TyeeTanic

LOL, I was wondering about that subject title ...

Spro

These guys have lost it completely.

OK to have drug needle tents pop up in parks ... but ice fishing ... are you out of your mind, imagine the prostitution!! LOL.

Early or late .... they like cold water ... and we normally catch them higher up the water column (top 20').

No one likes the gas price ... but if you buy a boat, maintain it, insurance, storage ... and all that cost ... and then worried about $50 of gas a trip ... you shouldn't own a boat.

On 1/21/2022 at 10:50 PM, Brady95 said:

So do you run them off the back on each side? The guy gave me two bags but I’ve never used them before. Just didn’t want them to be in the way of netting and fighting

Most guys put them about midway down the boat on the sides, right next to or just behind the captain's seat. This keeps them well away from the lines. You just want them in a place where you can get them in and out of the water easily, and away from the stern for sure.

There's two camps ... and I'm not sure I ever saw conclusive evidence that one way is better than the other.

- the camp that supports bb snap swivels says you need the snap to optimize lure action.

- the camp that supports no snap ... they say it's just more hardware the fish can see, and it is a deterrent.

Personally, I go on the advice of Captain Dan Keating ... find the smallest ball bearing snap swivel you can get, and use that. For sure, you want stealth, but my opinion is, not at the expense of lure action.

I used a troll plate in the past, you really lose your ability to steer. That's the one big downfall.

I would agree with the others, drift bags are your best bet ... provides stability to the boat too ... if you have a bag out on each side.

Not sure about the specifics ... but some of these guys are on auto-pilot, and then don't watch where their boat is going ... pure insanity.

14 hours ago, ifishy said:

Dont run two spin drs/attractors on one side they are more likely to wander especially on turns so 2 on one side increase likely hood of a tangle I run an 8.5' inside and a 10' outside the longer rod also has less flex helps keeps things separated I have both rod holders in an 18 inch track. These days most of my tangles are caused by fish near the back of boat deciding to do a lap around them

Sent from my XT1080 using Lake Ontario United mobile app
 

We run two spin doctors per side all the time ... very few tangles if you take care of a few things. Watch the turns, and deployment of the outside rod correctly, often reduces chances of tangles.

On 1/7/2022 at 5:57 AM, Hounds said:

I did not switch subject to braid, people just started taking over the post.   LOL  NO big deal.  

I have decided to keep at the wire.   Related.....   in a pinch can twili tips be used with mono ? or will it "melt' the line? or whatever?  

 

I see no issue using a twili tip with mono ... in fact, if I had to guess, I'd say it's probably safer to use that then a typical loop style line guide ... the twili as you know puts a nice soft bend in the mono ... and it's smooth steel, so it should not abrade the mono.

I would say the best setup is a 10ft rod behind (closer to bow) an 8 ft rod (closer to stern) ... but that is not necessary. I wouldn't bother changing your 9 foot rods, but if you can get 10 ft for the back, that would be good.  As others say, space them at least 24" apart on the gunwale.

You want the dispey off the bow rod (10') to be running higher in the water, and farther from the boat. So typically we go 3 setting on the dipsey, and use a regular ... never a mag on this rod.  For the rod closer to the stern, we would set on 1, and use either a regular or a mag diver (bigger disk).  The reason you want this is when a dipsey pops with a fish bite, it will always RISE and move to the CENTER of the boat.  So the outside line has to be higher, so it goes over the inside line (rod closer to stern), and not tangle up the lines.

If you have the choice, deploy the outside lines first (bow rods), then the inside rods (stern rod) ... reason is, as you deploy, you're not allowing the dipsey to bite in the water ... so it has a tendency to dive deeper (think of it like it's sinking in stagnant water), and it doesn't pull to the side as much. Only once you lock the bail, will you get it to bite into the water and start pulling up and to the side.  So, if you deploy the outside line (bow rod) say after the inside line ... you could get tangles. Now some of us got real good at this, and have no issues getting an outside line out while the inside line is already deployed. The trick is to let that dipsey out SLOW ... so it does bite a bit into the water and moves to the side (on 3 setting).

My condolences. Let his memory live on in what you do!!

Unfortunately with deposits, and the money at stake ... these guys have to weigh up the risks of a forced cancellation.

My whole family got omicron over a week ago. This variant seems to be weak, we got a cough and a bit of nasal/head congestion ... but it wasn't that bad, we almost carried on our normal routine ... it would be at worst like an old head cold.

I thought this variant was a blessing in disguise ... if it builds immunity, than this is the variant you'll want to get of the choices out there!

Anyhow, I think everyone is freaking out again ... and society needs to chill a little bit, especially over Omicron.

Fourthly, lots of turbulent water behind a ball ... would probably screw up the downspeed measurement.

Fifthly ... shipping adds a lot of cost to the product ... lead is heavy.

