rickv0315

9 minutes ago, stinger said:

I had to do a couple roller replacements on a 19' runabout i/o on a  Caukins trailer once. I did it my driveway and never moved the boat or trailer.  All I did was use a floor jack with a block of wood on the chime on one side and raise the boat a couple inches off the roller enough to pull the old roller off and install the new one. Just do it one roller bank at a time. You may need two floor jacks spaced out on one side depending which rollers you need to change. 

Yes I may be going that rt. I would probably be using 2 jacks if I did. I see you're a local guy. Tight lines!

1 hour ago, scobar said:

Launch the boat but keep it secure to the eye, then when floating wade in and un-hook it

 

 

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Thought of this too, just have to find a dock I can leave it at for a bit.

1 hour ago, Earl28 said:

If your not comfortable doing it yourself go to a marina and ask them to put it up on stands for you. Then fix the trailer.

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Yes I thought of that too. Just wondering, lots of videos of guys doing but with smaller boats. 

I have a 24' Thompson, its a pretty big boat, hard top and all. I need to replace some of the rollers in trailer. The problem is I don't think I want to put boat in water to do it as some of the rollers are completely gone and I don't want to damager the hull if I can help it. Previous owner put a piece of wood where the rollers should be with a rag over the wood.

 My question is is would it be that much trouble to try to raise boat up off of trailer to change some of these rollers out or do I just need to launch it and get it off trailer?

On 5/24/2021 at 4:21 PM, Yankee Troller said:

We're finding out that SI is a great tool for locating baitfish schools offshore. It can help you find productive water quicker when you're scanning 300-400' out on each side.

That would very helpful, thank you.

16 hours ago, seanc25 said:

Got out tonight 3-8pm. Fished out in front of the plant, 40' - 170'. Flat water and blank screens. Managed this guy though.

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Sweet!!!!

my son and I went out of Mexico point with my little 18 footer yesterday, cruised around for several hours. Zero zip nada, nothing was happening for us. We were running spoons mainly, we put on a flasher fly rig to maybe attract some lookers but no dice.

7 minutes ago, VooDoo said:

Have it on my Lowrance Carbon and have never needed it or used it on Lake O. Great for looking for structure and brush piles in the local lakes.

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Yes kinda what I was thinking. Getting a Helix for my big boat and I am trying to figure if I needed DI/SI or not....probably not.

Is side imaging and or down imaging really that practical when trolling for salmon/trout?

What would be a good trolling rod for browns in terms of length, action?

6 minutes ago, wrinklestar said:

If you have a kicker mounted off the side of you main motor you may get the kicker prop hitting the cable when turning to the opposite side of the kicker

I don't have a kicker so that won't be a problem, though I can see how it would be.

22 minutes ago, J.D. said:

We've been fishing 24" booms off the side forever, never had a problem... Scotty # 1099 Depthpower

 

 

 

 

Nice set up!

1 hour ago, Shakemsam said:

Generally 24" is only used of the stern.

So you want the short booms on back and maybe long booms on sides? Reason I'm asking is I want to get downriggers with extendable booms to keep cables from props and so fourth. Was going to get cannons with extendable booms for stern and I found 2 with 24" booms cheap thought I could put those on sides.

Do many of you run short boom riggers(like 24") off the sides of your boat? Wondering how, if at all that will interfere with turning at all?.....

Anyone run 150' copper on a magda 30DXT? I just purchased a 30DXT and it doesn't look like it will be big enough.

Thanks for the replies guys!

Thinking about trying steel wire or copper. After doing alot of research, I'm finding that...I still can't decide. I'm new to this so what would be the lesser of these two evils(I know there is nothing evil about either method) for a new guy? I'm speaking in terms of less headaches, easier to achieve desired depths and so fourth.

I appreciate any and all input.

21 minutes ago, Rich D said:

 

 

 

As of right now temps are deep, but that change with the winds. So it would be copper lines, wire dipseys, since the fleas are just starting, and will only get worse. If you have a full core, you might be able to find a fish or two up higher in the water column, again this may change if the winds blow out of the south or NE. You can probably find browns in shallower, guessing 40-80’, again depending on down temps in the bay. Coolers in 300-600’ is where you will need to be, so I am not sure what lengths you have, or are going to look at buying. A 400-500’ copper can always be run down the chute and you can run it at whatever length you want. Good luck, keep watching the reports from the bay to see where the temps are. If you have a speed and temp unit, then you will be all set!!

Capt Rich.


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Thank you for the advise Sir!!!

10 minutes ago, Rich D said:

 

 

Yes, wire with a dipsey, which you should use a twilli tip for, if you are not using a roller rod, are for deeper presentations. Leadcore will achieve a depth of approx 5’ per color, or 30’ length. Copper will achieve a depth of approx 22’ per 100’ of copper for standard 32lb copper, and the 45lb will go deeper. So depending on how deep you are looking to fish, will tell you which presentation you should be looking at. A little more info on where you will be fishing and when you are looking to fish will be very helpful on getting better info.

Capt Rich.


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I figure on going out of Mexico, or Port Ontario. As far as when I'm going to try and come up next sunday to get my feet wet so to speak.

1 hour ago, Rich D said:

 

 

 

Leadcore and cooper do not need a wheel at the tip top. Wire rods can be run with roller tip. Copper and leadcore are not used for dipseys, steel wire, braid and mono are used for divers.

Capt Rich


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Ok thanks for reply. I know kind of a dumb question but I'm just getting into trolling for salmon/trout and I got some dipsy rods and one of them is for copper/lead(sent by mistake). It is my understanding wire and copper setups are for running deeper water? I have a small boat and am not going to go too far out.

aren't copper/leadcore dipsy rods supposed to have a wheel on the tip instead of an eye?

3 hours ago, katy did it said:

downriggers should nnot be a problem depending on the structure of the boat. had them on my 16 foot . use flashers with meat head rig in summer . planer boards work early season and summer if looking for steelhead.long lines 100 ft . riule of thumb for dipsy divers at 3 setting is 1/3 od distance back for approximate depth using wire line.

It's a fiberglass boat, maybe later down the road I might delve into downriggers but for now I think my only options will be dipsys and boards. Don't you have to use different poles for wire?

17 hours ago, whaler1 said:

60 to the spin dr
20 to the spoon


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Thank you

14 minutes ago, whaler1 said:

Two dipsys. Slide divers with 80lb braid.
Fluorocarbon leaders. One with a spin dr and fly. The other with a speed friendly spoon. You’ll be amazed what you will catch.


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Thanks for the reply.what lbs test flouro would you recommend

Hello, my name is Rick. I have been a member of this site for a while but don't post anything...until now. I have a small boat, 17' 6" fish/ski. I want to get into doing a little trolling(weather permitting of course) for trout and salmon. I've been on many charters but want to try it on my own. Hopefully I can learn from some of you pros about what type of gear I can get started with. I'm gonna be using dipsy divers and planner boards, not going to get into downriggers with such a small boat. Any help/advise would be appreciated, Thanks!