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Sk8man

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Posts posted by Sk8man

  1. Not sure what they would find when they examined further up the creek but my hunch is that given the rather mild weather conditions this winter and the brief warmer temps (e.g. 60) there may have been an earlier run but there still could be fish farther up. In the past I have caught them in mid May. I haven't fished it for a few years though.

  2. For those folks that are curious.....

    I was a bit late and missed the first go round but reportedly 4 bows netted and 2 browns mixed in at first spot on the main road.

    I went to Digger Dam for the second netting and a pretty good crowd built up only saw three rainbows netted largest 6.02 lbs.

    Here are some pics to give you a feel of things:

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    • Like 1
  3. I had to have one of my towing eye bolts moved but I was able to have the bracket fit in (barely). By the way although some folks may not believe it you may not need a steering arm to troll. I used an EZ steer for a few years and it was a pain so I tried not using anything at all and under most conditions it works fine without any I just tilt the small motor a few degrees toward the main and then steer with the main motor (135 Merc) I also have an extension for an electric trolling motor that fits over the tiller handle if I need it so I  don't have to reach out and can adjust easily inside.to change direction. If it is real windy I troll with the big motor.

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  4. 2 hours ago, mr 580 said:

    Think you will find many manufacturers use the same engine for different horsepower ratings in the small portable class.  I have an 8 horse Honda and it is same engine as 9.9 Honda just rated at lower rpm.  Suzuki uses same basic engine for 9.9 to 20 horse.  9.9 is probably most popular size in under 15hp so used your chance is probably best with 9.9.  You definitely want a 2 cylinder over a single plus many 8’s and 9.9’s have charging systems.

    Ditto. Tohatsu makes a 9.8 that is 90 lbs. (without any tilt/trim etc.) ansd it electric start with charging. outboards online is about the most reasonable pricing-wise.

  5. The only real way to tell is to experiment with and without on the water. Each spoon can have a different designed action determined by its general shape, width, and the angle of the cup at the end so the best way to know for sure is to try it out both ways and make your determination based on actual performance data.

  6. If you stay with the same size hook the XX stuff shouldn't make any difference. Years ago I shifted to single 2/0 and 3/0 (for mags) Mustad Stainless Siwash salmon hooks 9510xxx and never looked back. They penetrate real well, don't rust, don't break or bend, and it is easier to release fish with out damage (using needle nose pliers) quickly. They have an open loop so replacing them on existing split rings is a breeze

  7. Maisie - it is a little difficult to tell from the pic but I think it is monel wire which is a composite alloy of nickel mixed with copper. It is very soft and has a similar sink rate to copper wire and was used by many folks for jerking copper like the use of the victrola.

    • Like 1
  8. A couple things come to mind. a) you want to be away from direct sources of turbulence and this depends somewhat on your hull design and the chines and strakes on the hull. The location should be towards the outside of the transom in a "clear"  "flat"spot. Can be on either side of the transom and you didn't mention if you intend to have a kicker mounted. If so it should be opposite side of that. b) Depending on the frequency of the fishfinder, it may or may not be a problem locating it near that transducer. The frequency of the Fishhawk is around 70 khz so if your depthfinder is operating near that range (e.g.50khz) it may be advantageous to locate on opposite side. If the depth finder is operating in a range higher than 100 khz you usually shouldn't have a problem with interference.

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