DannyL

21 hours ago, LakerTaker said:

Yes, your riggers slide on the block and are locked down by that thumb bolt. You have to lift up the bolt while you are sliding them on, then tighten.


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I was hoping to avoid drilling MORE holes in the boat, guess not.

Thx for the answer.

24 minutes ago, LakerTaker said:

You have "Tab Locks" mounted to your boat.  I believe those are for only for Cannon Lake-Troll, Sport-Troll, Easi-Troll, and Mini-Mag downriggers.....and might also have a different mounting pattern than your swivel base.  The swivel base + mounting block is for most of the large body Cannon electric downriggers.  You will need to remove the tab locks if you have the full size downriggers (Mag10a, Mag10, Mag15, Mag20, etc), and mount your swivel base(s) to your boat instead.  

 I had thought of that but to remove them I'll have to play with that big thumbscrew!! ???
 

I bought a couple of used Cannon DR a while back (OK it was years ago) and want to mount them on my Islander. Mounts were already installed on the stern and I had the "block" the goes on the DR.
I bought a couple of low profile swivel mounts thinking they slide into the mounts on the stern.....wrong.
What do I need to make this right? Where did I go wrong!!! LOL

TIA

Yamaha 1992 T9.9 4 stroke long shaft (20")

Ok so there's been lots of interest in the boat and I happen to mention it to my wife tonight.(she wasn't aware)

Her reply was "why the hell are you selling the boat?"

I explained to her it was a monetary decision and the fact we didn't use it much this summer.

Once again she replied quickly with "well for god sakes there's another summer NEXT YEAR!" 

So i took a poll was taken between my wife and two sons  and the sale was vetoed.

I apologize to those who call and PM'd but majority won on this one.......

HOWEVER the Jeep IS still for sale!lol

I posted about this boat minutes ago, but the time says it was posted at 7 pm. It is 5:25 now.

It's only time! lol

You have a PM

I have a 1997 Starcraft Islander 19' for sale with 3.0 Mercruiser.

Runs great no leaks interior clean but some of the t-edging needs to be replaced.

All cushions in great shape no tears. The hull is great, topside has a few bump marks from PO.

Comes with camper top, bimini and slant top (don't know the real name for it).

One of the side window and slant top need zippers replaced.

Always winterized and new oils in place. 

Trailer included, new tires and wheels 2 years ago. brakes are good.

Boat is presently in Chateaugay NY and can be see by appointment .

Reason for sale is I've only used it 5-6 time in 3 years and I hate to see it sit.

Price $4000 Usd 

Jeep LJ 2005 Rubicon also for sale $13000 usd built to rock!

Ok I have THE answer http://slimygrimy.com/ I had this thick layer of brown crap on my Islander and tried EVERYTHING short of a grinder.

Someone on a forum told me SlimyGrimy. 

I mixed as instructed and started spraying the bow and worked my way around the boat, By the time I got to the starting point the boat was WHITE AGAIN!!!

I don't know how it works, but it didn't even kill the grass the was under the boat! (on trailer of course).

Don't screw around, DO IT you wont believe it!

My Islander has a lot of T-moulding around doors that are broken and need replacing, I suspect I'll need about 50 plus feet.
Best place to get good quality product that will last?

Thx

Danny

I getting my Islander ready for it's first outing and was screwing around with my shifter.
I always found it a bit hard to move and thought maybe the cable was binding. I had the engine out last year for the coupler and 

thought I might not have set them up properly. I knew the bottom cable was fine but I never really check the shifter to engine cable.

So all looks good redid the adjustment and was moving the shifter while looking at it on the engine and noticed the kill switch

cam doesn't move as it's supposed to. It should momentarily move when going for forward to neutral and reverse to neutral.

Now the $20 question is, does it only move correctly when the engine is running or it should engine off?
I don't feel like screwing with it once I get it the water, but If I have to.......

Here's a video my son shot while I was operating the shifter.

https://www.dropbox.com/sc/arrpa6s2g3clrtl/AADm9gm_c3n-o18rwyBO9y_Va

Thx 

Danny

I have 10 more for sale. let me know

I'm in send me a PM with info please!

Soundown is the way to go,not cheap but very effective at cutting the noise,and made for marine applications.You can but it direct from them,although it can be less money at places like Hamilton Marine.

Here's a picture of my motor box with 1-1/4" soundown applied.it has a layer of 1/4"synthetic lead in it which according to them is a big help in noise deadening.

The stuff is pretty heavy..

 

http://www.soundown.com/index_Marine.htm

 

http://store.hamiltonmarine.com/browse.cfm/sound-reduction/2,720.html

 

 

 

I'd love to add that to my Islander but I don't want to bolt it through the aluminium cover.....

Any thoughts other than that way?

Your vent that's broken, You should be able to find that on E-bay,  Trim around your door, Home Depot or Lowes.  Your gonna have to build your battery doors,  Not hard to do.

I'll check out e-bay, the doors are good it's just the trim like the door.

I bought my Islander 191 two years go and used it less that I would have liked to, but I really enjoy her. I bought this boat on a whim and i usually don't 

keep things very long but this boat is different. That being said I'd like to fix a few cosmetic things that bother me. 
The trim piece around the cuddy doors and the battery doors are all broken. Picture of what I'm talking about attached,

There's also a vent grill on the side rear of the boat that had a fight with a dock (I assume) that would be nice to find a new one. 

