orangediablo

GREEN Irish spring soap. Not blue.   Has worked so far in boat and camper.

ttt

aaaannnnndd price and availability of primers and powder.  If you were into reloading before covid, it was cost efficient, worth your time and beneficial, especially if you were stocked up on supplies.  Nowadays, those who are wanting to get into it, do the actual math (how many rounds per # of powder, price of shipping powder/primes WITH Hazmat fees WHEN you can't find supplies locally, availability of lead shot...), run the realistic numbers and see if the time offsets the time and space it takes to reload.

Buddy of mine is getting out of archery, and this is the perfect starter package. Parker eagle bow with sight, rest and stabilizer, bow case, six arrows, quiver, 4 broad heads, and release. All you'll need to do it adjust the draw length and cut arrows (he was 6'4").

$200

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What kind?  I might be interested.

Contact this place. A guy located out of his shop does reel work
https://captbobsoutdoors.com/

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Trt

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Don't need this anymore. Bought it used and had it reupholstered with sunbrella. Pretty light, so assuming it's aluminum and not stainless. $125.

Located in Buffalo area.

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Lansky masters edge sharpening system. Comes with four ceramic rods, triangular rod and eraser (ceramic rod cleaner). Moving towards sharpening stones so this needs to go. $30
 
https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Lansky-Masters-Edge-5-Rod-Sharpener-P544.aspx?gclid=CjwKCAjw-rOaBhA9EiwAUkLV4mRMnvYyoU6Ts3bAYiSIWy2HMw7wKt1ite6jBbBiLLU53IUBxqCZDhoCScsQAvD_BwE
 
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I haven't gone that far, but are using heavier arrows with heavier (125gr instead of 100gr) broadheads and have had good results.  Only deer I hit and lost was a high hit and not the best shot.  Not the fault of my gear

Keep an eye out. There's about a 15' log floating just west of port in 100 FOW. It'll definitely do some damage.

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Decent marks 90-120. Two hits, one dink.

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Sold

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I have one of these in 30qt.  Great cooler, made in USA, lifetime warranty.

Pm sent

I've had a break off or two with the newer cannons.  Changed my terminations to wire not rather than crimp and added rigger snubbers. The snubbers help quite a bit with the sudden stops of the fast descent.  Another thing to consider when lowering is using the clutch.  Yes, it's more of a hassle, but can control descent speeds and not have the sudden stop.

seconds if you can hold until I'm in the area

There is a process we did on a soft spot on the deck of our boat, a little over a square foot.  Drilled 50-60 small holes, filled syringe with some kind of resin and let it do it's thing.  I know it's kind of a band aid but was worth a shot.  That was two years ago and the spot we did this to is solid once again.  Might be worth a shot.  If it doesn't work, you'll be cutting it out and replacing it anyways!  If you want more info, shoot me a message and I'll try and find the link/video.

ttt

$400

O stainless bolts and staples all the way

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Got two big ol' pieces of white oak to replace my existing bunkers.  Should I be sealing these with anything?  Keep them raw and wrap in carpet?  What carpet is recommended?  In case is makes a difference, boat gets lifted onto trailer in September, sits all winter, and get's put back in water in May. 

I have a few pounds of tannerite. Many small pieces are easier to move than one big one. Just another option.

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Everything. Spoons, FF, meat.....

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Unplug it, throw a meter on the power side to confirm you are getting power.  If not, easy fix with the fuse.  If you have power, gotta look at the rigger.  I'm pretty sure there is a verified Cannon tech in Buffalo/West Seneca if it needs work.  Changing parts on these is quite easy though.