Sixthly ... most people already have balls (that came out wrong!) ... and don't want to pay another $150 for lead ... and then you'll have arguments and need selection at 8 lb, 10 lb, 12 lb, 16 lb, 18 lb, 20 lb, 25 lb weight options ... to much of a headache. 

Sevently ... most balls have a ring where you can connect right at the ball ... so just clamp it to your balls if you want too (that came out wrong again).

On 12/27/2021 at 7:12 AM, sherman brown said:

i can reach 65' deep with a 2 oz weight with 65# braid and 245' of line out. i would think with a 7 oz weight it wouldn't be that hard to target 80' to 100'. i know for no more than it would cost i would be willing to give them a try.

 

yes, you're going to get blowback with a 7 oz diver. but with 7 oz of weight and the design of the diver it's going to dive a lot deeper than the 65' i get with a stock 2 oz weight with the small ring.

 

just try one with the 7 oz weight with the large ring and go to 100' of water at trolling speed and let out line slowly until you start bumping bottom (or not) and see if it's a tool that will replace wire for guys that's having so much trouble running wire. braid is cheap compared to wire and it doesn't kink like wire.

 

I'm not trying to say it's a better option than wire. I don't know for a fact that it will reach 100' but it is something to thank about.

I misread the post I was replying to ... sorry I was reading fast, and didn't realize we had switched to braid line ... the OP spoke about using mono line ... and I'm concerned about getting down that deep with mono, even with the weight ... there's gonna be tonnes of drag.  Yes, I agree if you have a MAG ring on a dipsey, or weighted ring on a diver, and using braid or wire line ... you can get to below 85'. 

On 12/28/2021 at 10:15 AM, LongLine said:

A single manufacturer can set the price for their product. That's what capitalism is all about.  A single manufacturere can sell their product to a distributor in NY at one price and to a distributor in Florida at another price.  He can sell to a high volume distributor at one price and to a low volume distributor at another price. (That's tier pricing or incentive pricing & it's perfectly legal)  Each distributor has a territory.  Distributors very rarely cross territorial lines.  (MFG will get PO'd & they do police that)  Only the very largest retailers can buy direct from the large MFGs and they don't want to lose their pricing deals with the MFGs so they go by the MFGs sell price.

 

It's when competing mfgs,, competing distributors, or competing retailers get together and set the price that it's price fixing.  Price fixing is very hard to prove as there is generally no "paper" trail.  

 

When you search for a product, they generally ask you to pick a nearby store or enter your zip code.  Surprise....they know what the product sells for in your area & that's what you get.  Another surprise, even if you have you location hidden, or run a VPN, they still know where you are and what you searched for.  (that's why you may get pop-ups 3 days later)  BUT the funny thing is...they know the general area where you are just by clicking on the site!  ("computer, browser, server talk", "IP exchange")  It takes a couple seconds to load a site....why??....(It's not because of switching or relaying)  .More & more criminals get caught every day that way.

 

If you find a lower price than what most are advertising for, then check it out real well, it may be missing something.  i.e a feature: a carrying case, a different connector, a different warranty, a different range etc, 

I'm listening to this guy!

By the way, here's my comedic take on all this ... with supply shortages on virtually everything ... I wouldn't be too excited about finding deals ... people are paying PREMIUM to get stuff. Just be happy if you can get your hands on decent product.

On 11/20/2021 at 11:16 PM, Sk8man said:

A lot of different ways to go with this but most of us use 1000 ft of 7 strand wire, some use 1000 ft of 19 strand. Basically the 7 strand isn't as kink resistant and may develop curly ques more easily than 19 strand stainless wire but the 19 strand has finer filament wires composing it that can break without noticing them and it is "springyier". It is also easier on the guides and tips of the rods.  If mono backing is used it is usually to protect the spool and keep the wire from nesting unevenly on the spool and a short length of 40 lb or so used (e..g. 50 ft or so). One problem with pre-spooled wire is you don't know who put it on  (and whether competently or not). The wire should be put on under even tension and started at the center of the spool and spread evenly across the spool. It is also helpful after it is loaded on the reel to attach a weight or diver without anything else on it while in the boat and running out about half to three quarters of the wire under tension (carefully and slowly). This will allow the wire to be evenly nested on the spool under the right tension and can save you headaches later on.

I believe the 30 size reel will hold the 1,000 ft of wire. The Okuma GLT rods should be OK for the riggers and could be used for wire but they have soft tip action and are not really the best choice for wire rods. Stiffer rods seem to better serve that purpose from 6 1/2 to 9 ft or so (twilli tip or roller tip can be used). Often if multiple wire rods are used the shorter ones are used on the inside the longer on the outside. The Okuma 20's or 30's should work OK for the riggers and many folks use either 30 to 40 lb Berkely Big Game mono or Bloodrun SeaFlee in 30 lb test for their main line with fluoro leaders or 20 lb or so for Lake O (can be lighter in the Spring for browns). Just suggestions as there are many ways of going about this with good results and depending on your wallet P.S. ANY wire used should always be kept under tension to avoid problems.

