dbitting

On 2/22/2020 at 7:08 AM, tuffishooker said:

Are you sucking exhaust gas in the barrel in to the engine instead of water ? was told by dealer not to run too long in barrel or engine could over heat !

Not clear what you mean but  the barrel should be fed with fresh water at all times to keep the engine from over heating it isn't the exhaust gasses that over heat the engine it would be the fact you are recirculating the same water over and over again and each time the water temp increases. On an OMC sterndrive , at east mine the exhaust doesn't even enter the water as the bellows have cuts in it allowing the exhaust to escape before passing to the lower unit where it usually expels through the hub on most outdrives. Please keep in mind you are not going to be running any boat out of water for extended periods of time this is usually for flushing and testing. I could have used this last year as i flush my motor after each trip to the ocean Now i only need this to break in my motor. I will be able to use muffs to just flush the heat exchanger of the closed loop cooling system. 

I would be feeding the barrel with fresh water while it is running to replace what comes out and cooling the warmed water. It is too cold here yet to be doing this now i have about a month yet probably before we get warm enough days

That barrel idea is awesome. I have to complete my new engine assembly and install it back in the boat. Once installed i am converting to a closed cooling system so i won't have to worry about winterizing the block anymore. When i fire the engine up for the first time i have to hold the engine at 2k rpm for 30 minutes to break the motor in this barrel would save me a cold trip to the river because  muffs are not to be used at that high rpm, doesn't supply enough water to the motor. I also coverted from mechanical fuel pump to electric and took the old ignition system out and replaced that with an updated electronic system that can easily get parts for. I'll carry a spare pump and module in case I have a failure on the water as they are easy to replace.  Striper fishing open March 1st and i am no where ready for the season!

What i was told was to mark the distributor where the plug wire is for #1 Cylinder  bring the engine to TDC confirm it is on the firing stroke and the distributor will drop in. if it doesn't mover the rotor counter clockwise a bit and drop it in. when you have it right it will fall pretty much in but it may not bottom out because the oil drive didn't engage yet. turning the motor over by hand will allow it to drop the rest of the way. crank the motor moving the distributor slightly until it fires will get you close  to timing then check with a light

Only need 3 things to get it to fire. Air, Fuel and spark  air you have  spark you checked so  make sure fuel is getting to the cylinder. Pull the plug on a cylinder and see if it is wet.  Are you sure are on TDC #1 cylinder AND both valves closed. if not  pull the distributer and rotate engine again until it is. if you blow air into the cylinder and it don't leak out you should be at TDC for that cylinder  with the timing mark on TDC. Hope this helps

I actually went the other route i got another block and it is at the machine shop now. Bored .030 over refinish crank new internals  rebuilt heads and added a closed cooling system. i am picking up the motor this Saturday

I actually have a OMC 4.3l block that just a crack in it looks like yours and i am deciding what to do with it

I actually have a OMC 4.3l block that just a crack in it looks like yours and i am deciding what to do with it

MY bad i don't get on here too often and when i did for another post I noticed  your post

Do some research before you pay that kind of money. I paid $200 for the exact engine block out of an 89 s10 blazer. The only reason the fuel pump wasn't drilled was because the truck was EFI not carbureted. Don't let a marina fool you into the difference in marine and on road engines. Casting is a casting so use the casting numbers and search a salvage yard. My expenses are in the machine work,  block cleaning, cylinder boring .030 over turning the rod and main journals .010, Rebuild both heads and assembling the long block $1700. When complete I will have an engine built by a machine shop with 0 hours and quality parts, (purchased myself). Unfortunately it is a large expense  $2500+  then add the $800 closed loop cooling system once completed this should outlast me. My thought is one Seatow would cost that much out on the Atlantic Ocean, I'd rather have piece of mind i did everything right not to break down on the water.  Closed loop cooling  takes care of the need to winterize the engine, only need to tend to the heat exchanger and the exhaust manifolds if it's a half system like mine. Each year or two you only have to check the fresh water side for deposits and debris. Clean with acid  or CLR. 

I saved my old cracked block too. I will be trying to fix the cack and sending it out to be machined. I will build it as a spare motor for me if i lose mine during the season. 

