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JimB

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Posts posted by JimB

  1. If you want to control the deer population, you shoot does.   You kill one doe, you remove 2-3 fawns from the population.    You could kill every male but one in a given area, and he

    will be happy to breed every doe around.    

     

    You can't control a population by killing bucks.    Pretty sure this move is designed to control the population, not manage for more antlered deer in the future.

  2. Glad to help.   I think Canon is the brand of terminal ends I use for the break away leader.   If you don't find them at Gander, try Dicks, or Field and Stream (not sure where you live.   In Rochester 

    all 3 are within 2 miles of each other).    You can probably use one of them at the end of the coated wire as well if you don't want to order the "Klinker" online.

     

    West Marine has a kit with 6 ends in it as well....

     

    http://www.westmarine.com/buy/cannon--downrigger-terminal-kit-6-pc--316778

  3. Lets see if this helps.

     

    Obviously, you first spool the coated line onto your rigger.     Not sure if the new units come with the "new" Klincher kit or not, so I'm including a link to a site you can purchase spare parts for the

    subtroll.    Scroll down a bit (22 items) and there it is.   (It comes with easy to follow directions for attaching it).

     

    http://www.esgdirect.com/trolling.html

     

    Once spooled, feed the coated line through the wire pick up (picture 1 shows pick up zip tied to rigger boom), then through the pulley wheel and then attach to the clincher kit.   (Again, 

    not sure what they include at this time for attaching a clip to the end of the coated wire).

     

    2nd picture is just how I secured the co axial cable to my rigger boom.

     

    3rd picture is the "Klincher Kit" I used.   

     

    4th picture is my break away leader set up...

     

    Included in the kit is your break away 80# leader kit.    I used the crimps they include initially, but I apparently didn't crimp them well enough, as I had one end of the wire pull

    right through the crimps one day.   Luckily, it happened in the boat and I didn't lose anything.    Because of this, I ended up buying terminal ends for general use on downriggers from 

    Gander Mt.   I use the clip supplied with the break away kit.    Far more secure than the two (in my opinion) wimpy crimps supplied with the break away leader.   (The top one was crimped 

    better, and has held up, so I haven't changed it over yet, I would recommend just buying two terminal ends and skipping the crimps all together).

     

    5th picture is the white dot on the probe itself.   This is the "top" of the probe, and it is what you attach to the clip at the end of your coated wire.

     

    6th picture shows entire set up.    At the very top is the "Klincher Kit" then the probe (white dot on top) attached to the clip.   On the bottom of the probe is the break away leader, and then obviously

    the weight.

     

    7th picture is just the cable running from the pick up wire, to the display.

     

    Hope this helps.   If you have other questions, I would be happy to help.   

     

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  4. If the lake is calm enough, you can use your trolling motor to bottom bounce an old/battered cannon ball (I haven't lost one in 2 years, but other have had them snag and break off).

     

    Start trolling slowly with hammer head style flasher and a peanut.   Let out your cannonball until it hits bottom, and if you are really worried about losing it, reel it in a foot or 2.   You can see if

    you are hitting bottom by watching the bend in your rod.   It will rise and fall as your ball tracks over the contours of the bottom.    

     

    Some days you can catch more than you want, other days...meh.

     

    One tip I've learned.   Try to reel them in slowly.   They will come up quickly if you haul on them, and usually they blow their swim bladders and won't survive.   Then again, if you are looking 

    to keep them...haul away!

  5. I just had several cracks (longest was 2.5 inches) welded by a VERY competent guy in Rochester.    Charged me $200 cash.  Only issue was the foam behind the aluminum.

     

    They were worried about it catching fire from the heat, but didn't happen.    He did mine on a Friday afternoon when it was slow at their shop.    They have a ramp you can

    back up the trailer right into their shop.    Let me know if you are interested in making the trip and I will get you his contact info if he is willing to do it.   

  6. I have an aluminum hull that just started getting way more water in the bilge than normal.   While it was on the trailer, I just put a hose in the bilge and turned it on with the plug in.

     

    Found 3 small cracks that I never saw when just inspecting the hull when the water filled the hull.   

