and down to the transom for winter.  Dry and out of the sun when stored is key for these boats.  

     

    Good luck!

  17. 3 hours ago, Kevin J Legg said:

    You think gobies give them orange color?

    Fishing the browns for as long as I have and way before gobies, it wasn't until had browns with bellies full of gobies that I got such a vivid orange meat.   Browns always had a more orange tint but way more bright since the gobies.   except for ones that were in the steams in the fall or spring.  Those were extremely pale, almost grey and usually were on a fish that had more river colors than bright shiny lake colors.

  18. 4 hours ago, Gill-T said:

    After taking a close look at all my guides on my wire rods in good light and magnifying glasses, I was shocked at the deep grooves present. I have not lost any gear due to wire failure but it looked like it could easily could happen at any time. For most of the grooves in the guides I was able use a dremmel tool and a pointed stone attachment to smooth out most of the grooves but some of the inserts did not survive the deep cuts present and the vibration from the grinding. Looks like I am getting into rod repair. 

    I don't know what they are called but on my wire rods I have removed the first guide and replaced with the one that has the large spring and a plastic rod interface....see my photo.  I have never had one have grooves form in them. I wish I could find a link.  Local shops seem to have them.  Its an easy install.  careful use of a lighter and a needle nose pliers removes the old guide less is more on the heat.....too much heat and the rod blank goes wrong.   Not the end....a careful use of a hack saw with fine blade or better a razor knife lets you break a new clean end..  Anything from the rod tip specific stick you can heat and use for "glue"....kind of like hot glue gun stuff works to also plane jane 2 part epoxy.  replacing guides isn't super hard but you need some kind of slow turning motor for even epoxy. Like has been implied, I use low cost rods for that service. yeah I had a rods guides get eaten away too.  Roller rods obviously can work fine but expensive.  I have built a lot of rods.  PM me if you want any help on wrapping guides.  It seems hard but its really not that hard.  

     

    image.thumb.png.0331187fb6ab05c1e8a0b19e03ae8737.png

×
×
  • Create New...