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dbitting

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Posts posted by dbitting

  1. You may wonder why not just change all over to Alpha1. i didn't want to change the hydraulics and steering assembly at this time.  2 1100 gph bilge pumps under motor with independent breakers and switches wired to different batteries, Since NJ is closed and only one person per boat gives me more time to finish things right. Stripers will probable be North of me before this Covid-19 BS is over 

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  2. UPDATE

     

    turns out like any other project it gets bigger than expected. While cleaning up the outdrive i decided to look for a noise the unit had when trimmed up. disassembled the upper unit discovered a bearing took a **** and in turn took out a shaft with splines in the lower unit. I decided i was not going to fix it but convert to Alpha1 on anOMC gimble conversion. I purchased a new unit cleaned  epoxied and painted the new unit all new seals and bearings. i gutted the transom where the drive mounted, i installed Coosaboard laid a fiberglass layer between the old fiberglass and the new boad left that dry then shaped the coosaboard and placed 3 layers of 1708 over the inside.

     i installed the new transom mount with the conversion kit to accept the alpha 1 drive. Also had to replace the shift/ throttle to change cable direction. spent several hours cleaning up wiring, added 2 new blowers and hoses. epoxied a removable bilge assembly. installed new drain plug assembly that retains the plug. hopefully i can place the motor and get the closed cooling system figured out. i will post more pics when i get them from my phone

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  3. I didn't confirm yet but i was just told the trout stocking has been canceled in Pennsylvania

     

     

    Stand corrected: No early Trout opener and persons assisting in stockings.

    To help ensure public safety, volunteers are NOT permitted to assist with stocking activities. We have accelerated the stocking schedule to ensure fish are stocked while taking measures to reduce the spread of COVID-19.

    REMINDER: Trout Opening Day is Saturday, April 18, 2020 for the entire state. There is no earlier regional opener this year. For more information, view our COVID-19 page (https://www.fishandboat.com/Pages/covid-19.aspx).

    We appreciate your patience and support during this process, thank you.

     

     

  4. There are many variables  that affect the proper prop. Take what you have. Current RPM, Speed, Boat weight, Gear, Occupants etc get accurate numbers  then take that info and see what prop it chooses for your boat. if it don't match there would be my starting prop. Your speed and RPM wont be a factor initially because it is going to determine your baseline on boat make and model gear and persons weight. This will choose the ideal prop, however change any one of those things and the  performance will change. It is not an exact science. Stainless props perform different from aluminium. if you find your prop matches  the settings you entered and are reaching MAX rpm you are probably optimized.  As others mentioned you can go up or down a size but if you are at max rpm no prop will make up the performance time to shed weight or add horsepower. Trim tabs and motor trim help with getting on plane but again if your at max RPM then that optimized. try the link below. It will give you choices and from there you cose the boaing style you do regularly. From there you will have a lot of choices in brands and styles.

     

    https://turningpointpropellers.com/PROPWIZARD/

  5. In my opinion if you want to  be sure  as every one has said i would take the time to get to know your boat BEFORE you are on the water.  So lets take the batteries in this case  you probably have 3 because 2x 12v for Trolling and 1x 12v for starting and accessories.  If this is the case and you have an onboard charging unit (not the engine)  it SHOULD be a 3 bank charger. each bank would be a 12v output which should have a red and black lead per bank these should be fused at the rating of the charger. If you follow the trolling motor battery wire you will find 2- 12v batteries connected together 1  wire to - on 1 battery and the red connected to the + on the other battery which leaves a + and - where a heavy wire joins them  together. this is supplying you trolling motor 24V. the charger will have 2 of the 3 sets of wires going to batteries blacks to - and reds to the + supplying 12v to each battery charging them independently. the 3rd bank of the charger will be marked START that gets connected to the Start battery connecting to your gas motor.  Your gas motor  will generally only charge that battery and nothing else. There are some chargers specifically for 24v or36v systems however if you have a battery issue you cannot isolate the battery and charge them with that type of charger.  There are charge relays you can add where they isolate the trolling batteries until after the gas motor is running and when it senses the voltage above battery voltage it will close charging the trolling batteries while under way. These units are sold by BlueSea  as a kit or just the relay.

