Meals-On-Reels

I rehabbed a late 80's 191 Islander (it had the current body style) into a clone of a 2009. Right down to the interior seats and outside graphics. My dealer actually took pictures when I finished her. I have to say I don't miss any boat I've ever had more.

It was deep, felt more like a 21' and I always felt safe, even on some crazy trips where I shouldn't have left the dock. I was stupid and sold it for a few $K more than what I had into her.

It trailered like it wasn't even behind me (even when I had my mid-size truck), and I launched/fished often by myself without a single problem. I notice the difference now. My boat is 3800lbs on the trailer, it is definitely noticeable behind my full-size truck, and is a chore to launch alone, but not impossible!

On top of that my 5hp Honda pushed it easily. Very easy to rig with all the space on the gunnels and across the transom too.

They were both gambles but good. My current Lake O boat is one of them. It's a 21' walk around. I jumped on it when I saw it because the guy listed it as "boat in excellent condition, motor for parts". He had it priced so low I could seriously re-power it and still be $15k below used book value. He had a ton of pictures and cared enough to tell me about little things like a snap that separated on the bimini top and a slight scratch on the aluminum tower/arch. That made me feel like he was legit.

Long story short... I dropped the lower unit, replaced the shift shaft and it has been running like new for three seasons now. I love the boat.

It's just such a gamble. Everybody treats boats different. Most of us on sites like these treat boats like an extension of our home. They are cleaned, detailed, and maintained. Then there are those that consider them disposable. Sun faded, rotting from rain with no cover, oxidized... These people consider a 10yr old boat that doesn't have a hole in the side to be "great shape"! It's so hard. Pictures are your best friend. If they're not willing to send you every single picture you want and more, then they're not worth the drive.

At least you're not in a hurry and hurting for a boat right now. Take your time and check out everything you find interesting. Good reviews are one thing but finding the boat that has everything YOU specifically need is another. Scan the launches and marinas and keep track of what really suits you.

Don't get frustrated and keep looking!

Boston Whaler or Mako as long as money isn't a major concern

If money is NO option... why not go all the way? Fountain, WorldCat,... Lol

Seriously, it's hard to label a brand good/bad based on general opinions. The price of new boats is crazy and almost every manufacturer builds a line to compete with the bottom tier.

I own several boats and my Creatliner is one of the toughest. It's a work boat, gets tied to barges, sheet-pile walls, and occasionally has been beached on the shores of the Hudson. It shows little abuse, but is also one of the thicker hull models they offer. They also produce a hull that's as thin as the basic model PolarKraft. They are worlds apart.

I know others have mentioned it here but it's sometimes hard to pass slightly older boats by. I see new aluminum boats in the $35k range and would still take a SeaNymph GLS or Starcraft Islander from the 90's. Those models were made for the Great Lakes and still are worth their weight any rough day. (I'm not just repeating what I've heard... I still have a SeaNymph and regret ever selling my Islander 191- that thing floated like a cork in any conditions and trolled fine with a 5HP Honda).

It sounds like you're on the right track by being willing to travel. My last two boats including by present Lake O rig, came from NJ and I saved a fortune. Sorry you got burned. Keep at it and don't get discouraged!

Still thinking...

There may be a 20A fuse on the main wire harness (there may not be one on the tiller handle model). Should be on a red wire.

Also, shift into F-N-R rather firmly several times. If it has a neutral safety switch it might be malfunctioning.

Ok- looks like you're correct on the year and that it's the "sailmate" version because the serial seems to agree.

If you suspect the engine kill button, you can follow the leads back from that button and disconnect one side then try it.

I didn't see it in the schematic but if you have a tether kill/safety switch, you can follow those leads back and disconnect one side and try that too. This switch would be less likely to be the culprit than the other, but could be worth a try.

Like I mentioned earlier, all of this is much easier to see your results if you grab a spark checker. I couldn't get by without mine.

Your main ignition parts on that model are: stator assembly, trigger assembly, switchbox assembly, coil (x2), plug wires, and spark plugs.

I will check and see if I have the service manual that covers that year. If I do you can test most of those components with a digital volt meter.

I didn't notice before that your post was directed more towards info on a repair center/mechanic, but just figured I'd post this in case you were still trying.

I just replaced my ProMariner that fried with a MinnKota 210D. I found the MinnKotas seemed to have more circuitry and "charging phases" (conditioning, bulk, adsorption,...) than other brands I was considering around that price. It was also funny how the MinnKota weighed about double what the others did. I think if you check the specials on the MinnKota website they are still running the deal where they turn the 1yr warranty into a 3yr for no additional cost. Believe it was running through June or July.

