1 more drift

need a couple more pics. If there is a strake {sp} on the out side its a little more of a repair. But from the one picture I would drill out the rivets 4 inches around the corroded area buff the are to be repaired and put a patch on it . There looks to be more corrosion below and to the right of the hole ,so make your patch large enough to cover that area also . To repair after wire brushing the area ]on outside] position patch over area  temporarily , on the outside of hull. Then drill a small hole  at the corner of the the patch and hull attach with a small screw ,then do same at other corners. Then drill holes at 1inch spacing along edges thru the patch and hull;   use either blind head rivets or 

truss head rivets when riveting . Now remove patch use 5200 to help seal and  hold patch.  Coat  patch reposition patch to the   hull  , screw to hull and rivet in place.

This rings so true ..Amen!!!  and may Gods blessing be with those currently serving our country .

rolmops   ; I started out  with an 85 Islander 221. The transom was in bad shape I had a new transom skin welded on 1Inch in from the edge ."they did one H... of a job. Very minimal warping could be seen ".then new ply wood Transom then I took a Piece of aluminum plate 1inch larger than the body of my bracket body[ Aprox 24x24 by1/4 in]..on top of the inter transom, I slid this down to aprox 1inche from the hull. Then I had to make a pattern of the motor stringers up to this plate .this bracket was bent to fit over the motor stringers and bent at the transom to a 90degree angle and also13.5 degree angle to match transom angle. Then marked the plate where everybody met up ,drilled pilot holes ,then removed the plate and inner brace drilled the holes for rivets and bolts. I  used both type of fasteners. This was then attached to the motor stringers[mount rails] 5.5in s.s.bolts3/8th .this was done prior to attaching the bracket then i mounted the bracket to the boat.. Then on the sides I made a bracket to attach from the side of the boat to the transom [this was an after though for more integrity ] I had to rivet this to inside of boat and bolt through the entire transom. I mounted a 150 hp on it I could not see any deflection on the transom.

Dave check your pm's .

Legacy ,are those blue lights in your deck area?

Red and green are both great for preserving nite vision and provide sufficient light to change lures. I found led lights on ebay that had all 3colors red ,green and blue. They come with a remote for either strobe or steady function The blue is a bit bright at times. I also installed white led's at floor level .for getting into and out at the end of a nites fishing or when you need the extra light. Some fishing lines will glow or be more visible under certain light's, such as blue or black light..

To test for leaking or loose rivets, I used a 3in.suction body puller  .Place over rivets, close it, if it holds rivet is good ,it will not seal if the rivet is loose. A loose rivet can be reset with a few simple tools; a rivet with a broken shank needs to be drilled out and  sealer put on rivet and set. Keep a rag with solvent handy to wipe off smeared sealer.                                                                            if unable to access  and see the rivet from the inside use a file and flatten the rivet head  ,center punch it then drill use a smaller dia bit on first pass thru. Center punching the head helps prevent drill drift remove rivet remains .to find aprox lgh of rivet I inserted a dental pick thru hole marked it and ordered rivets .  when using a blind rivet use a decent pop riveter and sealer  retest after you set the rivet to make sure it set this is important some times the rivet will not set square.Mark bad rivets with a good felt tip marker. see Rivets ,Rivets at iboats .com      this gentleman put a good article together on them.

This is a big job,It can be done part time or "balls to the wall"..I worked a 10 to 12 hour a day job All the while putting a boy thru college,A 6 month break while my wife recovered from cancer and ortho surgery. This project became my peaceful time.The major time i had was fitting the transom plywood .It was a B.... to do by myself ,but with the help of a bottle jack some 2x4's  it got done, backwoods engineering; always keep this in mind" I can do this "!  This was my 2nd rebuild on a boat ,the first was a 19.5 Bluefin Fish an Ski.That was a nitemare P.O. put PT plywood over the rotted out floor.Consoles were rotted out it took a month to tear down and rebuild and refit. still have and use this as my small lake boat. My helper on that was my son.  On the Starcraft, I called on my fishing buddies too give a hand when they were free.Especially on the rivet replacement ,I Had everything ready to replace them when I called on their help,all rivets drilled out or marked to reset.90 to 95 % of work was solo  .I dont have a garage so I purchased a car port from Harbor frt .The legs were not high enough to put over boat ,I went to local muffler shop and had them take exhaust pipe cut it to the lgh I needed .Went thru 2 of them due to wind damage.Tie downs ripped out of ground and it went into a twisted turtle,yeah ,tie downs were 2Ft of rebar with eye drove to grd level.                                    So Be Prepared. for set backs and things beyond your control to go wrong.Would I do another one Yes.Rollmops said it They are like a marriage.And I found a 26fter I'm trying to purchase,if I get this one it will be a rebuild for resale ,bad its an  OMC outdrive.                                                                                                                                                                                                     If in a jam ask questions on here YOU will get answers or advice. also look at iboats.com  Starcraft Rebuilds Alot of good info there alot of the photos there  were hijacked by the cloud .  