I have the same boat and experience similar issues. Depending on how i load the boat is how it leans on plane. I have to adjust my trim tabs even wnen someone moves from one side to the other while on plane. It could be the hull design

On 11/4/2019 at 8:37 AM, MINNOWNITE said:

Purchased boat in spring 2019. Used all summer and ran well aside form a water leak i thought was coming from the exhaust manifold. So waited till now to deal with it. Removed engine. Removed manifold. No leak...Ok must be headgasket... removed it ...didnt suspect anything. Had a mechanic look at it to give me some advice before reasembly and found the block cracked! pretty bad too. So...how to repair? JB WELD? Machine shop? find a doner block? Biggest issue im having is that the engine runs great! aside from this water leak... 1990 omc 3.0L 

I am in the exact situation, I bout my Penn Yan Tournament 212 from  Lake Ontario area and ran it several years winterized it each season. This Summer i lost a cylinder turned out to be a head. replaced the head and i was back on the water. In October i went to winterize my boat and when i drained the block nothing came out. It turned  out back in July i loaned  my boat to a friend fro his vacation and he hit a sandbar sucking mud and sand into the block clogging the water jackets.  I removed the engine flushed the cooling system managed to get the mud out but i found a bigger issue. It seems that the water jack  have built up considerable amounts of rust and was restricting water flow, although it never overheated. Well i decided to flip the motor and check the bearings only to find when the head went it sucked the oil out of the motor long enough to cause some damage to the bearings. Some scoring to the main and rod bearings. So I decided to take it to machine shop dropped off the block was given a parts list needed to rebuild the motor. the following week he called an told me the block was cracked jus like in your picture. he asked did it leak i said no never! Since there is very little pressure in an open cooling system he offered to stitch weld the block where you drill both ends of the block and add the tabs across the crack then weld it keeping the crack from expanding. For me this would not be an option because after seeing the rust and sand issue i was investing in a closed loop cooling system. I went and found a truck engine block with the same casting number and dropped at at the machine shop. The only difference is i now need an electric fuel pump. i didn't want to pay to drill the rod hole and screw holes for a mechanical pump.  So in the end you can weld it ind it may hold because it is low pressure but i would look into why it cracked in the first place.In my case i would bet my block had so much debris in it even though i winterized it  there was sand and water that froze cracking the block.

On 12/10/2019 at 9:40 AM, Sk8man said:

For folks unfamiliar with it this may answer some questions:

http://coosacomposites.com/technical-data/faqs

 

If i'm not mistaken you can send them a template of you transom and they will cut a panel for you

There are many products on the market that will work but  first and foremost is preparation. Dirty metal or too smooth nothing will adhere to it and will fail over time.  If possible clan out the inside of the boar and fill it with water  go under the boat and mark every place you see water dripping out. Rivets can be tapped tighter  but that is hit or miss. I you find a seam that is leaking you will have to clean the seam with a pressure washer to remove the dirt etc. scuffing the metal with wire wheel or sand paper  then wiping with acetone will prep the surface to bond any of the above items. Cabelas sells a green stick looks like plastic you use a propane torch on the area heat it and the stick  wipe it over the rivet or crack and it will last years. There is another product on Ebay Ultrafuse Aluminum Repair 25 rods which will solder the leaks. Please keep in mind if you shortcut prep  no matter what people tell you work al will fail. 

That is correct. it connects to the rudder feedback on the NAC-1 Box. Smart actually. the gear is driven by the steering measuring the wheel position, given during setup it knows how far right and left it can move you do not need a separate device to detect position. the only problem would be having a sloppy cable would give you undesired results.

This is the simplest and least expensive Autopilot setup i have found.  pair this with a Motorguide XI5 trolling motor you would be set. Trolling motor will hold( anchor) your position or navigate just like your main motor.  Lowrance just came out with the Ghost trolling motor however i is fresh water only. 24 or 36v at the flip of a switch  with builtin auto pilot features  

OK Great, I didn't mean to hijack a post here. I am waiting for my new unit to arrive and the weather to get above freezing  to try again, Currently i also have the engine out. Getting a NEW fresh 4.3L from the machine shop and adding Closed loop cooling to keep Salt out of the motor.  I will be scrambling com March as the boat don't fit into any of my buildings. Before Lowrance and engine issues I was working on a stainless frame for a hardtop. Managed to get the frame up and a fiberglass top made but still need to gelcoat and enclose the top. 

I would have to double check but I am thinking it was already done. I know the HDS units are indicating no updates needed.

Thanks for the post. Since my unit is being replaced i will have to do the configuration all over again. 

2- HDS Carbon 9

NAC-1 Cable Autopilot

SonicHub w/ Iphone6 for music

1 TotalScan transducer

1 HD 83/200 transducer

Bennett Tim Tab NMEA2000 kit

Lowrance NMEA2000 fuel flow sensor

Lowrance NMEA2000 fuel tank sensor

Point1AP 

Point1 (not hooked up)

Navionics SD Card (Annual Updates)  Used for mapping routes and navigation

IPhone10 Plus to download map routes Created and saved to the cloud

NMEA2000 Network  terminated at the Stern and at the dashboard

Ethernet cable between units

In the beginning of the season everything worked flawlessly. by Summer the unit froze once or twice, however July is when it locked up. I did not get to use it again until October and i already moved transducers to the other unit so i finished the fishing season that way. I decided to call support  during the winter because no down time and they can take their time troubleshooting the issue. I was told they are sent to Mexico to be repaired not that it matters where its fixed  but i expected much better handling of a +$1500 item. i will see in Spring how it works as Striper fishing starts around the end of March

