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Trolling82

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Posts posted by Trolling82

  1. Panther T4 Thru Tilt Tube Remote Kicker Steer

    Practically brand new. Only used it for a couple days. Main engine blew up and now i just use the kicker off the main steering cable.

    This is not the wireless version. The wire is real long. Could use it from anywhere on my 22' boat.

    Works awesome for trolling. Couldn't be happier unless I still had the main engine!

    Works perfect. Can hook it to a battery when you pick up to show.

    $350 OBO

    Please email [email protected] as I don't get on here very often. Thanks!

  2. Picked up a couple copper setups from atommik this spring. Only used em twice this year. They are like new. Like to run riggers and wire and usually don't have enough people on boat to add these to the spread. Plus I just picked me up a new Marlin XL7 .270 so I got to balance out the toys! ;)

    1 - Penn 330 GT2 w/ 200' copper setup (backing, copper, leader)

    1 - Penn 345 GTi w/ 300' copper setup

    Each reel is mounted on a 10' Okuma Classic Pro Mooching rod 2-piece 10-25lbs. (not roller guides)

    Also have spare spools of 200' and 300' copper

    Would be like $450 new for everything so $300?

    Thanks!

  3. Engine went BAM-bam-bam-bam on me...

    1982 3.8 OMC V6... Don't know why the bam but if someone needs a part motor give me a shout.

    Intermediate housing.... Ball gear has almost no wear to it. Make an offer

    Stringer 800 outdrive. Excellent shape. Prop like new. Includes upper, lower, prop, steering cable. $400. Also spare lower unit that came with boat when I bought it years ago

    Call Bob 607-739-9842. Leave message.

    Also listed locally

  4. Call 315-585-6392

    Hopefully they might have some left. They sell out super quick. They became available Monday 8am. At 7:59 I'm pushing redial. Got lucky this year. Only got busy signal 4-5 times before I made it through. Just getting the slip is turning into a ritual! :D

    They get so many calls that they just take your name and number, put you on a list, and keep answering phones. Called me back at like 11:00 to get information and I was on the phone with them at like 8:02.

  5. The 25 amp blew and not the 2 amp because that is where the juice got to first. When you talk it's getting flooded with juice for some reason. More than 25 amps. This blows the 25 amp fuse. The 2 amp fuse doesn't blow because it doesn't get a chance to get there. Sounds like you got a bad mike.... shorting out somewhere along the internals of the radio/mike. Try borrowing a radio from someone else and seeing if the fuse still blows. If it doesn't - get a new radio. If it does blow, check your wiring.

  6. Just thought of one more thing to help isolate it. Disconnect the light power from a gauge. MAKE SURE IT DOESN'T COME IN CONTACT WITH ANYTHING! Then turn nav lights on. Check to see if the rest of the gauges still peg. Turn nav lights off. Reattach light power to gauge. Continue this with every gauge. Possibility one gauge you disconnect will not make the rest peg. Possibility that gauge has an internal short or bad ground.

  7. Oh and you should always have an open (no continuity) circuit from gauge power to light power.

    make sure the light power doesn't have any jumper wires running to any gauge powers....

    It's not going to be a circuit located right at a gauge I would doubt.

    Wait. this happened all of a sudden with no wiring done to have changed it? Check grounds.

    5-1 says you got a bad ground somewhere!

  8. it affects all the gauges????

    that's a bit odd. Do the gauges light up as well?

    If they don't, it sounds like the feed for the gauge lights is going directly to your gauges signal wires.

    Would have to see how you have it wired. I was an electronics specialist for F-15s in the AF so I'm a wiring fanatic but I'm a visual person.

    Probably best advice is just trace it out. find where the juice comes from nav light switch and goes to gauges. follow it and make sure it's all hooked up right. Then check your grounds.

    Open circuit for light power on gauges when nav lights off. Closed when nav lights on. Gauge power should be faint closed circuit with key on. Gives the gauge reading depending on amount of power going to gauge.

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