buckboardjr

I've been running a 19.5 GLS for 23 yrs. I totally gutted it and put new floors/floatation in it in 99. They ARE IN NEED AGAIN in the back. Love the boat . You did a fine job with yours. Here's a shot of mine running coppers off boards, Divers & riggers.  

Thank you!

Just curious, mainly to not walk in to a Cluster Gaggle at the wrong time at the boat launch and also to have a parking spot. Thanks in advance. I can't seem to find anything on the web. Share a link if you have it, thank you

9 hours ago, mr 580 said:

I’ve found boat parts at “great lakes skipper.com” - might be just as easy to replace complete fuel filler neck w/new cap vs trying to find a cap.  Not worth the risk getting water in the tank.

Thanks. Whole filler neck doesn't have access. Would require deriveting structure

Keeping it Reel. Is yours in the splash well? No hurry, but if you get the time and can post a few pics of the cap, I'd like to see it. And if you have calipers and can verify that the threads are tapered I'd really like to know for sure. Also is there an O-ring at the base of the threads that seals in the tapered edge of the bung. I ask because my research of Seachoice and Seadog  filler necks showed that they use NPSM threads which stands for National pipe straight mechanical threads and though I gauged my threads as being tapered maybe it is because it is a short amount of threads and even straight threads may gauge as tapered because of so few threads. Thanks

Thanks Keepin it Reel. Well after 3 trips to town/ marinas/ hardware stores, and more precise measuring, and calling Perko, and Marine shop on web, I measured it out to have tapered threads 1.70 down deep and 1.95 at the top with 12 threads per inch using a thread pitch gauge. Come to find out 1 1/2 NPT dimensions are that. So I did a search for 1.5 in. NPT plug with Oring and boom came up with this. Thanks all for looking. None of Perkos's matched up. Went to Johnsons pools and spa and they had them.

Thanks for checking. 

Yours looks like it's up on the gunnel. Mine is in the rear splash pan. Thanks for your input

After googling it, I couldn't fine much help. Stores having them don't give much for dimensions or thread pitches. My thread size using inside calipers down in the bore are 1.75 in. to tops of threads so if the threads are 1/8 in. deep, I think my cap's threads would be 2 in. maybe 1 7/8. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank

4 hours ago, lrg355 said:

If you hold the switch in the up position and it continues to stop after 10 ft or so, it is highly likely it is the internal thermal breaker on the motor.

Sent from my SM-J737V using Lake Ontario United mobile app
 

thanks

3 minutes ago, gasman2438 said:

 BACK YEARS AGO WHEN I SERVICED CANNON 80% OF THE TIME IT WAS THE THERMAL BREAKER MADE IN THE MOTOR.   AUTO. STARTER REPAIR SHOP CAN REPAIR THIS.  I HAVE A LOT OF OLD CANNON PARTS. NONE OF THE THERMAL BREAKERS SORRY.

Thanks for your info. I will try the spare motor my cousin gave me. 

Thanks. I have mine apart and being the hi amp power is transferred to the motor via relays on board, I now would suspect board as well. Let me know what the going price of the boards are once you find out . It was looking like they were over $100. If that's the case, I'll just covert mine to switch operated for $10!

That's good for me because I have a motor to try, maybe motor will fix 

Thanks. I have mine apart and being the hi amp power is transferred to the motor via relays on board, I now would suspect board as well. Let me know what the going price of the boards are once you find out . It was looking like they were over $100. If that's the case, I'll just covert mine to switch operated for $10!

Did you figure this out? I have one doing it as well. Exactly what yours is doing.I rewired it to ensure it wasn't supply issue. I just threw an extra down rigger on in place of it that my generous cousin gave me.

12 hours ago, dropemout said:

I will take this please txt me or call 484-239-8339

Mike

Sent from my SM-G965U using Lake Ontario United mobile app
 

I left you a ph message dropemout.

Bump.

1 hour ago, thork9 said:

Two face UV mag, the rest sounds good,

Thanks, I bought that one out at the Oak but not in Mag size as they didn't have

15 hours ago, steelfire said:

Finished up 5 days of fishing out of Oswego. Fish are all out deep. From 450 to 600’ with 600 being the best. Very few in shallower and even fewer staging out front. Meat and spoons were the ticket. Temp is at 70’ down. Many meat bites coming on the deep rigger parked at 100 with many spoon bites coming on the high rigger at 65’.  Our biggest king was 24 pounds with most in the high teens. Seems the fish are a few weeks behind schedule as they are still out deep feeding. 

Can you elaborate on the spoons that have been working? I'm heading up for a 9 day trip out of Fairhaven and my Spoon program was poor on last trip. My favs didn't produce such as:  Sea Sick Waddler, Carbon 14, Orange Tux, Black Ice, 42nd, NBK., Mongolian Meat!.

bump

Bump!

I had to buy two of these to ensure I had one for my next fish trip because the 1st seller drug his feet for a week and I didn't trust that it would make it to me on time. The best price I am seeing is $189.99  on the web right now. Mine is here and now. I am down near Binghamton, NY in Owego,NY 13827 , "NOT OSWEGO"!  This can be picked up there.. Can call or txt.         6 oh 7 -  For to 9 -  Ate 7 7 oh

5 hours ago, lrg355 said:

When I had a leak in my sea nymph I had trouble finding blind rivets (closed end) at any of the local marinas. I ordered them on line but had to buy a min amount. I believe it was $75 or $100. Bought the big heavy duty rivet tool at Harbor Freight. Lots of 3M sealant around the rivets and all is fine.



Sent from my SM-J737V using Lake Ontario United mobile app
 

I got some rugged ones from ski doo. $.75 - $1. a pc. If it were mine, I would most likely pull floor to investigate  and then during fix use solid bucked rivets that are cheap and better. My fiend bought a car wrecked Aluin boat cheap and we put a flush patch  with internal doublers 18 in wide x 3.5 ft up front in the compound curve area . Came out choice. No one could even tell unless we pointed it out to them and showed them the extra rows of rivets that caught the doublers.

I'm an aircraft mechanic by trade and Alumin. sheet metal repairs are  very common on aircraft do to corrosion. Especially bellies of aircraft near the bathrooms. Sheet metal is fun to do depending on your damage you could possibly get away with a bonded and blind riveted "Scab"patch from the outside or a solid bucked rivet scab patch or you may have to pull floor to assess and repair/ strengthen internal structure once you read how to do it and buy or borrow  a few specialty tools it might be a  DIY! 

20 hours ago, Yankee Troller said:

 

I don't keep track of that stuff, but definitely taken some nice fish higher in the water column. That being said that spoon was tracking in sub 60* water which isn't "out of temp" for a Salmon. In a few more weeks it wont be uncommon to catch matures feeding in 70* water.

Thanks for the reply and for the advise you provide for many fisherman. Will be traveling your way tomorrow to start my 9 day fish/camp trip. Good luck on on all your upcoming trips!

I'm curious how often you have caught big boys on spoons up higher, such as the one you caught on UV Yellowtail 45down. I have had 2 big ones, #30&32lb.mid day hit slider spoons up high while those spoons were targeting Steels. I also had another 29lner hit a diver on deployment at 45ft out. All mid day while targeting temperature much deeper. Sometimes it makes me wonder if they learned an easy meal might trail behind the prop wash from big ships.