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Sk8man

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Posts posted by Sk8man

  1. Man...those little guys look like bait for the ones we get on Cape Cod.....it is great to see they have made such a wonderful come back from the days when they had to be at least 40 inches to keep. They are great fish and the big ones fight similar to king salmon...and best of all they are great on the grill :)  Sand eels are usually the ticket on the Cape fishing the rip tides

  2. JB235 and I fished the area from Gibsons landing to the bluffs and then to the state park in his Grady and came up with 3 fish...lakers all cookie cutters of about 18 inches or so. A double came on the thermocline (Seth Green) rig we were just testing out and one from the downrigger set at 35 ft. with a slider...he came from 35 ft on a Sutton spoon. Nothing whatsoever on the dipsey or topline set way back. That was it... no other hits or errors or fish left on base :)  Got a bit windy at the end but a fun day nevertheless....especially for a "shakedown" cruise.

  3. Definitely want at least 30's but Convectors is probably a better choice for the money and with the 30's they can be adapted to do most of the different setups and can handle some capacity for the various lines. They are good for running anything from standard downriggers to stranded wire or lead core with the right rods.....Although I have specific setups for the different lead cores and wire I also switch line from one of my rigs from braid to wire when the fleas start up so they are quite flexible reels too.

  4. For flies  ziplock storage bags and a cloth shopping bag (stays put doesn't slide around ziplocks keep everything from tangling and protect from elements. I have nearly all my setups pre set up in Ziplocks (cowbells, dodgers, flashers, Spin Docs dipseys extra leaders by length and line strength etc. all this way so seldom have to rig or tie anything on the boat unless I desire a change of fly or lure.  I get everything ready over the winter when I can't get out there and it saves a lot of time and aggravation (e.g. tying in the wind) and allows more time actually fishing. On the downside my wife spends a lot of time looking for her ziplocks :lol:

  5. Could be a fungal infection they are very prone to that when an area of protective slime is removed from their skin for example (as in someone poorly handling it when released). Usually seen more often in the Summer and Fall when the temps are higher though but could have had it for a while I suppose.

  6. I'm not sure what you are running for your main line....it sounds as though it is fluorocarbon. The fluoro is best used as leader material not the main line. The the length and line strength of the leader is dependent on what you intend to then use for your main line and also what particular set ups you intend to run, (wire, copper, lead core, mono etc.), and your terminal lures and/or attractors as well as the depth you are trying to achieve. The specific rod and reel that you are using is also important in determining what types of setups you can run from it (e.g. rod have a twilli tip or roller tip, standard tip and guides ,reel capacity etc. The main reasons for not using the fluoro for your main line is that a) it has little if any stretch and it is rather brittle and stiff and b) does not come off the reel well when there is a lot of it on there.

  7.  Just a word of caution about the prop pitch. The pitch has to deliver rpms within the rated range of rpms for your engine. If not careful you could select a prop that will cause the engine to exceed the range it was designed to operate within and overheat and damage your motor.

  8. Just regular black barrel swivels small enough to go through the tip and eyes but I also encase the wound copper wire at the end (leader end) in clear hot glue so that it will not untwist or bend back and forth and with the clear glue I can see it inside to detect any possible breakage of strands. Yes it is possible that it will collect a flea or two or grass but it is well before the lure etc. and so far no problem.

  9. Hey Sean I think Finnlander's point is well taken. Sometimes it is safer to bite the bullet and have someone who has messed with the stuff before (probably many times) and also may have the necessary testing equipment etc. to sort it all out. You may have a compound problem there too. Good luck with it.

  10. It could be that the concentrations of Zebra Mussels and Quaggas have blocked much of the traditional spawning beds of bass and perch as well in the shallower areas in many places you can't see the bottom itself because they are so thick. They also strain out most if not all of the pyytoplankton that the younger baitfish feed on in shallow so the food sources are scarce to none there and it goes up the food chain.....

  11. Basic question: what kind of gas are you using? Is it ethanol? If the answer is yes it may be your problem it wasn't designed to use it... if it is non-ethanol how old is the gas? Was it "wintered over"? It may have water in it or in the gas line.You may want to check the fuel filter if it has one....it may be more than one issue...

     

    You may want to go back to square one with the impeller and check things out again because a hot engine may mean something is plugged there....are you getting a constant stream of water out of the outflow?  I know my old 1979 Johnson had an automatic shut off when it overheated to a certain point  because algae in the water had blocked the intake and impeller.

     

    The engine should not be hot at that point and it should not seize up so I would think that it is either an internal problem such as a gasket leak or malfunction, carburator issue, oil is not getting to the engine,  or the water is not cooling the engine because of a blockage of some sort.  

     

    I would think that given the age of the motor that 50 to 1 may not be enough oil in the mixture either despite it being well "broken in".

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