Knotlost

My your getting a varied amount of advice, all would work in particular instance. A lot of you question is based on the unknown. What is the boat made from steel or alum?  What size is it? 

Most of the time on an alum boat, find your rivet first... McMasters carr is a good place. get a rivet that is sealed, that is where the mandrell go through its closed, so when its installed it has a mechanical seal. Get the right size, bigger rather than smaller, and not ridiculously to long.  Drill the old bad rivet out from the outside, then clean up the out side of the hull real good normally corrosion is why the last one failed. You of course got the same metal type, alum boat with alum rivet etc... then 5200 the rivet good and slide it in and tighten it. If you don't have a big rivet gun your going to need one.  Then clean up the 5200 and fill the hole with it and your done. 

As said before, once you use the Saltist, its going to wreck you. The drags are big, and last, the gear ratio is great. I totally agree you cant have to fast of ratio. I can't imagine how it can be a detriment to just crank slower if you want, but when pulling in a trip dipsy you love it.

You need to do a simple compression check. That will tell you a lot very quick and cheap. I'm betting you have a cyl that's broke rings out.

Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United mobile app

PKomrowski

WOW thats a monster, great job.

It will not be a problem for you, remember keep good life jackets on board (seriously) and know how to put them on. You can float around for days now and still survive   But if you watch the weather you will never need them. Bad weather doesn't sneak up on us any more if we are just a little careful. 

really get some swivels there are some nice small ones that work perfect, the wire is hard on any knot, swivels are the perfect answer. 

You have either a bad connection to the "puck" or internal corrosion that will toast the unit... 

I had one same way.

PK

What every you buy if your buying new or used is the roof. Thats what ruins them, they go bad and wreck things, lots of things. If you buy used then really inspect it for signs of past leaks.  They are far worse than boats as far as loosing money. On new prices you get what you pay for, the better ones cost more, they all cost way way to much.  A used one isn't so bad as the origional owner takes a big hit $ but they simply dont last long because they are all built cheap. 

A well built trailer is like saying a car is an investment... )-:

Good luck

I say i would rather have a cheaper rod, and replace it than an expensive rod.

The reason being, the odds of it getting broken smashed dropped solen is greater than it just wearing out.  I run hartland on everything, good price and its got the action that I like. If a customer stomps on it its not a huge bill.

I have used lots of high dollar poles and honestly it dont do anything for me personally, its all about the fish. 

No chain is there for weight, you need chain to cause an anchor to function correctly. Without chain your boat will lift the anchor because of the action of the boat.

How much chain depends on size of anchor, rope, length of rope, boat, color of boat, and how mean your dad was to you growing up. Big debates on it anyway, but the rule that can be argued with is there is never to much chain. The length of chain rule for casual lake fishermen can be half the length of your boat, and that will work.

Remember these rule are for anchoring and not moving, in any weather, sleeping etc, not jig fishing where you don't care.

I was in 380 FOW Down 80 with a rigger and the ball and fishhawk hit something, drew off a few feet of rigger cable and snap!

Bran new rigger cable, and it was a bran new first day used probe for the fish hawk by the way, what did that hit?

Nothing on the finder either.

Now let me say it hit something, I have lost enough by catching bottom to know what its like (hence the new fish hawk), and I also know that when you power on the scottys they can snap break the cable with big weights, it was none of that.

The rigger arm went down hard, moving boat and the drag on the rigger didn't have much of a chance to let out even (maby 2 feet let out) and  it snapped. The cable were it was broke looked like it was cut with clippers and the break was higher than the beads on the wire as they were gone as well.

I think the navy has a sub out there

chances are you will not have to remove rivets on a alum boat to remove stern, but it will involve everything else, in the 3 I have done the toughest part it the rail above the stern. If your looking for some one to do it for you PM me and we can talk.

PK

Practice swearing a lot first. There is a learning curve that's frusterating

Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United mobile app

PKomrowski

I got out and it was great to be back on the water, got a bunch of browns and had a good time...

These are most all myths, they are from the days when synthetics were new. Call the tec support at amsoil and you will talk to an expert that can really help you. There are some places where there is a degree of difference but most of the time its simple ignorance, as a synthetic is not what most people think it is.

It all depends on the swim platform. I have seen some real chincy platforms you wouldn't dare to, others like the ones shown here are real nice. so it depends.

Like others said they are all good, I got an Ion and wow thats about all i can say its awsome. I love the no maintenance aspect of it.

Do you guys not see a problem with this?  You think if a enforcement officer wants to fine you he can find something? Your crazy if you don't.

I'm not for spreading invasive but the most invasive species we have are government officials living off working tax payers!  Who gets to define reasonable? This is horrible when they have the right to fine and tax you now for it.

That's my opinion. I could go on, but in the long run this will make the water systems only for the elite.

Hey thats great, thanks for sharing the trip!

ouch OMC out-drive and small motor. not ideal for that one. at least you can replace the lower unit with an alfa from sterndrive engineering if you wanted it.

You can fix everything and fix it right, then slide the lower to the upper and lip over the soft pipe, you will get flow, that works at low speed, but will cook your motor at high speeds.  You can find the GPM of your motor and rpm that it should be sending to the motor on the internet, with a cold motor do the check and see if its putting the right amount of water in the bucket.

How compulsive are you? If extreme get a harbor freight hand held mini or spot , sand blaster and fill it with baking soda go to town, rinse ,dry immediately, and grease.

You need a switch that has " off, on, auto" on it for a correct hookup. Your pump needs a hot wire to the float but don't forget all the proper fusing as well!

Xacltly what rollmops said when you get it out your going to find bad rubber, that really needs to be changed for ethanol proof stuff as well. And if you have any corrosion on the tank ( I'm betting you will) paint it with glufex and it will give you your lifetime of service.

Yes that constitutes a huge concern.