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Puck5760

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Posts posted by Puck5760

  1. as a frontline first responder during this pandemic and an avid angler.  I would 100% suggest going to the store and purchasing a thermometer and taking temps prior to going out.  A fever is a big thing with this virus.  Yes you can be asymptomatic and transmit it.  Takes an extra 5 mins to take temps.  Be ready to offer a refund should someone have a temperature.  Try and purchase disposable gloves for people to wear.  Depending on the size of the boat perhaps reduce party size for the charter.  This has the potential to spread like crazy and already is.  The extra cost for the thermometer and gloves is a small price to pay for the added professionalism to your business.  Let also your insurance coverage and your conscience factor into the decision as well.

  2. you could do that, but you will have quite the sage in the line from the rod tip to planer board release depending how far you send the board out.  Also, throw in if you are using inline boards as opposed to big boards.  Its a lot of knots and a hassle.  I was faced with the same dilemma as you and this is what I have done.

     

    I have two setups (I use weighted steel instead of copper - same principle) A 200 and a 300 set up.  I put 150 yards of 40lb braid backing then i put 150 metres (165 yds - the full spool) of 40lb Diawa metered J braid (colour changes every 10M or 33 feet.  Then add the 200 and 300 copper/weighted steel.  Those two set ups for arguments sake get down 40 and 60 feet.  if I want them deeper I just use Torpedo weights - I have both the 2 oz and 4 oz versions.  They come with a depth chart.  I have tested the depths with a fish hawk td and they are pretty accurate.

     

    so lets say I need two lines out 70 and 80 feet.  I take my 200 steel - let it all out - clip on a 4oz torpedo weight once i get to the braid.  Then I let out roughly 75 feet of the metered braid.  That gets me in the ball park of 70 feet - depending on spoon/flasher/fly speed etc.  I adjust based on all that.   for the 80 feet - do the same thing for the 300 steel - attached weight and then let out 35 feet and make the same adjustments based on lure, speed etc.  When done - attached to the board and you are all set.   The weights attached to the braid with an or16 clip so you just unclip when winding in.

     

    I compliment these with 3,5,and 10 colour lead cores.

     

  3. 41 minutes ago, Rookie Fisherman said:

     

    I think that the majority of these issues that Tracker had are behind them. 

    Something to keep in mind is that Tracker sells more aluminum fishing boats across the country than any other manufacture every year. 

    This has nothing to do with quality but exposure, sell more boats have more issues. = More people talking about their issues.

     

     

     

    There is a reason they have the nickname "Cracker".  They sell more because they are cheap.  The number of warranty claims on cracked welds is ridiculous.  I had to get something welded on my boat and they guy I used was the warranty guy for Bass Pro shops (Tracker dealer).  When I went to his yard there was at least 8 boats waiting to get welded.  There is a reason why you don't see welded airplane wings.  Yes Rivets leak, but they are much cheaper to fix than a cracked hull.  True craftsmanship in welded boats cost top $$$.   Look at Kingfisher if you are set on a welded hull.   Crestliner is not anywhere close to top dog in this category.

  4. 13 hours ago, horsehunter said:

    So why would I even bother with the mono and not just run braid directly to the dipsey and run the snubber I have always run behind the dipsey I have bulk spools of both 80 and 100 pound power pro. I'm only trying to get all the wire on the reel for break down.

    you can do that if you want to use a snubber.   I don't use snubbers.

  5. 1 hour ago, horsehunter said:

    Can you not just wire to mono and eliminate one knot also I'm thinking fleas on the braid.

    What about using a small swivel

    you can, but having done it and faced the consequence of losing a couple diver setups, i switched to the small section of braid (80lb) and have never lost one since

  6. uni-uni knot your backer to a 2 foot section of 65 or 80lb braid - then albright knot the braid to weighted steel.  do the same for your leader - albright steel to 2 foot section of 65/80lb braid and then uni-uni that to your floro leader.   never had any issues yet with plenty of good kings taken.  the key was the 65 or 80lb braid - tried using 40lb braid and it didn't hold as well.