I agree with this, but a few additional thoughts.

I'd want to know how they joined the wire to the mono ... I wouldn't want that wire cutting through the mono line, otherwise goodbye to everything.

The CV 30D for sure holds 1000 ft of 7 strand wire ... that's what I used on all my setups.

I'd still go for the CV 30D for the downriggers ... if you're putting on 30# mono (which is what I recommend, 40# I find starts getting a bit too stiff and thick) ... you'll want a 30 size reel to get a decent amount of mono on the reel.

On 12/22/2021 at 2:48 PM, sherman brown said:

yeah, but the weight's what gets the diver down so why wouldn't the 7 oz weight kit you can get for the slide diver with the large ring should get it deep.

A 12 lb weight on a rigger has about 40 ft to 50 ft of blowback, when you try and hit 100ft to 120 ft deep.

(So you need 150 ft of line out to get 100 ft down).

How much blowback you think a 7 oz (little more than half pound weight) weight will have? Answer ... tonnes, you'll have a tough time reaching 100 ft without the right diver on it to assist.

On 12/22/2021 at 11:13 AM, sherman brown said:

i'll still never understand if you want to get deep why you guys don't try the 7 oz slide diver with braid. i can get to 65' with 65# braid and a standard ring and weight, and thats as deep as i want to fish or i would try the heavier weight. in don't use the slide feature of the diver. i just add my leader to the back of the diver.

 

In the middle of summer, wires often target 80' to 100' deep, on Lake Ontario.

I don't think slide divers are gonna cut it.

Wire divers and riggers is basically you're only options.

No doubt, manufacturers establish a MSRP ... and they watch it.

Sure there are sales, but often this comes down from the manufacturer themselves.

Cars, electronics, etc.

It's not price fixing in the sense that, you are free to choose another electronic supplier and pay

for something cheaper. A manufacturer may decide the sale price of their product, under contract

through a retailer.

23 hours ago, Hounds said:

700 ft?   lol.    I think I'm sticking with wire after all this.   LOL   

Thanks guys.  

 

Yeah for sure. We often have 300 ft of wire out ... with mono, you'd never get to the same depth, even if you let out all 700 ft. You'd probably snap on a heavy torpedo weight to help with the depth, and have 400 ft of line out.  Then when a nice fish takes out another 200' to 250' of line ... you'll start messing your underpants knowing you can see the bottom of the spool.

Now, if you want to do shallow water fishing ... sure, you can put on a heavy torpedo and have say 150' to 200' out ... say target top 30' of water ... it might work ... still, I wouldn't want less than 400' to 500' of mono line on the reel.

Everyway you look at it ... much better to have braid than mono, and even better to have wire, given the sink rate and smaller diameter (which allows you to put that much line on the reel, often 1000' is the go to length of wire on a reel).

What reel are you going to put a minimum of 700 ft of mono on? Not your old wire ones ... that's for sure.

I'd much rather use braid then mono.  

You won't get good sink rate and you will have a heck of a time popping a dipsey when you have 200 ft or more of that mono line out.

Anyhow, I think people use 20 lb mono, because there isn't a real around that could hold enough 30 or 40 lb mono ... at least not one that doesn't cost a fortune.

4 hours ago, jimski2 said:

The 40/50 HP electric motors will operate a 16 foot aluminum boat. Compare the weight of a couple tanks of gasoline and a 40 HP outboard and the battery weight and motor weight are similar. The Trailer boats are launched and charged at home or on shore. My 18 foot trailer boat with a two battery charging system is on charge daily even through the winter.

I wouldn't want to use a 16 ft boat on Lake Ontario. I've seen the weather turn quick enough.

2 hours ago, Chuck Smth said:

As far as the minerals mining - where do you think all the iron, steel and aluminum come from to build an internal combustion engine? Where does the power come from to run the foundries? People forget that.

Lithium is plentiful and easy to mine. We have enough lithium to power multiple civilizations. We have free fusion energy from the sun, you get enough Watts per square foot that we can power the entire nation easily with a few hundred square miles out in the desert. Of course, you'd want to de-centralize but you get the picture. Solar energy density is amazingly high.

 

Now, samarium cobalt and neodymium we don't have domestically. That's a concern. Samarium cobalt comes from the Congo and China. Neither is a good option. Engineers need to solve that problem, and they will. 

 

Chuck

Everything has it's challenges.

Solar energy in the desert works, until the panels are coated in dust. Then you have to bring water into the desert to clean the panels ... plus no way to recycle solar panels, it is a major contaminant in landfills.

Nuclear for now is the way to go ... minimal waste (although highly radioactive) ... but we can solve that with a deep geological repository ... or send capsules of waste to the moon.