Baddad1; on the glass, you can have one made but its pricey .I had same issue, I made a pattern and and had one made at local glass company out of Lexan used 3/16 in. On my 85 it was flat.                                                                                                 On bulkhead area on the first steep rib the bottom 4/5 rivets on the rib the inside bases will be missing.When replacing if bad  ,I used sealant around rivets and or bolts.After I cleaned hull out I also used 5qts of gluvit to seal all rivets seams and  on any areas that was repaired.Use it on inside it deteriorates in sunlite .                                                                                                     To test rivets buy a suction body panel puller at harbor frt.  place this over rivet head on outside of boat and close it pull on it with lite to moderate pressure pull on it,if it holds rivet is sealed and in good shape; if it drops off or easily pulls off easily that rivet is leaking and needs replacing or reset. The puller  I use is 3in in dia..Setting rivets requires 2 people one inside and one outside easy to do takes some time, but not rocket science.I also lucked out and found a full canvas kit for mine .                         One thing to keep in mind the more material you order on line from the same place will save you a bundle in shipping !!!! Jamestown distributors is  a good source.  Do not hesitate to ask questions simple things confounds us all once in a while . .That's the purpose of these boards .I will look to see if I can find some pictures of before .They are on a dead phone here somewhere.

I agree with sstout ,I just finished a major rebuild on a 221 complete gutting.I had to have a new transom skin welded in. It suffered some severe corrosion ,so a new transom was welded in,{I refitted with a outboard bracket}  I had to engineer several brackets to the transom and the motor mounts in the boat.I went overkill on it ,but the transom does not flex with a 150 hp on it! had to drill out about 2 dozen rivets and replace them on hull The chines or stakes  rivets at the cuddy bulkhead area need ed to be replaced ,but these rivets were replaced with button head bolts {these rivets have a high failure rate on all the boats I  looked at }.Plan on pulling out all the foam it will either be water logged or mouse infested. An old saw and a shovel will be your best friend. 

.The interior was all replaced ,I used carpet ,All  the ply wood  was sealed with epoxy prior to installation. New seats I built all cabinets to place seats on ,this gave me storage area.                                                                                                                       On the glass YOU cannot get new gaskets to fit the window frames Taylor made no longer makes them,I spent hours on the phone calling different moulding makers .I took the windows apart and cleaned up tracks ,Put the mouldings in a big pot of boiling water and stretched them out to  the lgh of the channels I don't know how long this will last but at 2 years they are still fitting .  The bottom line on the project is how much time do You want to spend on it ,how long or how far do you want to go on rebuild.I read a lot on Various rebuilds at iboats .On the unit I bought, the trailer was worth more than the boat.Still after rebuild I have less in it than a newer used boat,and I know what I have .Its a tedious process but worth every minute in my own opinion!   Cost wise I have aprox.$2500 in materials ,Foam ,plywood ,carpet, seats, bracket,sealers,Transom rebuild and a 150hp motor. This also includes trailer rebuild and tires.  Don't rush yourself .    

Another way to fix ,is if you can get to both sides of the missing rivets ,.You can use button head screws with nylon  insert nuts and 5200 used these on a 16 ft, Starcraft runabout.These are available at most good hardware stores.going on 8years and still no leaks. 

Try your local Fastenal dealer .Another source could be a truck utility bed maker or installer in the area .Ihave found them at these places.

The floor in the cabin runs up under the cuddy benches or bunks to back under the forward part of the fuel tank area.If you plan on replacing the floor you could pull the fuel tank ,cut the old floor out and slide it in in 2 pieces.The boat i have had it done this way ,but I did a hull up rebuild .The center floor piece is about 25 inchs wide at rear and does a taper to the front area under the bunks in the cuddy it was just shy of 8 ft.If the transom shows rot at floor area this will have to be replaced also.Another thing if the boat was uncovered check the flotation foam under the floor for water saturation if saturated it will need to be pulled out and refoamed..Not being a Debby Downer, it is doable but there is alot of sweat involved.Is this boat boat an Inboard or out board? If this is an I/O the out drive has to removed to replace the transom plywood. I recommend  that You  take a look on i.boats.com.and look up starcraft rebuilds read several of the articles there then decide if you want to go ahead with this project. 

What are your questions ,need a little to go on. Most Islanders from 84 thru 90 have basically the same floor plan or lay out.The floor is riveted to the stringers. The front cabin partitions  sit on the floor; if they have rot they will need replaced as they are the main support to the dash.The rear transoms interior support on Mine was bolted and riveted in place. 

Could also be carbon build up on pistons,or a piece of carbon off a valve Yyou mentioned hours of trolling.If after checking the timing and fuel octane and you still have the knock get a can of GM top engine cleaner and follow the directions on the can, or you can also use  Sea Foam to clean the valves and decarbon the cylinders. 

check your pm's