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Posts posted by kayaker919

  1. 20221024_122737.thumb.jpg.4c40d7b9a75fcbdef57aa545b6a02c81.jpg


    Qty 2 - Yakima 66" Round Crossbars

    Qty 4 - Yakima gunnel mounts for round crossbar

    Qty 4 - Yakima locking clamp on Q-towers (for bare roofs)

    Qty 4 - Yakima Q99 clamp/clip adapters (currently installed on towers)

    Qty 2 - Yakima Q2 clamp/clip adapters (loose)

    Qty 2 - Yakima locking rail rider towers (for vehicles with existing slotted rails)

    Qty 4 - Yakima locks ..... and 2 keys!   8^)

    Instructions, tools, etc. as seen in photo.


    $250 $200, Pick up in Webster, NY

    PM if interested.


  2. No experience, but some ideas....


    The signals do share a common "return" through the water, so that might be coupling somehow.  However, I would think the starboard probe would swamp any signal coupling.


    I assume you verified the starboard probe works with the port probe not in the water?  


    If you swap probes does it follow the probe?  If yes, maybe low battery in starboard probe?

  3. You do not need to electrically connect the coated cable to the rigger spool unless the rigger uses that for autostop, or positive ion control like some Cannons.  It is not needed for the Depth Raider.  


    I should have thought of this on my original response, but you can connect the ground wire directly to the lower lug on the probe to increase the signal strength for testing vs dropping in bucket.  Your antenna should work then.


    You can also theoretically increase the signal strength in actual use by taping or otherwise insulating exposed metal that contacts the top lug of the probe, just make sure your swivel still works!.


    I tape up the clincher release with the stretchy, self-adhering tape down to the top of the swivel. Nothing on rest of swivel. I did coat the probe tab with "liquid tape" where the swivel does not contact, but don't know if it made any difference. I get 150ft with x-version Depth Raider.....175+ft with wet towel....YMMV
  4. See the diagram below and in the following link.  Add-A-Battery Kit - 120A


    This system keeps both batteries charged automatically, but isolated so your start battery does not get discharged by your electronics.  The switch is ON/OFF/BOTH.  BOTH is only for emergency if your start battery is low for some reason.

  5. You “can”, but to reduce the possibility of ground loops and interference between electronics, you should connect all negative returns to the ground bus bar.  If you cannot upgrade the bus bar you would be better off “double lugging” the second battery to your ground bus bar than connecting it to the negative terminal of the first battery.  See the diagram below and in the following link.  Add-A-Battery Kit - 120A


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