Any ideas where to get these parts?

Thx

Danny

Did you get it figured out?

Haven't been here in a while so here's how things worked out. Bench tested the coupler, yes you heard me right, I had over 300 foot/lbs torque on it and it was fine.

So I put the motor back in the hole (35 minutes alone) put the lag back in, smooth as silk and changed the Flo Torque hub and it VOILA no more problem. Bummer pulling everything out for nothing but I learned more about the boats "workin's". readjusted the shifter cables as the manual states but I'm not sure the cut off switch really works.

Took a day run out on a local lake and goes pretty well for an old tin can. I did note that it really hits the waves doesn't really cut them. I played with the trim and think I have a good feel for it now, I'm wondering if those auto trim tabs would help the boat plane faster...... 

SOOOOOOOOoooooo all is good but not a lot of time to play captin' and the season is coming to a close faster than I want to admit, but there's always next year to really take advantage of it!

Thx for the help guys!

Danny

just because the splines are still in the drive coupler does not mean that it is not spun.  you can spin the rubber bushing out of the coupler and it will "limp home".  soon as you put the power to it...zing.  did you notice a burning smell at the time the boat would not plane?

No burning smell no rubber chunks in the bottom of the bell housing, clean like in the above picture.

I think I'm going to order a new **** and put it all in and have a happy life!

Bad coupler has no splines in it.  They are cleaned off when it slips, thats why wyouwouldn't be able to limp in.

Bad coupler has no splines in it.  They are cleaned off when it slips, thats why wyouwouldn't be able to limp in.

So you agree the coupler is fine.....?

Ok so I dragged my boat to my shop and pulled the engine assuming it's the coupler.....

Well here are some pictures and looks like I'm barking up the wrong tree!

Rubber  https://www.dropbox.com/s/z4w36azn5dibyl9/IMAG0227.jpg

Splines  https://www.dropbox.com/s/8e5wrilf2muspfh/IMAG0222.jpg

I'm not sure what a burnt coupler looks like, but I don't think it's like mine.

So it's looks like it between the prop shaft and the drive shaft.....

On a good note, I pull the leg and motor in about 45 minutes!

I had some old "parts" lying around that came in handy to be able to grab the engine out of the back of the boat.

"parts" https://www.dropbox.com/s/2acfw2wbcl2rtpp/IMAG0231.jpg

So the saga continues......

I was trolling a few years ago and my coupler went...  the coupler gears were gone, therefore, I could not limp in and it would not turn the outdrive, therefore instant overheating.   Now, I have kicker motor on the boat! 

I picked up a 8 HT Yamaha and I'm just waiting to get a bracket for it and I too will safe® in the future.

My priorities have changed a bit ........

Why would it overheat?  You're still turning the outdrive, otherwise you wouldn't be moving. It's operating as though at a fast idle.  

 

I brought it up because same thing happened with an old boat that had the 140 Mercruiser.  No good reason for it, just running along on a flat day and zing.

 

Did you physically check the prop though.  It looks OK but that doesn't mean that it didn't spin.  

I was simply responding to someone saying something about overheating. You are correct about if the prop turns the pump turns.

As for the prop insert I have a picture here https://www.dropbox.com/s/2un7k16chz9bnt8/P1030437.JPG

It has small cracks in the corners but that's it. 

While I'm new to boating, I've been building cars and trucks since I've been 18 years old. I was an industrial mechanic for 12 years and worked on pretty much anything that moved. I don't think boats are any different than anything else I've worked on except it's new to me, so i'm learning as I go. I'm asking advice and ideas to cut down the downtime. I share a wealth of information everyday with people (phone and net) about off-road vehicles and custom buggies because that is my real  business, I'm the owner of a 4x4 shop and but to be honest I wanted a change so I thought I'd take up fishing,...

Thx for your time.

UPDATE:

The prop is a Flo Torque hub and is in great shape, It was installed with the proper parts.

I drained a bit of the oil for the leg to see for metal shavings ar other surprises. Clean as a whistle,

Since it had shifted and acted normal at the docks moving it around , I was pretty sure it wasn't that.

Next, I pulled the leg, came apart without even a struggle. 

U-joint assembly (drive-shaft?) looks brand new. PO told me h had work done just before selling the boat.

I remember him saying bellows and bla bla (non-boat owner at the time ie:newbie) had just been changed.

Bellows does look clean and the collar looks new.

So I stripped the innards around the engine and I'm ready to dive in.

I'm ordering a coupler, alignment bar, hinge pin socket and trim sensors so far,

After researching a bit I might spring for a prop too that way I'll have a good spare. 

Turn out the one n the live well is crap.

I'll be dragging it to my work shop and using the fork lift to lift and spin her engine.

So any advice??? lol (other than don't drop it!)

Oh almost forgot, no the engine did not over heat on the way back, I was keeping and eye on it and it turns out 

so was my wife!!!

I changed my rag tagged line on the weekend and was trying to figure out a better way myself.

I had an electric winch on my last smaller boat and loved it....

I fixed the links of the prop in my first post, take a look and let me know what you think!

I'm leaning towards the coupler behind engine.....

Viagara fixes Limp Mode I hear 

Could be I'm not at that stage yet! lol

I think I have a spare in the livewell, keeps it fresh.... No that's where the PO stored it, wasn't a fisherman...