     

    Still get a bit of water, and I'm guessing its due to a crack(s) that are hidden by the boards that support the hull while on the trailer.   Only way to check is going to be finding someone with

    a hoist that will hold an 18' boat 1/4 full of water!

  7. Not sure if they will continue to do so, but the past 2 years Dicks/Gander and I'm guessing Field and Stream have offered wire combo's in the spring.

     

    They are Okuma rods and Okuma line counter reels, and I think they ran $179 or so (with wire spooled)?     As far as quality goes, I've had them for 2 years and no issues other than

    the twilly tips fall off the tip (not sure if they are glued on, or just pressure fitted) but a small amount of crazy glue fixed that issue permanently.  

     

    Funny thing about this sport....some would say $179 is cheap, others would say $179 for a rod and reel isn't that much of a bargain.  

  8. Bit of a late start.   On the water around 9.

     

    Started in 180 fow and had nice marks and bait as we moved out to 240 or so.     Dipsy's out 90 trying for Steelhead, and riggers at 90, 70, 40 and 20.

     

    Had a hit on the dipsy that took 40-50 feet before breaking off.    Next the 40' rigger went, ran for a bit and came up empty.    Rigger at 90 went, and boated a laker.   Rigger at

    40 went off again, nobody home.

     

    All this in the first 40 minutes, and I'm thinking game on.    Not so much.   After that, screen went dead for 2 hours.    Headed out to 350 with nothing to show, so headed back to 200 fow.

    Hooked a small King 90' down, and that was it.

     

    Surface temps were around 64-65.    Down temps at 40' was 60.    Didn't find colder water (50 degrees) until I hit 60'+ down.

     

    Talked with a guy who started out in 400 fow with 2 small kings and a steelhead right off the bat, and then nothing else after that.

     

    Boat lived up to it's name Blind Squirrel again....still feel like it's all luck, and no skill!

     

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  9. Noticed this last year, and again this year.   Guess it's time to look into the issue.

     

    Occasionally, when cranking my rigger just stops pulling up cable.   The crank continues to move, and you can hear the gear turning, but the 

    weight just stays put.   If I let some line out and start cranking again, it usually works just fine.   This happens even when running them shallow.

     

    They don't slip on the way down, and they hold a 12# ball without any problem (max weight according to Cannon).  The issue happens with 8 pound balls as well, but usually

    when I'm pulling those up from 100' plus.

     

    I'm going to guess it's a clutch issue?   I've looked on youtube and googled replacing clutches, but have not found a link that details the process.

     

    Looked at Cannon replacement part sites, but just saw a ton of parts but no "clutch assembly for beginners", and I have no idea if it's just one part that needs replacing, or the whole darn innards?

     

    Any help would be appreciated.   The thought of hand turning the spool at some point when it completely stops working is not appealing in the least!

     

    Jim

     

     

  10. For me, it was a great morning of fishing.   Launched at 5:30, back in at 10:30.  We went 4 for 7, (with at least 4 more "swing and a miss") with 5 Steelhead (2 boated) and 2 Kings.  

    One was a decent skippy, the other was not much bigger than the spoon).

     

    Best action was in 200-240 fow, 20' down on orange/red spoons.   Had one hit out 400 fow, but 5 of the 7 were in that 200 fow area.

     

    Temps ranged from almost 55 down to 51, with the warmer water being in the 200 area.   Down temps at 20' ranged from 48 to 41, again the warmer temps in the 200 fow area.

     

    All rods had takers, 2 on dipsy's out 70 on #3, the other 5 on riggers at 15-20'.    The bigger King actually hit about 15 feet behind the boat, at 5 feet down as I was getting a stacker

    ready.    Suicidal for sure.

     

    Speed on the sub troll ranged from 2.25-2.5 on all hits.

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  11. Awesome replies guys.    Waaayyy more to this than tossing a few downriggers on the back and heading out.

     

    Been keeping a journal of conditions and results we find, so will add this to it, and keep learning from it.   

