Jump to content

Knotlost

Professional
  • Posts

    324
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Knotlost

  1. Go through the easy checks, Gas, gas and gas, ethanol is a killer try to only buy non-ethanol and always use something like starbright fuel conditioner even with good fuel.  If you have bad gas in the bowl of your carb just changing your filter will not do it. You have to KNOW from the carb back you have good fuel.

  2. I took my son in law out and he got so sick he turned GREEN, I mean not just a tint, it was freakish green, I'm talking green dolphin green.

     

    I didn't know it could happen but doc said it was a reaction in the blood from the sea sickness (something to do with copper levels?) and can hurt the organs! wow that was weird, turned into a leprechaun right in front of me!

     

    I have never seen anything like that, and have lots of people sick on my boat, but that was different. It shows you have to be careful its not all just a case of "no big deal" it can be a big deal very big.  

     

    I thought it may be cool if he stayed that color but he didn't think that was funny, neither did my daughter, but he returned to his pale self in time...

  3. I'm needing a nice landing net, regardless of price, I would like one that will not be a magnet to every barbed hook in my 3 treble hooks on my stick baits. Some how I can get 8 out of 9 barbs in my net, and that's only because the other one is in the fish! 

     

    I'm sick of it, I need a hook-less long handled net for salmon, strong handle, what have you found was good and what was bad. 

     

    Thanks for the input....

  4. Of course weld is the best answer, but your way of thinking about things come into play as well.

     

    The way to look at it is how perfect dose it need to be for you to be happy.

     

    Some boat owners are good with gluvix or epoxy, some want it perfect and need a tig, grind sand and paint.  Others are in the middle, I weld but then depending on where it is I don't often grind sand and paint.  The nice thing about epoxy is cheap and easy, weld is more permanent, but then you have to make sure everything on the other side of welding point is clear (especially foam) and will not get heat damage, and if you don't weld find one who will not charge you a-lot.

     

    PM me with your location maybe i can help you out.

  5. I like the size of the saltiest reels drag, they are big, one of the biggest, that's what I want, they are in my opinion are great. I sent a bunch of reels to a pro (older penn reels) to have the drags rebuilt and he told me the saltiest was one of the greats on the inside.

     

    Anything will work for a while, but as far as lasting, they size of the surface bearing portion of the drag washer is important, the bigger the better, there is no way a washer with .5 inches of surface will work as good or as long as a washer that has 1.5 square inches of face. Some of the others have big ones as well, that's what to look for.

     

    Wire and lead take a  long time to reel in, so i like high speed on those lines as well.

  6. Don't stress over having to many rods out or not getting enough out, one epic birds nest makes it all not worth it.  

     

    Conditions really make a difference. If your getting in real close, I mean 6 foot depth close you will not have as many rods out but your there because your catching fish. I have had many trips of having 2 rods out and limiting out for 3 people. Just couldn't get the next rod out. 

     

    Then there is the wind and waves and boat traffic. Have you ever seen some of these guys with huge sets out acting like that gives them privilege to the whole lake? And because they have huge sets out they cant maneuver in heavy traffic, so they become "jerks of the lake", and they believe you have to move because they cant. A large set is not worth becoming a flaming jerk in my opinion. 

     

    My rule of thumb is put out as many poles as you need but if having to many lines out is causing you any problems pull them before you act stupid.

  7. To me the most important thing is to be able to get to the line. Sounds simple maybe, but its surprising how difficult it can be in a bit of wave action or when the boat is drifting sideways or turning.

     

    This is personal and the height of the pulleys from the deck, how tall you are these all go into play.  One set up for a short guy will not work for a tall guy, some guys like a rope with a ring on the line to pull it in, others hate it. I don't like it as the rings always seem to jam up the rope going in or out, so I like to be able to reach it by hand most of the time, so I put my toward the back.

     

    I want to reach it with my one hand and hook up and go. So I mounted mine where I can do that. Yes I have to watch the poles and the line when making turns, sometimes I have to move a pole. It is a trade off, with doing it that way.

  8. Be careful about weighting, not that it doesn't work for specific things and reasons, but conditions and reasons can change quickly.

     

    The engineering that goes into a boat is not second hand, there are reasons for weight limits and distribution formulas. Just be aware of them that's all. I know a guy who used bags of something (I thought it was sand but im not positive) in the bow and after 3 or so years one broke filed bilge with sand, clogged his bilge pump and plugged all the slots mean to let water back to the stern. So he took them out to discover they caused corrosion on the alum where he had placed them creating pits %50 though the hull. 

     

    Depending on boat the hydrofoil is nice but trim tabs are nicer (but much more money and a much bigger pain to maintain and install). The hydrofoils are the best place to start and if it fixes it your golden quit there.

  9. Real mounting a kicker is sort of "what works" not so much "just like this", there are many variables and you can work with all of them. 

     

    You need clearance from electronics, and room to turn both motors if they get out of sync without tearing each other up.

     

    Your method of steering has an effect, if your using an arm and controlling the kicker off your main then there is a better distance than others to consider.

     

    How high you  mount the kicker is determined by how close to the water do you want the motor of the kicker, and length of your shaft. To have more control mount with the prop low as possible, it doesn't have to be below the draft but much better if it is. 

     

    Lots of little things to consider but the small sterns of these boats get real crowded real fast with all the stuff back there.

  10. I used part of a stern of an old boat, (mahogany) recovered the wood re-purposed it, I used release on the boat and then put a thick layer of epoxy on the wood and put it on the bow and put some weights on it to dry. This gave me the right shape for the back of the wood ( I had to do it a few times to get the build up thick enough).  Once dry, i cleaned it up and used a surf board resin and thin fabric fiberglass on the top and then buffed it.

     

    I like the way it turned out, as well, I also used some good marine adhesive around the edges. 

×
×
  • Create New...