     

    On my Tracker 16 i had i had 3 1000 CCA deep cycle batteries and a 3 bank charger hooked up i would troll all day long and when i got home i connected the umbilical cord parked in the garage until the next adventure. On that boat i almost NEVER used the gas motor. Note that was a complete 12 system for good reason if i drained the trolling batteries i still had the start battery to use as reserve. 

     

    My new bot has 2 batteries  1 start  and 1 for accessories, they are separated by the mentioned charge relay and a switch. should i need a boost to start the boat i switch to combine joining the batteries t o fire up the motor.

     

    https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/35/Automatic_Charging_Relays

    • Like 1
  6. In changing to Elec. Fuel system and HEI ignition  i am able to carry spare parts that are pretty easy to change on rocky water. I cannot imaging setting up failed points on the water. I would be puking the whole time. I placed the parts in a vac seal bag and took all the air out protecting then from corrosion. Along with adding spare plugs, cap and rotor.  I mean i cannot take everything along but a few common parts that are known to fail gives peace of mind. I mean how many people keep spare engine parts in the trunk when they travel.

     

    Most recently i have been going out alone so if something should fail id have hopefully what i need to get back. The Atlantic Ocean is a big body of water.

  7. OMG, Getting old. I forgot to also mention i purchased a Closed cooling system the the salt water will only flow through the heat exchanger. The will only be Coolant in the engine block which covers two obstacles i had. Winterizing too early losing out on late Striper fishing and having to drain the block several times before actually stop using for the season. Now i just have to flush the heat exchanger and open a bolt that removes the top and bottom of the open part of the cooling system that has salt contact ($700.00). I still have to figure out mounting location and the hoses that were not included but Summit Racing has a good selection of Alum. tubing and hoses  for race setups. I have stainless tubing i can bend however my radius bends are about 9 inches so i have limitations making DIY piping

  8. I bought this boat 2 years about from a guy up there and I fell  in love with the boat. The trailer fell apart on my way back home for a revisit to the guy who sold me it and at the time i didn't understand why he wouldn't  go out with us on the boat to show us around, and now i wonder if he maybe knew of some of the issues. Anyway that's water under the bridge.  I now have a boat that i know what is in it and feel comfortable in what i have done to make this vessel reliable and comfortable. I just need to get everything back together and tested  before this Fall when the Stripers return from up North. I had plans of coming to Lake Ontario last year but you season went by too fast. 

     

    All the pictures i have included are from over the last two years. I learned how to sew and created a new enclosure for this boat with plans to create a hardtop. Towing a bimini enclosure just sucks. Last year i learned Autocad and designed my gauges before actually creating and cutting my new dashboard. Everything fit where the original cutout was except the 2 HDS9 displays. I also learned how to TIG weld Stainless tubing creating the new hardtop. Once the frame was completed i wired the frame for forward and rear lighting as well as the anchor light, mounted the frame and realized it has to move forward about 1.5 inches. I need to fill existing holes and remount in correct position. At the beginning of last years fishing season i lost a cylinder thinking the worst the motor blew only to find the head was the cause of the loss. I replaced that and July started the domino effect in this initial post. Motor cooling system jacked up. bearing damage from cracked head, outdrive bearing messed up damaging lower unit. transom and gimble unit corroded excessively  and the transom rotted out. So you see i am at the point where i cant turn back or stop. I have to see it through to the end where hopefully she will provide me many years of happy service and unforgettable memories.

     

    Last year was our first Striper experience where we caught huge stripers. My fishing buddy and our daughters have our personal best catches on this boat. the year before my ex and my daughter fished non stop 6 hours catching catfish on the Delaware River. When i say six hours i mean the action was  cast and reel for all but 20 minutes. We caught so many fish.

     

    This season was going to be my season. Planed to Striper  and Drum fish the Atlantic Ocean and fish the Delaware River during the Striper migration as well as the catfish spawn  then head up to Lake Ontario for some Trout and Salmon experience. With the unexpected expenses to the boat this year and the Corona Scare i am not sure how much funding i will have for fishing and might be forced to stay close to home. Minimum cost to take the boat out is $100  for bait and fuel, to come to LO its minimum $250 without staying over night.  And no one wants to share expenses they all want to fish but no one realizes the costs involved in having a boat and passion to fish.