As far as cutting the amperage to one battery to increase amperage to a lower I'm not sure. I know mine gives 5A to each max, depending on how much they need. Even the ones in the $500 range from MinnKota like the 460PC don't share or re-distribute amperage. But at that level you're already reaching the max charge amperage probably. If charging quickly is your biggest concern I'd just search for whatever one has the most amperage per bank.

I don't know what Guest and ProMariner offer. I just researched The MinnKota line up to the point that it got above my price range. Either way, my 210D has been great for the few months I've had it.

Good info about the kill switch/tether cord. Definitely check that.

I'd also grab one of those spark testers from autozone/sears/napa. For $10-15 you get a 100% positive idea that you do or don't have a spark. No need to screw with the plug lead or struggle to see a little arc off the plug itself.

Post up your serial number off the motor so we can dig deeper. If it has coil packs you can test them with a volt meter or swap them out rather cheaply. At least with the serial we can check what's involved.

I would do the aux inspection but still don't know if that would keep them from hovering around me. I guess I just noticed it more this spring as I was reluctant to leave the lower river because the trout seemed to stick around later and be really cooperative. But with them just about gone, I'm ready to fire up the bigger boat and head offshore. With that, I usually only get pulled when running in and out of the launch at Fort Niagara.

Also, don't be fooled that the US Boarder Patrol isn't watching you even when you can't see them. They do track pretty much all the traffic on the lake and look for strange scenarios. They said it doesn't matter if you're 8 miles offshore or 8 feet offshore, if you meet up for a few minutes with a boat from Canada or something like that, you'll probably find yourself answering questions. I was guessing they just monitor radar from the way they were talking. Transport of people/drugs/weapons must be the reason.

4hp/5hp/6hp are all identical except the carb they have on them. Dealers, as well as Tohatsu themselves, will till you that you can make your 4/5/6hp motor any horsepower just by swapping the carb (no need for a new CDI box or a CDI re-map). This is similar to Yamaha that will let you turn your 4hp into a 6hp, but with them need the CDI box from the 6 and the jets for the carb (carb is same bore).

Tohatsu doesn't list the carbs for the 8/9.8/15 as interchangeable like they do for the lower HP so I'm not sure. But, being that the 8 and 9.8 have identical weights, their may be a way.

There is a dealer/repair center (Obersheimer's Marine) on Niagara Street in Buffalo that is great on giving out detailed info like this. He also let me test the high-thrust props before buying. Whether you stop in, call, or email, they are really great guys.

Have a 3yr old 9.8hp on the big boat and just put a new 6hp on the little boat 3weeks ago. I can't say enough good things about them. Actually like them both better than my last Honda.

Keep in mind they offer two different high thrust props if you're ever looking to switch props. I went with the less aggressive of the two and like what it did on my boat (pretty heavy for a 21').

Just be sure if you go through ebay that the seller is an authorized dealer. You will need their dealer code for the warranty which is now pretty impressive at 5yrs (good on 2013's, but also on new leftover dealer stock dating back to 2011).

I got both of mine through internetoutboards.com (which is the same as online outboards.com). No tax and it was honestly at my door in 3days.

Oh, and it's every Mercury 30hp and below (as well as every Nissan, and as of a deal in 2011 with BRP/Evinrude 15hp and below models beginning with 2012 production). Merc 20hp and below are 100% Tohatsu designed and manufactured, 20-30hp are jointly designed, but Tohatsu manufactured.

Glad to see I'm not the only one out there getting hammered by them. Again- not that I'm against them doing what they need to... It's just annoying having them looming over your shoulder half the day when you've already been checked several times. I've just been noticing I spend more time lately frustrated over them around me and less time enjoying the day and the fish.

As a side note... Be sure your throwable flotation device (either life ring or cushion type thing) has the USCG tag fully intact. The nearly wrote me up the other year because the tag was ripped down the middle but still said USCG and the type.

Also- what about the other weird stuff I remember needing (when I was a kid on my parents' boat) like an oar, a "bailing device", and stuff like that? Maybe they finally gave up on that.

Having trouble PM-ing you an offer. Maybe an issue with my phone. I'll try again later.

I'll try to dig it up where I found it on the USCG page. I figured it would be easy to find but I had to hunt around a little (at least a few months ago when I checked). They didn't ask for a few things I had but always heard you needed and said NYS has their own requirements so be sure to check their page too in case the Sheriff's ever stop you.

Has anybody else been feeling this?

I was still in the lower river the weekend before last (trout were still really cooperative) and got pulled by them 3 times in 2 days. This past weekend it was only once for one day out, but their other boat (I think it was the new boat they told me about the week before) seemed to be following us in and out with every drift across the bar. They kept looming around so close we finally fired up the kicker and trolled away.

