BullGator

I use a separate Furuno chart plotter, and I like it that way. I do not want to split screen or have to change screens. With the 585 we can set riggers and see the balls and stackers on the screen from 10' back at the stern. Allows us to ignore the half-a$$ counters on the Brutes and see exactly where everything is set.

Windex and a microfiber cloth. Rub lightly! You gotta clean and lightly dry dry several times.

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That's what I use, works for me..........

After having a SiTex, Lowrance, Eagle and now the Furuno 585, all I can say is that it is an awesome unit. Absolutely love it. I know that you were not asking about the 585, but I cant help to say how much I like it.

Well, here is a current scenario that works well for my/our fishing boat. This is a three way partnership. One guy bought the boat which needed work. I supplied a new engine, and did/do all the mechanical work. The third guy supplied all the equipment -riggers, rods/reels, tackle, etc. It works out well. We each know our place, and none of us could do it without the help of the other. Dock-age, gas, etc., are split 3 ways. If the hull cracks, thats one partners problem. Motor blows? My issue. Rigger quit? Other partners problem. Its simple, and no one squabbles over costs/money.

I started out using the Blacks last year and had very good luck with them. However, since using the Chamberlain's this year, I like them alot better. But, twice the cost.....

Thanks for the heads up Nick, I am in the market....

Exhaust manifolds or risers is the likely culprit. A popped freeze plug will pour water into the bilge. There are no freeze plugs on the inside of the engine.

Done!

These are like new guys......

All I know is that anytime I was ever on someone elses boat, I tossed a 20 spot at the helm. If it was not accepted, they found it taped to their car or in their cooler or any number of clever places I have left it.

I kind of expect the same, but I also understand when someone can't. The friendship and camaraderie is worth more than $20 to me. I never ask for it, but if it is offered I graciously accept.

I have 10 GoodYear Marathons in my fleet. 6 on a boat trailer, 4 on a car trailer. The car trailer has a ton of miles on it, gets overloaded all the time, tires have been great. And no dry rot after 7-plus years. Ride quality is far superior than bias ply.

If you wire it the way you intend to, Your battery switch will have to be in the "all" position. This kind of defeats the purpose of the dual battery system......making sure you can get home if your main battery discharges. Like mentioned earlier, be sure to get a quality battery switch that has a maintained charge circuit to both batteries.

Itpossibleable tinternalraly your battery broke apart on the neg scausingeing the heimagineagin hooking a 6 volt batter to a 12 volt system.

Yep, that's what I was thinking........

But seriously....you simply had a loose connection to the battery negative. The damage (melting) would have been caused at heavy amp draw, such as starting the engine or using a downrigger.

If your connection was tight, and you had a short elsewhere..........the melting would have occurred at the short location, not the battery terminal. The terminals, when tight, can handle well upwards of 500 amps. There is no other point on the boat that can handle a larger amperage draw than those terminals. When the terminals are tight, they will not arc or melt.

Add some more criteria and I am sure the recommendations will come.

If the gas came from a marina, you should be ok for a year......but if it was from an automotive filling station, it will go sour within 6-8 months.

You should use a 12 volt electric fuel pump and pump it out into your car, lawnmower, my boat....etc. .....I have 120 gallons sitting in a boat that I though would be laid up for only a year. Its been 3. Now, it isn't good for anything, and what do you do with it then...... Life tends to get in the way of even the best laid plans!

Other than that, if you keep it inside everything should be just fine.

Convector 30 size with 1000' 27# wire works great for us. Reels run around $55.

You can make an adapter plate, I did to mount my Big Jon HD rod holders to the Cannon swivels. The BJ riggers will bolt up just the same. Shoot me a PM if you would like to see a picture.

Your biggest problem is now you know your "guy" is either a lier or ignorant, and thats why the guys on this list want to know who he is so they can avoid him. An honest guy would have said "Oh no" and then not much untill they pulled it out to look for it.

Well said........

The risers will be slightly warmer than engine temperature. As the hot (160-180) water rises up through the thermostat housing, it is directed to the manifolds. There it is heated slightly more by the exhaust. So they typically end up about 180-190 degrees. (Assuming in good shape, minimal scale inside) This has been my experience with Mercruiser and Volvo-Penta setups.....would imagine its basically the same for your OMC.

PM Sent

Having stuck rings would mean your motor wouldn't turn over. Additionally, that doesn't explain why you are getting water in your oil.

Brian

Not exactly.....

"stuck rings" is a term used when the piston rings are tightly compressed around the piston, rather than expanded against the cylinder wall. It happens quite a bit in small engines. The actual cause is sludge in the piston ring grooves, which grab and hold the rings in. It occurs at initial start-up when the piston is at a smaller diameter, slapping the ring into its groove.

The result is low compression, and excessive oil blow by. It will also spit out of the valve cover breathers as shown in the pictures. It will not be milky though, just oil color......The engine will smoke, and ultimately that cylinder will quit firing. Often, after the engine is warmed up, and started and stopped a few times the rings will "unstick", and she will run as normal.

However, that is not the case here. This is not a stuck ring issue. There is water entering the oil, period. There is a crack somewhere, be it in the block itself, the cylinder head(s) or the head gasket(s).

It can be argued that a head gasket may have failed shortly after you first started the engine this year. Although a rare occurrence in the small block chevy, it does happen, and the venerable 305 is no stranger to this issue. But if any cracks are present in the block or heads, it most certainly is the fault of the winterizer (the marina in this case).

Good luck. Be sure to get a second opinion from an engine builder of your choice, if they try to pass the blame onto you.

Bounce the rigger ball off the bottom once in a while. You didn't mention what lake you are fishing, but it works for Ontario.

Vince, I will take them if Rick passes on them. Just shoot a PM. Thanks!

Plan on keeping her more than a couple years?........Marine grade plywood should be used for the transom, two 5/8" thick pieces or a 3/4" and a 1/2". Not available at Home Depot, and its not cheap. Gander Mountain and other retailers sell it online. Its laminated with waterproof glue, and is chemically treated to slow down rot.

Like Big Dave said, you really should have drilled the rivets out.