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1lastweekend

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Posts posted by 1lastweekend

  1. This is a great thread, lots of ideas here....I only get about 3-4 amps of output off my Tohatsu kicker charging circuit at 2500-3000RPMs so I have kept it limited to charging my starting and electronics battery while I'm trolling.  I have a bow mounted PowerDrive with iPilot for steering, and my thought was to try a 50watt solar panel and a spare charge controller I have lying around to see how much that might extend the run time of the group 29 deep cycle SLA I use for the TM.  Has anyone tried this setup?  My boat is not very big, so I don't have much room for a larger solar panel.

  2. RayMarine ST1000+ tiller pilot autopilot with wired remote and all accessories needed to install.  I have bench-tested the autopilot and the remote connected to it, both work as they should.  Also included is the D162 socket to connect the wired remote to the autopilot, and all hardware to install the autopilot.  Asking $400 for all.

     

    I spent about 2 months trying to rig this up to the steering yoke of my Mercruiser I/O sterndrive, but it just wouldn't turn the leg and the kicker together without disconnecting the steering cable on the I/O.  So I went with a MinnKota TM with iPilot instead.  

     

    If you have an outboard-to-outboard setup, or even just 1 outboard you use for both trolling and cruising, this would be a good AP option.  I have attached links to some YouTube videos of people using this as an AP, and the simplicity and accuracy are really appealing.  There's also some members here on LOU that have used this setup and seem to like it.

     

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dUIvemr6Kj0&t=7s

     

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5gXet_WiHyI

     

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=033lZV8tM1k

     

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1AE7OWfPln4

     

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  3. On 8/26/2023 at 4:26 PM, Frogger said:

    Agree with the Trident Marina suggestion from Sk8man. 
     

    Not sure if you did a compression check on the cylinders or changed plugs. Just rounding out the trouble shooting. 

    I did compression test, it was only reading 50 psi.  So before I started to tear the motor down I looked down the spark plug hole with a camera I had bought from HF.  No scoring on the cylinder, no hole in the piston and no metal chunks in the engine or oil...So I started to think a valve issue was to blame.  I ran a can of seafoam diluted in 2 gal of gas through the motor, and within 5 minutes it started to run a lot better.  I let it run for about 45 mins on the seafoam mix, and it was able to run through the RPM range and in forward and reverse.  I thought I had the problem fixed, but then out on the lake the other day it would run for 2-3 mins and then quit.  One thing I didnt do is change the spark plug, I will try that today.  I do have an inline spark checker and the spark from the coil looks very strong, but I never though to change the plug.  If thats it Frogger I owe you a 6 pack of your favorite beer LOL!

  4. 43 minutes ago, BRsnow said:

    Depends on the TM, the higher end ones will follow a chart and pair with the sonar/chart plotter,

    That is correct, there's a difference between a PowerDrive with iPilot and a Terrova or Ulterra with iPilot Link.  With the Link version you can have the TM follow courses and go to waypoints if you have a Humminbird FF thats compatible with iPilot Link.  It can even be set up to follow a depth setting/contour line on the Humminbird!  Whereas my PowerDrive, I get spot lock and autopilot, which keeps me on a heading and compensates for wind, waves, etc.  There's a cheaper add on to a PowerDrive called Copilot which basically gives you Left/Right steering and I think speed control, but I have lost my fishing partner to college this year so I needed the autopilot to be able to hold a course while I set up.  Big price difference between the 3 options too...

  5. After 2 months of messing around trying to find a way to rig a Raymarine ST1000+ tiller pilot to the steering yoke of my Mercruiser lower unit (inside the boat to allow for more space on the back deck and to keep it out of the weather) I finally realized it wasn't going to have enough guts to turn the main motor leg and the kicker motor (tied together with an Ez-Steer) without removing the steering cable.  Since that is a real PITA every time you want to connect and disconnect the AP, I gave up and bought a used 12V MK PowerDrive that someone had added the iPilot head to as an aftermarket add-on.  Just finished my first shakedown run, keeps my boat about 3 degrees +/- to a heading using the heading feature, and steers flawlessly with the kicker providing the propulsion.  My biggest concern is that the marina where I keep my boat doesn't have shore power, but I have found others online who spent about $250-$300 on a 100W solar panel, a charge controller and the wiring and connectors, and can charge a Group 31 100AH AGM battery in about 1 day.  Wish I had done this a few years ago!

     

  6. I have a 2012 Tohatsu 6hp 4 stroke kicker that is in need of some attention.  It only wants to run for a minute or two before stalling out.  It is hard to start and seems to have that "lean sneeze" backfire/smoke through the air intake when it stalls.  I have gone through a bunch of steps in trying to fix the issue, including:

    - soak carb in cleaner overnight, disassemble and clean out all jets and passageways with compressed air

    - check oil level in crankcase(it was fine)

    - replace fuel pump

    - try running on both a remote 6 gallon tank and the fuel line connected to the main tank of the boat(yes with 1-way check valve, etc)

    - replaced female fuel connector on both 6 gal and main tank lines

    - run motor in test tank with a can of Seafoam mixed in 3 gallons of gas.  This definitely seemed to help, I actually thought I had it fixed, but I took it out on the lake for a test run and it was doing the same thing...