I'm all for safety, but it really has gotten annoying when I average a 133% chance/day of being stopped while just fishing.

Granted- the yellow form I got after the first successful inspection stops the complete search each time, but it just feels strange.

Btw- I'm not in a horrible looking boat, have way more than the required equip, don't think (or hope at least) that I look at all "suspicious"... Just really frustrated lately.

Salmonite- did you buy the motor used? Almost looks like your charge system was an add-on. I only say that because where your current oval shaped receptacle exits the cowl, you can see into the inside and see wires, where usually it's water-tight. Looks like it should have had the square receptacle mounted in there and somebody mounted the oval one like my 5hp had. That would explain why they keep sending you the square end. Maybe I'm wrong, I just seem to remember my plug exiting the cowl differently, like it was made for that style plug.

The other oval end you have will work perfect, they just don't offer it already wired. Same result when your all done.

They don't make it easy and offer an adaptor which would make it so simple.

Good luck and let me know if you want me to expand on my other instructions. I might still have some of the cable I used if you want it.

The center of the male part pops out and has terminals on the back. Pop out the center part and set it aside. Take the outer rubbery portion to Home Depot and find a shielded cable that fits through the hole in the back (I think I used a 20A extension cord I found in black, but think the charge system is only like 6A so use whatever works).

Take it home and thread your cable through the rubbery outer part so you have like a foot sticking out. Strip it and attach a wire to each terminal on the part you set aside. Pull it back through so the pieces go back together and you have your wire/plug assembly.

The piece in your pic looks like its female (holes where the prongs go). The part number I gave you is male (prongs sticking out).

It's strange because if you judge male/female from the outside shape of the plug, it's opposite.

Salmonite- here's the part I had

#^*#@$- damn, can't figure how to link a pic here while using my phone!

Part was 31652-881-024

It's just the receptacle and you run your own wire. It comes out really nice and is waterproof, without just bypassing it and having wires hang out loose from the lower cowl.

Search that part on boats.net and take a look. It's $11.66. Still get me your serial if you want to verify.

Edit- Is that part 31575-ZW9-000 in your pic (square style)? So wrong... Sorry they keep giving you the run-around.

I sold the Honda so I'm not really much help. Sorry. That's exactly what mine looked like though.

Get me the serial number off your motor and I'll dig into it. Those guys are total tools at those places and have no clue. After a few times I just started getting my own part numbers off the teardown schematics. I've had good luck even with orders of 20-30 parts for rebuilds and stuff.

Oh- and thanks. We always ran our boat nameless and then needed one ASAP for a tournament registration. We were surprised we couldn't dig up anybody ever using it from searches online. Lol

I never speak to anyone, I just get the part number myself from an online parts schematic and order by part number online. Usually an eBay search by part number is even cheaper if someone has it listed. Never had an issue with boats.net or iboats.

I did the full install on a motor that didn't have a charge system to begin with and ended up just buying the female end section. Got the part # from Honda and found it off iboats or boats.net for like $18. It wasn't worth it to me to make my own (had wire/terminals/butt connectors already) but wanted it finished nicely after the whole install.

 It is one of those things that defies the principle of more expensive = better.

You nailed it!

I couldn't agree more with the Big Game and then P-Line (CX I think it is) if you're running fluoro leaders. Even with cost not being an option, I still can't see myself choosing anything else.

I'm just surprised how the lb test seems to creep up every year. I still run 15lb Big Game and think that's what we started with back in '90 when I was a kid and we first hit Ontario. My only exception is running 20lb Flea-Flicker spliced in when needed.

The Big Game is awesome... Never really seems to coil-up or retain any sort of memory, holds up from year to year if I forget to change it, is tough enough to keep a fish on wrapped around a wire dipsey or momentarily against a rigger cable, and is so easy on the wallet compared to other lines.

Inventory can vary from store to store, by my Wal-Mart even had one when I was in there yesterday. Most boating supply places and dealers should stock them.

On mine I was able to locate it on the transom in a compartment the fuel line passed through on its way from the tank to my main OB and kicker. Most filter housings have dual in and out ports. I ran each out port to its own motor. Another way to avoid siphoning if it were ever an issue.

Personally, I'd give it a shot. Especially the next day you're out there and there isn't a single rod moving and your losing your mind.

I frequently try some off the wall ideas when things are slow. One day we couldn't buy a fish (after 2 killer days) and I rigged up some of those huge saltwater squid behind a Pro-Troll. Got a few releases, changed the leader length, then boated a 12lb right behind a 14lb Steelhead off it.

Maybe on the right day you could get it to go.

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