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Posts posted by fizbot
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I had the same thing happen and haven’t been able to find any sort of replacement
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Some spoons seem to not come with a split ring to attach to and instead just have the hole in the metal. I think that is just a cut-your-line waiting to happen, so I always add a split ring if it doesn't have one already. I also always have a snap swivel in front.
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That crack and ding will probably not be a problem for a long time, but if you have a replacement - mount the new one and this one can become your spare.
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9 hours ago, Sk8man said:
I doubt seriously if the Blacks are at fault. I have used them for more than 40 years without problems but if that weight is spinning somehow and perhaps in strong current it could introduce tangling. I mostly use the older Black releases that you thread right on the downrigger cable about 6 or 8 inches up from the weight but I have also used the more portable type as well without problems - even when pretty much "free-falling" the weights with sliders attached. Ifishy has given you a good tip too. I'd be experimenting with a different type weight such as the torpedo or shark type if it were me.
elaborating further, it was not the in-line black release that was the issue, it was actually that I had my rods pointing away from the boat (Left and Right) which was causing the ball to twist more and get tangled.... When I adjusted my rod holders to point straight out the back the problem went away.
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I started having that problem when I switched to black releases as well. i think it's because with the release right at the cable, and my rods sticking out past the rigger, it was causing the weight to just twist a bit, causing the weights to tangle.. I moved back to clips hanging off the end of the fin, or use the blacks, but have an agitator off the back fin helped solve the problem as well.
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1 hour ago, orangediablo said:
some people use crimps, some use beads. I'm a fan of beads. Double the line through the bead, slide the small fly on, repeat for as many flies as you want. This will also allow you to adjust the distance between flies if you want. I use 50lb ANDE fkouro.
Thanks, was worried about those crimps, but doubling through the bead would work with maybe a toothpick to help hold. I guess a key is to make sure there is no sharp edges on the side of the bead, otherwise that would create a potential cut point.
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I've seen videos where people seem to have a typical 4-6' leader between their flasher and the lure, but have multiple hootchies/flies tied along the leader giving the presentation a bit of a 'school' look. I can't seem to find any reference to how to tie and set that up. Any suggestions on the key words to use, or references to pages that give instructions?
p.
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Docking often described as crashing very slowly... Be aware of wind and any current and just go as slow as you are comfortable, and if you are going slow enough, then you can pretty much recover manually.
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On 6/4/2019 at 2:42 PM, garrymny said:
I have a lowrance hds 7. I can't anything at all after I crank the big motor. Screen goes to nothing but noise, interference. And my engine is not even connected to the battery that powers my fish finder. The Motor is connected to it's own dedicated battery! I wish I could see fish when cruising around. Maybe if I turn the sensitivity down it will help.
Sent from my moto z3 using Lake Ontario United mobile app
Probably not noise from the power but turbulence, air-bubbles etc... under the transducer when at speed.
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If you run a motor at 12v that’s capable of 24 are you just giving up longevity or power?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
May not even be enough power to run. I would not mess with it... if it says 24v the. You should provide 24v.
If it just needed 12 V and you wanted longer run time then you can get larger batteries or can run multiple batteries in parallel. This is ver different than running batteries in series to up the voltage
Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United -
Here is a chart. https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.bluesea.com%2Ffiles%2Fresources%2Fnewsletter%2Fimages%2FDC_wire_selection_chartlg.jpg&imgrefurl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.bluesea.com%2Fsupport%2Farticles%2FCircuit_Protection%2F1437%2FPart_1%253A_Choosing_the_Correct_Wire_Size_for_a_DC_Circuit&docid=vVTDvNAGUPn_FM&tbnid=jkQpCQMB_JdZ2M%3A&vet=1&w=3189&h=1574&hl=en&gsawvi=1&source=sh%2Fx%2Fim
Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United -
10-15’ should not be an issue. DC current IS sensitive to distance, but you can counteract that by increasing the gauge of the wires. Make sure you use appropriate sized wires that will handle the amperage over those distances. Its also no difference if the two batteries are next to each other and then there is a long run to the motor, or if one battery is close to the motor and the other is long way away.
Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United -
Make sure it has never run in salt water! On east and west coast you go through engines fast and its not uncommon for people to dress them up and try to sell at a premium in lake country.
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2 hours ago, FISH_HUNTER said:
I just ordered a 6" track this morn off amazon.ca, $40 and free 2 day shipping if you sign up for a free trial of amazon prime
I phoned around all the local places with none in stock. So as I don't actually need it this weekend, I took your advice and ordered on Amazon... actually cheaper than anywhere else I saw, especially if I count the $40 in gas it would take to get to most of these places and back!
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Any recommendations on where to get Bert's or Cannon or like track systems in Toronto/Mississauga area? looking for some 6" tracks as well as 6" Pedestal and swivel bases and no-one seems to have the short tracks in stock right now.
Frabil Net Extension Handle Replacement
in Tackle and Techniques
Posted
I contacted them on their web site a couple years ago, and the replacement part was going to be pretty expensive, but shipping to my house in canada was going to be almost $200 on top of the part, plus customs and duty. No canadian options, so bought a new net from a competitor.