  9. Posted at the request of Tangledline:

     

     

    In July of last year I loaned my 1989 Penn Yan Tournament 212 to a good friend of min to  take on vacation because we couldn't get his boat completed on time. Anyway he managed to make a mistake and return for the ocean during low tide and  suck mud and sludge into my cooling system. I didn't notice until Fall when i went to winterize the engine and no water came out the right side drain. i used wire to try and open the channel but didn't work. This engine never showed signs of overheating throughout the Summer. So i decided to pull the engine to flush the block and if need be to remove the freeze plugs and clean out the cooling channel.  I pulled the block, flushed the cooling system and decided to spin the engine upside down to look at the bearings. I looked at a main and rod bearing furthest from the oil pump as recommended from some online readings. I found  some bearing wear and slight scoring in the bearings. this is a GM 4.3l Carb engine.  I started looking around and trying to find a machine shop i was comfortable dealing with. I came across a shop about an hour north of me and gave the guy a call. I left a message and about 15 minutes later he called me back, I explained my issue and he asked is this a saltwater motor, Yeeeeesssss, i replied. He instructed me to toss the block and start over.I told him the boat came from the Great Lakes and i only recently started using it in the ocean plus i remove the boat and flush it every trip. I was told to go back and remove all  freeze plugs and flush the engine again i was amazed at the amount of rust the came out of the block. Probably 2 lbs if rus was all over the driveway. I finally disassembled the engine completely bagging and marking everything taking the motor down to a bare block except two oil plugs and cam bearings. I loaded everything in the truck took it up for him to access. We decided we could use this block and proceeded with the rebuild process.

     

    New pistons, rings, oil pump, cam, crank and rod bearings, timing chain and gaskets. After the parts arrive i received a phone call that there was a 4" crack on the side of the block just below the head. He asked if it ever leaked water my response was NO all the rust must have sealed the crack enough to seal the crack. So i needed to look for a good block. I started looking around for a block of the same casting and found a complete engine from a Blazer  with the same casting numbers. Yes you can use Truck engines in marine applications! Everything was exactly the same except the Blazer had electric fuel system.  I opted to convert to electric fuel pump instead of machining for the  mechanical fuel pump rod and bolt holes. I disassembled that engine and again took that block to be cleaned and checked for cracks after a few weeks i got a call the engine was completed.

     

    Engine was  hot tanked, Bored .030 crank machined .010,.010 and assembled with the above mentioned new parts. The heads were redone( i had to provide a second set because the original head head was cracked between the valve seats of 2 cylinders. my bill was $2021.00 for Machine and assembly plus the $679.00 for the new internal parts i provided. You can buy Engine Tech kit for about $379 but he didn't recommend them. 

    I brought the engine home and painted the block with engine paint, added  an OEM OMC electric fuel pump from a newer model (94) created a factory type wire harness to connect the electrical with the same color wiring as in a diagram. $200.00 give or take.

    Ok so now i am waiting for warm weather to install the motor and i decide to look into my out drive noise i had when i raise the unit. Upon disassembly the upper unit i found the  main shat bearing jacked up which took out the main drive shaft internal drive teeth. I weighed my options and decided it would be or cost affective getting away from OMC and moving to something else. I researched a  conversion kit from SEI the will allow you to attache an Alpha1 gen 2 outdrive to an OMC transom. It was listed at $550, I shopped around and found it for $350  the only catch is you may have to change the shifter\throttle lever assembly in the cockpit which i had to  so that was $400 o found an open box for $250. Which now brings me to the icing on the cake. I removed the bell form the OMC and decided to clean the gimble and transom mount only to find the were excessively eaten away(the fitting for the trim lines). I looked on line for a replacement part only to find they are unavailable so i looked for a transom mount in better condition ($210) & new seal kit was ($100) which leads me to removing the unit from the boat only to find the rot in the wood. it was so soaked I was devastated!I ended up getting lucky and my transom is for the most part fiberglass with only a 2x4 ft section where the motor and sterndrive goes through the hull. i spent the day chipping out the damaged would from the boat and ordered a section of COOSABOARD  which is coming tomorrow ($250). I have to cut and fit it to the boat then fiberglass it back to the transom (est $200 for materials). Once that is complete i can reassemble my baby. I should also mentioned i converted the ignition system to HEI ignition (1994) and HEI coil with wiring harness and completely rebuilt the carb.