According to Lowrance  Aft near the transduce is the optimal location for accurately marking wave points. I watched a Lowrance Install video of a dual HDS system with networking, a Point1 GPS, NEMA 2000 and trolling motor hookup on a bass boat and that was the recommended location. Because i already had a hole in my bow the Point1 covered it well. I do not notice any issues, however in Spring i am going to move it to confirm. I have a second GPS Point1 ( Not Autopilot ) if there is a difference IDK but they are different firmware and PN. Since i have 2 Point1 units i guess i could use the AP version midship and add  the other to the stern and assign the wave point GPS to come from the aft Point1.  My units are currently out of my boat because in July i was out on the Atlantic Ocean and my main screen locked up freezing my whole system, GPS, Navigation, Autopilot and Side scan Sonar. I was so pissed off the only way i could recover was to unmount the displays and move sonar to the second unit reboot. i since sent the unit to Lowrance after 2.5 hours telling me all the issues i was having. I wanted to pack everything and sed it back but they only wanted the unit in Question. A fuel sensor bought in July never worked. Didn't want to discuss that. sent the unit packed with the screen cover and the factory shpping foam paid shipping and insurance to Lowrance. A week later i get an email my unit was being returned. When i got it it was wrapped in a single sheet of bubble wrap, no screen cover and a box bigger than the unit so it traveled across the US rattling around in the box with a note we found nothing wrong with the unit.  Ended up complaining to the BBB and received a resolution  within 24hours. New screen, Fuel sensor, HDSCarbon unit and a new 2yr warranty!

Bit of a rant sorry

A rudder feedback is not required  with the out of box setup. If you follow the instructions  during installation  the cable steer unit has the VRF mounted already when you finish install  you rotate steering full left then full right  and back to center. You remove the VRF and line up the red dots. your Rudder feed back is complete. There would be no reason to have an additional RF at $500 unless the steering is so sloppy it stay on point. I had to fuss with mine and it works great. My only mistake was i put my Point1 on the Bow and it should be at the Stern

I use mine at Sandy Hook, NJ during Striper season.   You can go online to Navionics.com create routes and save them to your account.  you then can download them to a card and transfer the routes to the Sonar nit. if you use HDS units you can watch the video on how to to so.  I do not recommend creating long routes on the HDS unit as i have experienced where the route cut across land and i didn't see it on the small display. Lowrance recommends  doing them online. I have created routes from wave points while marking bait balls and fish. I would troll around looking for markings and create wave points for them when i think  i have enough i create a route and when it asks to use the wave points i select the ones i created  save it as some name. i can use that route to troll all day forward and reverse. you can setup s turns zig zags and  spiral circles if you wish. It makes fishing so much easier alone, or even better with the in experienced passengers. I can set 8 lines and sit back and wait for the rods to pop off.  when stripers would hit i stop navigation and just select hold heading to keep tension on the lines. someone always watches for traffic and if you need to disengage quickly there is a oh Sh_t button the dash its RED you hold it and your back in command! If you have the Lowrance HDS unit and i think the TI gen 2 models or Simrad units  this is the bomb. If you have any questions feel free to ask attached are Images of the new dashboard and installation of the auto pilot unit. you will have to open the back wall a bit and i just built a 3 inch extension around it  then mounted all the electronic boxes and NMEA network there. If you know basic wiring and can follow instruction you can install this all yourself save a bunch of money. The image of the fish was that girls first Striper and I attribute that to the electronics we chased these beasts for 5 years and tis year we were on them! Thank You Lowrance

I have the exact same model. I love it. i lost a cylinder head this year but other than that she sips fuel and runs well. I recently added new electronics and Autopilot. With the NMEA network I can monitor trim tabs, fuel rate and tank level from my HDS  Carbon unit. Just replaced head liner in Cuddy replaces all wiring and fuses to new blade style.  I had this out  on the ocean in some wicked waves and it did well

They doo offer a tilt add on  look for NAVICO and you should be able to find it. I installed  the cable version over Winter because as many mention when you ask someone to steer  you end up with a mess of tangled lined  I bought ming for $1299.00 in addition to a build a boat kit  which had 2 HDS9 Carbon units sound system and speakers along with external GPS antenna( not needed  autopilot has one in the kit)  and NMEA 2000 network starter kit. I can say I love it i can go out alone to the ocean and  hit a button to hold heading  set my lines and once complete set routes to troll . All you have to do is watch for others! I installed it on an 89 Penn Yan Tour 212

Check out Lowrance Website they have 2 models. I have the Cable version, there is also a hydraulic for those with equipped steering.Works with HDS and Ti@ models. Onece you get one you will not be disappointed!

https://www.lowrance.com/globalassets/lowrance/about-us/2019-lowrance-catalog-us.pdf