jeffmac85

I'll take it.  Are you in Rochester?  I'm in Buffalo and can come pick it up if you want to work out a price without shipping

Try

How about $50 obo

Daiwa M-One Plus downrigger mooching reel.  Only used a handful of times, in almost new condition.  Looking for $60 obo plus the shipping.

Thanks rolmops, slow and steady if I do try will be the way I go.   I'm still not sure if I will try this, was just an idea I had for the hell of it

The drop down was my concern as well.   Thought about lowering it slow by hand by releasing the clutch, speeding up a bit might help too until it's set

I'm sorry.   1 300 and 1 200.   The used stuff id fine as long as it's in good shape still 

I'll take the (2) 200's

Thats a good point that I hadn't considered lightbringer.   I'm not super worried about dragging a walleye because we keep them anyway (an undersized fish goes back of course).   But im definitely not out there looking to intentionally drag and kill fish that is for sure.   We have gotten into the habit of checking rods every 20-25 minutes walleye trolling because we get a lot that don't trip the release or pull drag on the planers.  But I would hate to be that jerk that drags a Sturgeon or something protected or out of season around for even a short period of time.  

I'll bring scissors just in case lol.  Can't hurt to try.  Walleye fishing this year on Erie has been pretty damn slow 

I know some will think this is crazy.  Let me start by saying I will only do this walleye trolling, definitely not trout and salmon.   And also, I run fixed cheaters also for those who are going to say just do that, I do.   I run chamberlain releases on my riggers so my release is above the ball.  This leaves the eyelet on the tail of my ball open.  I was thinking about running a worm harness directly off of this with a 1-2ft piece of 25-30lb fluorocarbon with a snubber between it and the ball.  On my fish hawk rigger I have a good 8-10 inches between the release and ball, I think this will help prevent tangles.  My hopes is to possibly pick up a couple hitch hikers maybe every time I bring the ball up.   I see them come to the ball on my lowrance, so I figured what could it hurt, as long as I can keep it from tangling on the way down of course.  What are people's thoughts, anyone ever tried this?  I talked to one older guy on Erie that says he's done it and it works so I figured what the heck might be worth a try.

I'll take it if cedar doesn't 

I've tried the loop, it just untwists and spins the rubber band.  I will try a double half hitch and see if that works.  I was doing a half hitch, then over hand knotting the rubber band around the braid and even that was slipping through.  I believe this is cabelas ripcord or some other power pro knock off.  30 lb 

Oguck, I didn't get your pm

Would you take $100 for just the Cisco mounts?

We use rubber bands on our releases when we are walleye fishing because it's nice to be able to watch the stretch for small fish.  Also use them for fixed cheaters on the riggers.  The problem im having is because we use such light rubber bands and 30lb braid mainline the braid tends to just slide through the rubber band.  Wondered if anyone has had the same issue and has come up with a solution.  I've tried clinching the half hitch tighter to the point of almost breaking the rubber band and no help, tried loops in the line but the loop just untwists and spins the rubber band.   It makes it difficult to pop a planer release to switch baits around 

I'm looking to buy a set of used outriggers.  Prefer 15 ft.   If anyone has a set they may want to sell, shoot me a message

Boat is a 21' trophy WA.  It's pretty loaded down, we put a 112# ulterra up front and are currently running (3) 31 series deep cycles up in the bow of the cuddy until our 36V 200AH lithium cell shows up.   Plus a 15hp Honda kicker on the back pushing (I would think with this double pushing/pulling motor setup when trolling the boat itself really shouldn't be crabbing much but I guess it's possible).  When you say widen them do you mean the space between the 2 boards?  Making the gap between the 2 boards 16"?   This would involve making new crossmember braces which isn't a problem, just want to make sure I'm understanding.  We tried moving the tow bolt 1" down and 1" back as per Frank at amish outfitters recommendation, however that really didn't seem to have any effect at all, that's when he sent us the rudders to try.  Those seemed to help a bit but the issue is still there.  Also, yes we run the snubbers that came with the boards.

I have been battling an issue that I'm hoping maybe some of you guys may have dealt with and maybe have a solution to.   I mainly walleye fish Lake Erie and some spring browns early season before walleye opener also.  Just this past year we switched to full sized planers and mast (great lakes planes mortar launcher and reels setup) from inline boards mainly because we didn't like fighting the board and they were a pain with any rookies in the boat who weren't used to them.   We are running amish outfitter boards both now have the additional rudder that Frank supplied us that he told us might help.   The issue we are having is in the wind and anything greater than a 1' chop one side board always ends up almost behind the boat while the other side is out where it should be.   I'm assuming this is from the wind crabbing either the boat or the wind side planer towards the boat.  We run anywhere from 1.8-2.5 at the ball (surface speed varies of course) but I didn't think this would be too slow to run these boards after hearing everyone online tout how hard they pull.  Im inquiring on here about a set of used otter boats in hopes that maybe that type with a double keel will track better for us in the wind and a bit of a chop.  We never run more than 2 rods per side with 6-7 colors of lead at most per rod, so they definitely aren't being overloaded either.  Sorry for the long winded post, hopefully someone here has a magic solution for me 

Looking for a set as well, double keels preferably 

Still available?    I'll take them for $30 if that works for you 

I am in Buffalo, shoot me a message and I'll get you my cell number.  Maybe you can text me some photos and we can work out a way to get it fixed.  It's a bit of a pain to get the reel seats loose but I've done a bunch before.   We can put a new handle on from the back side too so you don't technically have to rewrap any guides.  I do a ton of reel seats and butt caps for Danny, he's a great guy but you will wait a long time if you can even get him to agree to do a repair for you.  He's just too busy.  It's a fairly straight forward fix really, if you are so inclined I could even show you how to do it on your own on a piece of threaded rod with a hand drill.  I know a lot of guys who have done handles this way before they bought a lathe.  

I may be able to help you out 

Whereabouts are you? 

I'm interested

Would you take $50 and I can pick them up Saturday, I'm in Cheektowaga so not far at all