     

    In summary 

    Engine approx $3000.00

    Gimble conversion $600.00

    Transom repair approx $700.00

    SEI Alpha1 Gen2 sterndrive $1000.00 (new) 

     I have invested about $15k into this boat since i brought it home from Lake Ontario. Last year i completely replaced the  the gauges and upgraded the electronics,  that was $5k. I built a Stainless Tube framed hardtop which i planed to enclose this season however funds will squash that until next year

     

     

     

      

    • Like 3
  10. I can only speak for lowrance version of AP they have a reasonable option that works well i have the retrofit cable version installed in my 89 PennYan however they also make a hydraulic version  both version under $1500 and easy to install yourself. I used mine last year in the Bay marking schools and when i had a bunch of wave points I would create a route and use the AP to troll back and forth over the wavepoints. Worked great. I spend off the water time on Navionics website creating navigation routes then save them to my account. When i get to my boat i link my phone to the HDS unit and download the routes i created. When i launch at the Sandy Hook Marina i set the navigation to take me out past the point . as long as it is not busy it works very well, However you still have to watch for traffic. 

    • Like 1
  11. I will try once my unit is complete. I would this it would create enough suction to prime the pump. Have you checked the connection between the upper and lower units to  see if it is in fact sucking air and not water?

     

  12. On 2/22/2020 at 7:08 AM, tuffishooker said:

    Are you sucking exhaust gas in the barrel in to the engine instead of water ? was told by dealer not to run too long in barrel or engine could over heat !

    Not clear what you mean but  the barrel should be fed with fresh water at all times to keep the engine from over heating it isn't the exhaust gasses that over heat the engine it would be the fact you are recirculating the same water over and over again and each time the water temp increases. On an OMC sterndrive , at east mine the exhaust doesn't even enter the water as the bellows have cuts in it allowing the exhaust to escape before passing to the lower unit where it usually expels through the hub on most outdrives. Please keep in mind you are not going to be running any boat out of water for extended periods of time this is usually for flushing and testing. I could have used this last year as i flush my motor after each trip to the ocean Now i only need this to break in my motor. I will be able to use muffs to just flush the heat exchanger of the closed loop cooling system. 

  13. I would be feeding the barrel with fresh water while it is running to replace what comes out and cooling the warmed water. It is too cold here yet to be doing this now i have about a month yet probably before we get warm enough days

     

  14. That barrel idea is awesome. I have to complete my new engine assembly and install it back in the boat. Once installed i am converting to a closed cooling system so i won't have to worry about winterizing the block anymore. When i fire the engine up for the first time i have to hold the engine at 2k rpm for 30 minutes to break the motor in this barrel would save me a cold trip to the river because  muffs are not to be used at that high rpm, doesn't supply enough water to the motor. I also coverted from mechanical fuel pump to electric and took the old ignition system out and replaced that with an updated electronic system that can easily get parts for. I'll carry a spare pump and module in case I have a failure on the water as they are easy to replace.  Striper fishing open March 1st and i am no where ready for the season!

  15. What i was told was to mark the distributor where the plug wire is for #1 Cylinder  bring the engine to TDC confirm it is on the firing stroke and the distributor will drop in. if it doesn't mover the rotor counter clockwise a bit and drop it in. when you have it right it will fall pretty much in but it may not bottom out because the oil drive didn't engage yet. turning the motor over by hand will allow it to drop the rest of the way. crank the motor moving the distributor slightly until it fires will get you close  to timing then check with a light

  16. Only need 3 things to get it to fire. Air, Fuel and spark  air you have  spark you checked so  make sure fuel is getting to the cylinder. Pull the plug on a cylinder and see if it is wet.  Are you sure are on TDC #1 cylinder AND both valves closed. if not  pull the distributer and rotate engine again until it is. if you blow air into the cylinder and it don't leak out you should be at TDC for that cylinder  with the timing mark on TDC. Hope this helps

     

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