I have a fishmaster 210 and purchased a 36V Terrova 72" shaft and running one single 36V Lithium battery. No way i was cramming 3 12V heavy lead acid batteries in the front. The battery lasts more than a day when running in heavy wind. Look around and research I pain 850.00 for a 36V 80AH Lithium battery makes sure its lifepo4 made by RJ Lithium from China with bluetooth..RJ produces a majority of the lithium batteries in the US just with a different name. You can spend hundreds more for the same battery. My battery works flawlessly going on 2 years. 

I have a fishmaster 210 with a 9.9 kicker....same issue. I Installed Lenco electric trim tabs...problem solved. Best investment.  

I use 2 Off Shore Tackle OR16 Pro Snap Weight Clip. The probe has 2 eyes one front and one rear of probe. Attach one OR16 to the front eye and one to the rear via the split ring. The OR 16 has a pin in it...set line in back of pin...you cant lose probe if line breaks. I attach/clip about 18" above my Dipsey Diver. Works great never had an issue.

Hi Guys,

Anybody running the Panoptix PS 30? If so, did you mount it like it is designed or did you flip it? I'm hearing a lot of guys are mounting it flipped? What are the pros and cons of each way to mount? Thanks...

Ok...thanks...that is my thinking is to move out as far as possible. I have the room to do it. Thanks and i will start from there. Any thoughts of wiring directly to battery?

I just installed a 50/200 Airmar P66 Transom mount ducer. I have a Fish Hawk X4D. My fish locator is a GARMIN 7610 XSV. When fish locator is on 50/200 split the fish hawk readings are all over the place. When i turn the 50 Khz off and run just 200 khz the readings are rock solid.  I spoke to others and they have no issues running 50/200 split as far as interference with Fish Hawk.  I have hawk wired to a fuse block up at the dash in front...i run a 15lb ball with hawk probe on same side as hawk transducer. Here is a pic of my back of the boat.  Picture to left shows Fish hawk ducer to the left and p66 to the right. Pic to the right shows trolling motor and i have room to move hawk ducer to left of transom strap near edge if need be. Any thoughts? i am stumped...Thanks... 

If you have one...can you post it? I am looking for the same...thanks

Unfortunately I have not had much success with the TD..I would reset it send it down...reel back up and every time it would read a different depth with same conditions..line out etc.  I sold it and.I ended up investing in a smart troll system. It is real time at the dipsey...rigger etc. Real game changer for me. Might be worth a look. The owner is a super nice guy and real helpful.  

I was always told not to run garden hose water on full when using the muffs. I use about 1/2 or less pressure. You can force water into areas of motor under pressure...i am not saying you damaged the motor...try using lower pressure and see if it stops.  

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Just buy a Ranger Heavy-Duty Hook-Free Treated Replacement Net at Fish USA for less than 20.00? Already coated.

I have a 9.9 pro kicker electric start with alternator and my transducer for fish hawk is near motor and no issues. Is transducer in prop wash...could be problem?. You can try a ferrite ring. Did probe work same location before kicker? Wire temporarily probe/head unit to a separate battery not tied into charging system and see if that works and you can narrow down issue.

Great Job! I love my Starcraft Fishmaster and you will love your Mariner.... great boat for Big Water!

I own a Starcraft Fishmaster 210. Great boat for Lake Ontario. Great warranty and tows very easy. Check em out...

Amen on the Itroll...going on 3years and works flawless!

I would look at itroll system. I looked at several and this is the one i purchased...works flawlessly for 3 years now and very easy to install. 

I have EV-150 installed on my Fishmaster 210 with a 150 HP and a 9.9 kicker. Kicker is attached to main motor by a threaded steering rod. System works great for trolling and using autopilot on kicker. 

Thanks for the info

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I am looking to purchase a new net. What net are you guys using for salmon on the boat? Need something somewhat tangle free.....long handle and large enough basket. Thanks.

Garmin 7610xsv. Take a look at this picture of kings working bait on lake Ontario. Doesn't get much better than this.   

You need to buy a rubber switch boot to go over switch to keep water out... buy from fish307...authorized cannon parts dealer. This is what i use..it is black...made by GE.. door and window sealant 100 % silicone.. available at Lowes/Depot and does not have acetic acid for curing agent.

Pap...here is my set-up. It works flawlessly with my Raymarine autopilot. Autopilot controls hydraulics and turns both motors at same time with rod in place. Both motors raise independent of each other with rod and heim joints. Buy 1/2 heim joints on e-bay and 1/2 threaded rod stainless. Cut to fit... attach heim joints and you are all set. Very inexpensive to make and simple. Will need kicker bracket as seen in picture....I bought directly from merc and will need HP6083 SeaStar Tie Bar Hardware Kit .   

Pap i will take a picture of my set-up....give me a bit...

Pap...do you have Seastar hydraulic steering?...if you do, they sell Sierra HP6083 SeaStar Tie Bar Hardware Kit...then buy 1/2" heim joints on e-bay for about 10 bucks a piece...buy 1/2 stainless threaded rod. You will have to buy or fabricate a bracket for kicker...mine is a Mercury and I bought bracket from them. Mount bar with heim joints to main motor and kicker motor with hitch pins and you are done. You are mounting inside boat..not outside boat like the crappy EZ steer rod. Motor will raise and lower independently of each other and will work with autopilot. You can remove rod in about 30 seconds or less. I keep mine together at all times. Works great and was very reasonable in price. Any questions give me a shout...