  7. Quinte soft water - check out Lloyd Duame with U and Me guide service.  I know he primarily fishes the Bay in May and then September to December.  He's part of a network of guides that run out of Picton harbour inn (Scott Walcott)  Switching over to the salmon/trout in June-September

     

    http://www.bayofquintewalleyefishing.com

     

    As for Ice fishing Simcoe all the way if you are looking for perch, lake trout or whitefish.  Perch spots are pretty much good to go no with operators starting this weekend.  if you are looking for an amazing whitefish/lake trout experience - check out Fatal Force Outfitters on facebook.  For Perch, there are tons of operators.  Pm if you want I can recommend one based on whether you wanna do a bungalow on ice exprience or just a day hunt rental.   I grew up religiously ice fishing Simcoe and put over 40 days on the hardwater there during the Jan 1- March 15 season

  8. in regards to the snap weights - look at the torpedo shark weights (4 oz).  I have no issues getting a 200 weighted still setup (roughly 40 feet) down to 100-110' using the torpedo shark weight attached where backing (segmented braid from J braid) with a 8 inch spin doctor/meat rig - just use the chart provided with the weight  - have confirmed depths numerous times with a fish hawk td.  Lets you use alot smaller reels.  

  9. I have talked to Humminbird on the phone a few times.  With the new g3n mega si you can not use a transducer switch.  I run two humminbirds on the console.  there solution to me was to link them together with ethernet and then on my g2n hook up whatever transducer i want and it will show on the g3n.  leave the mega si transducer hooked up to the g3n and just turn sonar off when not using it and when u want side imaging u just turn sonar on.  They are pretty helpful at humminbird but its in alabama and they get super confused when you say trolling on the great lakes lol

  10. oh man - I wish i had a p66 for the transom for the new helix units.  After having the g3n mega SI out a few times now on lake O, IMO it is not a good unit at all for the application.  I guess i should reword and say that the mega imaging transducers and the new transducers with the G3 and G3n units are not good for the application.  with the new dual spectrum chip on the wide mode I think the lowest frequency you get is 120, which only gives you a 40/42 degree cone - which is awesome for riggers from the top to 70 feet down  (That i have found).  Once you start running riggers deep in the 100-160 feet range they disappear into the abyss on the screen.  I run 16lb balls.  last night i ran the older 83/200 transducer off the back on a portable clamp and at 2.0 mph at the ball with an 11 inch rotator i could pick the ball up down to 150ish feet and then with one click back on the transducer bracket i got it down to 215.  I stopped there as i was getting nervous with the amount of cable out lol

  11. Dave,

     

    100% know the g3n is transducer as 2d, but I absolutely hate the changes made to the 2d sonar in the g3n models.  Even with the "Wide" the cone angle is very narrow.  I prefer the wider 2d cone with 83 or 50 kHz.  In fact if someone gave me a good deal i'd take the g3n right off the boat and put in a g2n.

     

    Currently i have the mounting board on the starboard side with the Si and fishawk transducer.  Just from the input here hoping to hear that mounting the 2d sonar on the port side won't be issue.   You seem to not have issues. So that's some confidence for me! 

  12. I have three transducers I need to mount.

     

    1. Humminbird 2d sonar

    2. Humminbird Mega Si+

    3. Fishhawk X4

     

    What would be your recommendations or input on mounting these?  

    All are transom mounts.  and I have a main engine and then a kicker on the port side

     

    Is there an issue or any one have any issues mounting a transducer on the Port side of the motor?    The fish hawk manual has them having the sonar between the kicker and main motor on the port side, but the fish finder manuals have it exclusively on the starboard side.   My original though was to mount the Fishhawk and Mega SI together on the starboard side and then the 2d sonar on the port side. (two separate the potential for frequency interference and because the fish hawk is already install on that side on the transducer board.

     

    cheer!

  13. Hey Guys,

     

    I am new to Salmon fishing and well addicted.  This has been my first "off season"  I have been watching and reading over numerous charter captains reports on facebook and online.  I have noticed guys say in there reports they fishing the 28N to 31N and 12-16W.  I know it has to do with where abouts on the lake.  My question is what is this a reference too?  I probably just asked a huge rookie question, so I am ready for the hazing!

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