Bozeman Bob

Personally I would start by buying a new starter motor . Your current starter may have a dead spot on the brushes. Can't hurt to have a spare starter motor if that is not the issue.

If you have a FFinder that shows your weights on the screen , there is no need for a depth counter . The screen doesn't lie , and it's more accurate than your counter with or without blowback. 

300 RPMs is pretty close , switching the props is all I can think of .None  of the 4 boats that I have owned with dual engines had the same top RPMs .Always off a couple hundred RPMs. That's all I got . 

I would do a compression test on both motors and compare numbers . Then I would try swapping props . I would verify the tachs with a tachometer as well . Next make sure your throttle cable is moving the motor lever to the end . Other than that I might post this question in Iboats or The Hull Truth as there are more outboard motor people there vs this site . 

21* is what you want for Ontario. Going and coming from rough water this is much better than 10-* or so that will pound you to death instead of cutting through the slop . If she rolls too much in the ditch, buy a pair of trolling bags . They will " plant " the boat and keep the roll to a minimum. 

If you get no replies here I would post the question in  Iboats.com  go to the Johnson Evinrude forum , also in the future  post the year of motor . .  

They do have there place and grew in popularity and size because of warm salt water fishing. Fast to run 80 miles to the canyons in a hour and a half hours instead of 4 , think tourney fishing. Disposable quick engine replacement time vs inboards, fish from any spot on the boat for most species and a bunch of other things. 

    Lake O with the long spring we have is not warm , dry or hospitable. So give me a hardtop with enclosure that breaks the wind and is always warmer , a place to change ,have dry clothes , store my gear out of the sun and elements etc . There is no reason to fish off the boat at any other place than the stern deck area for Lake O and Kings . And with the windows and eisenglass open it's as cool on a hot day as the miniscule shade you get from  a CCs T-Top. Which  is good for one person. Don't see any Charters on O  running them for a bunch of reasons. Again they have there place and are great boats , just not for King hunting on O . 

A 4 stroke will have more torque than a 2 stroke if the same prop rated HP . You should be within at least 80% of the rated HP for your boat . Otherwise you end up working the underpowered motor to death . Cruise at 35mph @ 4500 RPMs with a 150 . With a 175 or larger you may be running 3800 RPMs . I pulled those numbers out of the sky , just noting there will be a big difference, especially with a decent load in the boat . I would go with the biggest HP up to the max that I could afford. 

If your insuring the boat you may be required to have a recent survey by a accredited surveyor. Check with insurance company. If I was spending more than 10- 15 grand I would have it survived for my own piece of mind , regardless of my knowledge of boats , cores , stringers , boat construction, engine reliability and reputation.  It used to be around 20 per foot , not sure what it is now , well worth it . 

I've bought 3 , all over 27' with dual straight inboards. Newest is a 96. Never had a issue with wiring or drive train because of salt water . All have closed cooling systems and 2 of the 3 were from the NJ and Conn. 1 from Fla. All wiring looks the same as fresh water wiring of the same age . A I/O I wouldn't purchase. 

MichiganMotorz , buy a 502 , everything should mate up without having to upgrade drive shaft or tranny .  Changing props isn't going to do anything, all your doing is robbing from one end ( example, top speed ), and giving it to the other ( hole shot ) . You need HP and matching torque numbers , not a 350 turned into a 383 stroker for example. That setup will show more HP but torque numbers down a bit and you have that block tweaked out to the maximum,think longevity. Vs a 502 that's just purring along with big ass pistons providing all the torque numbers you need . 

What exactly is not working ? 

And you should be replacing the prop based on your RPM numbers , what the max RPM the motor is rated for vs what your seeing now with a average load in the boat . Without those numbers all your doing is guessing, and blowing money . 

On 5/7/2023 at 8:52 AM, sherman brown said:

if your RPMs are going up but the boat isn't going faster it's a good bet the hub is bad. i can't think of any other reason that would account for this. I would think if it was the lower unit you could hear the gears grinding. the  1st thing I would do is put my spare prop on if I had one and see what it did. if you don't have a spare I would be getting one. but you can take it or ship it to a prop shop and have them check it and replace it if the hub is bad. if it has a flo torx hub kit you can tell if the corners are rounded off. if it's bad just get a new kit and replace the square insert.

Actually he could have a spun drive shaft  coupler. If OP marks the prop and includes the hub in the process all he has to do is run it , get it to " slip " then check the marks , if not lined up it's the prop . If still lined up the only thing left is the engine coupler to the drive shaft of the out drive.