     

    Longline, with "slobs" that deep, do you target the depth they are in, or will they rise to a bait?    Never been sure if I see marks at say 50, should I be set up at 50, or say 60 and 40?

     

    Thanks so far for the info guys.    Great site, and great members.

  12. 2nd year at this, and any luck we have is still mostly that...luck.

     

    Trying to get a grasp regarding temps (both surface and rigger depth.   

     

    I know that later in the season we usually get a thermocline, and I've learned how to find that (with the trusty subtroll) and I understand the concept of setting up a spread both above and in the 

    temperature break.

     

    What I don't have a clue about is fishing this time of year and what to look for temperature wise.   Obviously there won't be any type of thermocline set up this early. 

     

    Last Saturday out of Sandy Creek we did pretty well with the Lakers.    Surface temps were 55-56 in 50 fow, and rigger temps were pretty stable at 40-41 regardless of depth.

     

    Today we went out, and the screen was a desert.   Went from 35 all the way out to 130 fow, (5 hours of trolling)

    with very few marks, and didn't move a rod.   Surface temps were down around 50-51, with rigger temps 41-43.   (It was actually warmer out in the deeper water).

     

    I've read some of the recent reports regarding colder surface temps with the east winds, and people talking about fishing the "temp breaks".   

     

    To sum up this ramble...

    1) What surface temps produce this time of year

    2) What type of temperature swings on the surface equal "temp breaks"?

    3) What down temps work this time of year for Salmon?

     

    Have a ton of other questions, but this should help me get started.

     

    Thanks in advance for any insights!

    Jim B

     

     

  13. Fishing out of Sandy the past two weeks.   Have done pretty well on Lakers in 50 fow just recently.   No Kings sadly.

     

    I only moved out into deeper water after 4 tries in shore for Browns with absolutely no luck.   Same spread and speeds as last year that worked really well.

     

    Looking at the LOC leaderboard, there are only 6 browns.

     

    2 weeks ago surface water temp out of Sandy Creek was 51ish.   Saturday it was up around 56.

     

    Too early/too cold still?   Too warm already/too late?    

     

    Last year I was still running shallow at the end of May and getting decent Browns. 

     

    Just curious as to the lack of Browns in the Derby, as well as at the end of my rods.

     

     

  14. Was out with the wife Saturday morning around 6 as well.  (17.5' Tracker with yellow boards).   Ran various stickbaits off boards anywhere from 8-20 fow from the pump house back east past the creek.   Not a single taker.

     

    Headed out to 20 - 40 fow with the boards still out, and 2 riggers down 10' with spoons.   Again, nothing.  Packed in around 10 when the wind started to shift and come up.

     

    Zig zagged, varied speeds  (speeds were any where from 1.75-2.25 on the subtroll, and 2.5-3.8 or so on the gps so somewhere in between those two speeds I'm guessing).   Still nothing.

     

    Didn't see too much action from other boats, so was it just me?   Any thing wrong with the above methods anyone?

     

    Thanks in advance,

     

    Jim

  15. They may look ugly, but 5 gallon pails work great.     Drill a hole in the bottom, and feed a longer length of line than you will use for tying them to your cleats through that hole.  

     

    Then tie off a 6" piece of dowel to it on the inside of the bucket.  (I cut 6" lengths of an old fiberglass driveway marker).    This makes a "tip" line for pulling in the buckets.   They come in bottom first, 

    and when you lift them, the hole in the bottom also breaks the water suction, and lets them pop out easy.

     

    Only down sides:   You friend continually plays an air banjo and asks what it's like being cheap, and they will occasionally bump the side of your boat.   Since they are plastic, and I have

    a metal hull, not an issue in my opinion.

  16. the buggspray works great, we used it Sunday...

     

    I used the buggspray both on the lake, and in the Adks, and it works.    I won't say it's 100%, but it's darn close to 95% effective.    They still show up, they still check your ankles and feet out, but they don't land and bite often enough to really notice them.

     

    Again, make sure you get the "biting fly" formula, and not the regular mosquito repellent mix.

     

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Buggspray-Biting-Fly-Repellent-25-Deet-4-oz-Pump-/201130340577?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ed44d70e1

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