     

    So now I am looking for a place local to Rochester where I can have an outboard mechanic take a look at it.

     

    TIA!

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  7. On 7/24/2023 at 8:11 AM, sherman brown said:

    I have a few things I just don't need anymore. I am placing them up for sale so you may have a use for them.

     

    1. an 02 merc 9.9 long shaft (20') with electric start, tiller handle that's been used very little and looks great for its age. it starts right up and runs so smooth you will think it's not even running. I have 1650.00 invested and want my money back but feel free to make offers.

     

    2. I have a 19p high 5 ss 5 blade prop with the solid hub for mercury or Mercruiser alpha 1 outdrives. I was using it on my 21' Cobia glass boat with the 350 motor in it. it had a 19p 3 blade that had trouble getting on plane. this prop jumped on plane like it was nothing. 265.00 shipped to you. this prop cost me over 600.00 new.

     

    3. I have 2 Frabil Tru Trax nets with an extendable handle that doesn't turn on you. one is the large net and the other is the smaller net. they are both in very good condition. 90.00 for the large and 80.00 for the small. i will ship if you pay shipping.

     

    4. I have a couple of Peen 345 GTI levelwind reels and 3 of the 330 GTI reels that would work great for running lead core or copper, or long leads of wire. 150.00 shipped for the 345 reels, 135.00 for the 330 reels. they were used for grouper fishing in saltwater. they are great high quality reels for large strong saltwater fish. these are in good working reels and should last for many years. 

    Hi are any of those Penn reels lever drags?

  8. Another beautiful Sunday, fishing with my son on Father's Day.  Went 7 for 11 this morning, all kings, mostly on the Mountain Dew spin doctor and green fly off the dipsey diver.  About 75-80 ft down, but over much deeper water than last week.  We caught all our fish between 225 and 400 FOW today, mostly north/south troll between Webster Park and Hedges.  Did pick up a couple of good eaters on the wonder bread and ladder back mixed veggie NK28 spoons off the downriggers, but all 3 of our 10+ pounders were on the dipseys.  We're not doing too bad for not running any copper or meat rigs!  Lake is warming up, and the fleas are out now...The fish seemed to like it faster today, 2.8 at the ball was the speed to be at...

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    • Like 2
  9. 1 hour ago, dhhurlburt said:

    I had full screens in 110 all morning out of bear creek heading west.  4 knockdowns on riggers 65 over 110 on a green jeans and fat Nancy stingers. Meat did nothing on dipseys 150 out. We managed 3 lakers on gambler rigs for my son's buddy, but other than that lots of misses. 

    Nice that you were getting hits in the shallower water, we couldn't buy a bite until 140-150.  I usually run NK28's, but I have a few stingers as well...Got the laker on a spin doctor fly rig, the gamblers and cowbells with peanuts don't come out for us until we've been skunked for 4 hrs plus  LOL...

  10. Beautiful morning, overcast with a nice breeze.  Went northeast 80' to 200', then on a general north/south troll, never got much farther east than Hedges...Went 6 for 8 including a nice 20lb+ king with a whole family of lamprey hanging on, and a nice Coho that came home with us!  We had a hot hour after the rain moved through, was slow before and after that.  The rigger bite was the best, with a fish on all 4 of our rigger lines.  2 on carbon black, 1 on wonder bread and 1 on mixed veggies.  The other 2 were on spin doctor/flies off the dipseys at 75 ft down.  Mostly green patterns.  There's a ton of fish showing at about 100' but they were not biting for us...All our hits and fish were between 140 and 200 FOW.

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    • Like 8
    • Thanks 1
  11. Man that's nice.  Mine failed the same way, no obvious issues and 6 months out of warranty and they offered me one at 1/2 price ($150 vs $300) so I took that offer.  The only issue with mine was the temp sensor failed, and I did send it to them so they could check.  They said the thermistor failed, which after only 3 seasons seemed a little premature...

    • Like 1
  12. On 10/28/2022 at 7:36 PM, Mattjc said:

    Any update on how this ended up? Contemplating on trying it out myself.

    Update as of 5/12/23: I worked for about a month on the setup of tying the ST1000 to my main motor steering by drilling a hole in the lower unit control arm and connecting the ST1000 via  a piece of 5/16" threaded rod.  The real issue was that the Raymarine wasn't powerful enough to turn my lower unit and the kicker connected via the steering rod unless the boats steering cable was disconnected.  Unlike Tinfin's setup, disconnecting my main steering cable from the lower control arm of the lower unit isn't very easy.  There's a nut, washer and a cotter pin, and getting the steering rod off the cable is a real PITA.  I thought about tying the ST1000 to the kicker only via a piece of aluminum stock attached to the kicker handle, but the ST1000 and setup is right in the way of where we bring fish into the boat, and when the kicker runs the flywheel magneto screws with the autopilots internal compass.  

     

    So I am actually going to list the ST1000 and the remote I bought for sale on here and a few other places, and think about what other options I have.  

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