Charter Insurance required the survey to be done by a current member of SAMS or the other agency that gives  certification ( Can't remember that moniker / association . ) 

The Scotty's look like they are 2 - 3 times the footprint of a Magnum Metal . 

On 3/26/2023 at 10:42 AM, BRsnow said:

They look really nice and the owner was quick to respond , they do offer braid options,

Have 3 on one of my boats , compact , pivoting boom , simple clutch design , everything is made very well . Have performed 100% going on 4 years . Also have 3 Traxstech on another boat , more features ( soft start and stop I love ) and a lot more money , there on a Charter boat . Have 2 Cannons on 17' Lund , and are the most " bulky " of the 3 and has the fixed booms which I am not a fan of . Basic weekend warrior ? Get the Magnum's . Hitting it hard and deep pockets ? Go Traxstech . 

1 hour ago, Finnagain said:

I only get to the lake once a year for spring loc derby , hoping that changes in a few years but I always watch the weights of all derbies through out the season and so many winning fish are separated by 1-ounce . It seems like at least a metal detector should be used before checks are given out ( maybe they are ?)Some other tournaments are combined fish totals but  an inexpensive metal detector waved over fish at weigh ins would certainly give everybody some piece of mind they didn’t lose to lead or tungston cheater. 

  Anyone with half a brain is going to use lead sinkers , looks more natural as in " must of been fouled hooked before and ate the sinker " which is heavier than steel and won't show up with a metal detector. Any Charter Captain in a tournament is not going to bend any rules or cheat , there reputation is worth a lot more than ever being accused of cheating . One team on a tournament trail out of the how many thousands of teams that do tourneys cheat and now this has to be even discussed is numbing.  Leave it as is and let the organizers handle it . All the tourneys on Ontario are above board . 

Each tourney , derby is run by a different entity . So it's up to each one of them to change any rules for there own event . I personally do not foresee any of O's events rules being changed because of what happened in Walleye tourney series that is much different animal than O's individual tournaments or derbies . If they want to cut open every fish that is weighed in say in a Lake wide derby that might last for 2 - 4 weeks or the whole season it isn't easy to control . I've had gas jockeys weighing fish who didn't know the species and why should they ? Could go on and on. Don't think one isolated team of cheaters is going to affect the rules on Ontario tourneys . Organizers can decide themselves if they want to open them up for inspection at weigh in which I believe are already in there rules .

I would Google a schematic for it and see if it is a replaceable part . Might want to break down any other bases you have like that and re- tighten using a light or medium grade lock tight . I have seen many cannon bases that are wobbly until I chastise the owner of the boat to repair them before everything goes to Davey's locker .

6 hours ago, Yankee Troller said:

The question comes down to if you EVER want to put radar to the unit/system? If that answer is "No" then you can get away with an ECHOMAP model (7, 9, 10, & 12" screens). If you want that option then you'll want to look into the GPSMAP series (7, 9, &12" screens)

 

I can help you determine the right transducer for your boat as well. I just need to know what kind of boat you have. 

 

I work at Krenzer Marine and stock most of this. I will also have a large booth at the Niagara EXPO selling electronics and fishing equipment.

Please put radar on your boat if you fish Ontario . I cannot believe the IDIOTS that leave port in a fog or get caught in one that are in small boats without radar . It's a death wish for you to be out there without radar in a fog . And it's not fun when I am looking at my radar and some IDIOT without radar is on a fast collision course heading towards my boat . You are also out there in Lake Freighter shipping lanes , they ain't stopping or moving when your little blip shows up on there screen . My million dollar question is , what's your life worth ? Less than 1,500 then skip radar . Mine is worth more so I have it on my boats . 

4 Mile State park has those Utes for around 40.00 per night . Heat ,air , fridge , sleeps about 6-8 people ,one big octange type tent on a wooden platform . Then rent a slip at the state park in Wilson .

Dublin Up Marine may have one , give Carl a call . 

The motors are basically windshield wiper motors , they do not draw much amperage the.way they are geared . Run a separate deep cycle and charge it when sitting in your driveway . 

Why in the world would you want to replace it with obsolete stuff , that drive hasn't been made in 30 years . Going to be a major head ache . V - 8 volvos are GMC engines with Volvo exhaust manifolds and that's about it . I would find a donor boat and go Mercruiser for the outdrive . At any rate your outdrive hole will probably need some fabrication for a replacement drive