juthunter32

20lb Berkley big game on size 30 reels is all you need, minimum 250 yards but prefer 300+. Wire dispy just 30lb wire, can fit a full 1000ft on size 30 reels with just a tiny bit of mono or Dacron on the bottom for cushion n to prevent spin. I like 19strand myself but 7 strand is fine too. Medium to medium heavy rods are fine but mediums are more standard. Reels with good drags are the main issue.

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Stingray size for Michigan stinger s are more the norm and then the mag size...stingers mostly browns and steelies.

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Get a ratcheting rod holder or you'll lose more fish than you'll catch. Very difficult to get out of holders otherwise. Rod trees great for planer rods. Pick up some Bert's, Cisco, or Cannon ratcheting holders and mount them on tracks big enough for two to three holders and you'll be very happy you did. I run Cannon dual axis holders and love them!! If your planning mostly browns skip dipsys and run your planers and riggers and leadcore. Salmon then get the dipsys 150%

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I have older mag 10as that still work great without positive Ion and short stops. The motors are no longer available but I found a place to rebuild or replace them with windshield wiper motors so I figured no need for 4 riggers on a 22' with a 7ft beam. I have three Scotty pro packs on my 27ft sportcraft so don't need 7 riggers only reason I'm listing them.

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I had a tackle shop in wynantskill go through them last year n test the motors and check the gear shafts n lube. Everything was good. Also this model you can still get replacement parts for them through fish307.com including the motors. Only thing obsolete is the lexan frames so just take care of the bodies and they will last quite a few years.

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Yes. Depends on your balls wether you need the insulators or not.

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Lowest I'd go is $300 but I'll take wire off one of them. Still give you a brand new Terminator clip, swivel and the pulls.

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250ft I believe, Cannon current style terminations. I have the rope pulls as well just haven't put them on yet.

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Can get better ones tomorrow but this is them on my boat

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Adirondacks near speculator.

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Can meet anywhere from Albany to Mexico. Still for sale.

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I have a pair of Cannon Mag 10s with 4 ft booms. New wire on both and new drag bearings and washers. They are positive Ion, and are rated for up to 10lb weights. No mounts. Can meet anywhere from Albany to Mexico. $350 for the pair. Will post photos tomorrow.

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Have someone push the roof side to side while you are looking at the mounts at bottom and top and see where the most play is. I bet you'll notice it's in those upper mounts, could just need some tightening or possibly thru bolting.

What about having tubes made to mimick the ones that are vertical and applying on the top of the roof thru bolting the roof mounts to the new tubes. Could mount lights or light bar on the front tube. The rear looks like you have a rod Arch already for rocket launcher but does that Arch connect from upright to upright? Or does it utilize the roof. The roof without a substructure being aluminum could flex in the middle allowing movement and I'd imagine that hanging dash adds a lot of weight to the aluminum roof. The flexing of that would mean the roof is "buckling" in the middle when the movement happens.

Yeah and once those roof mounts get loose the forces applied with keep making it worse. Stress cracking and screws pulling through. Like a roll cage for a car, I believe there should be cross members going horizontal from front left to front right and back left to back right. This provides the rigidity then slap the fiberglass roof on top. Unfortunately alot of tops don't do this and rely heavily on the fiberglass to provide the rigidity. Adding horizontals to the structure may be necessary if the fiberglass is weakened.

I'd imagine the problem is where it connects to the roof. If they aren't rigid then you would get the sloppiness. The mounts to the boat are just receiving the secondary stresses due to the sloppiness at the roof. Check those connection's and take a closer picture of those so we get a better idea of how it mounts there.

I'd run 20lb main line and bounce to 30 if the fleas are crazy but from the days I've been out your checking rods every 30-45 mins or reeling in a fish so the fleas never seem to accumulate all that bad. Everyones suggestions are good. I'd say only thing to focus on buying is a fishhawk speed and temp system. Also look for the current "hot items" people are running and you'll be in the fish in no time! Good luck!

Keep 10 a day from the Hudson River during April and May, find a friend on stripers247.com n trade a trip if can't make it down there for a few trips. Also Atommik has good quality bait. His are Pacific herring supposed to be a lil oilyer than the Atlantic. Brine then freeze.

I'd suggest small size trolling bags over adding a kicker in your instance. Both my 22ft and my 27ft sportcraft have no kickers and can get proper speeds using bags. You may find you'll only need one on some days, others two. For your boat get the smallest size bags. If possible use them off your bow cleats and put the port side in first because most outboards steer towards driver's side when you let go of wheel. Help counter it a bit.

You want standard stinger size also scorpion size has it's days too

Talked about making one for my Sylvan offshore and was told by a few boat builders you need to consider how much weight and force the hard top would be and the buoyancy and stability of the boat. Alot of boats have ballast in the bottom to compensate for this. Also the connection points where the top mounts to gunnels and how much strength is there. I think a t top style with removable strataglass or eisnglass panels would be less likely to cause issues. Especially if the ttop is removable or folding down for travel on highways.

I have a magma kettle grill with the rail mount and works great, the track mount would be sweet too and imagine would be stiffer but if I tighten the rail mount appropriately then have had no issues. Here's a similar setup

Bloodrun they are talking about being an equivalent in that it attains depths similar to that of copper. Copper obviously is a solid choice for a material if you can have multiple designated rods for the different lengths required to obtain the various depths. Have you ever backed your 200 or 300 copper with wire to see if the same principles apply to your product? As with any product every option has unique properties that make it more suitable at various times. It's all about having a vast arsenal to achieve maximum daily success. No one is saying that it is the same product as copper, or performs the same identically as copper but it gives novices and experts alike another option for controlled depth presentations without the expense of multiple reel and or rod setups.

Also in the pickup tube the 90 degree fitting comes apart and their is a small mesh filter that plugs as well. Also consider how old the main fuel line is! My main fuel line was bad on the inside and would suck it's self closed at higher RPMs and eventually at all RPMs . Date is printed on the fuel line itself along with fuel line type. Should check fuel line regardless if it's an ignition issue to to prevent future problems.

Yeah, the boat was looked over by a surveyor he seemed to think it was the gel coat from the older stuff being so thick and said no structural issue but I'm thinking if I sand it all real well and clean it I could put 3 coats of the tuff coat and it'd be flexible enough to withstand any flexing. Also the tuff coat can be reapplied easily to creat a thicker covering if it does crack again. Supposedly called gel coat crazing.