ErieBuck

 
I run NK 28's at a down-speed of 2.2 to 3 mph.  The speed range allows me to run stingers in the stingray size. at the same time (for the most part).  I always have NKs in the water.
 
My favorite colors/patterns:
Black, green/glow strip with a white back
White, blue/pearl strip with a white back
George Bush Pattern with a white back
 
I am not saying I do not have other patterns and colors but I start with these in the am and adjust as the sun comes up and as I lower or raise the range of depth I am fishing (due to the difference in light penetration).  I always have one of the three mentioned in the water.
 
As a side note, the older NK blanks are what you want; the newer ones are NOT the same weight and do not run the same next to the older ones.

When buying spoons it is important to find out which speed they can run at. Some perform at 3 mph but suck at 2.3 mph. Super Slims are popular because the perform anywhere between 1.9 and 3.00.
Matching the hatch while fishing at 60 feet down is complicated. that's why your beginning setup has different sizes and depending on which spoons get hit you can adjust your size. Don't over think it,enjoy it!

Just the opinion of an old guy, if your box doesn't include some of the original NK-28's your missing out.
 

NBK
Gator
Gator UV
Green Glow alewife
Green Glow alewife UV
Tuxedo 
Tuxedo UV
Purple Glow Alewife
Diehard
Diehard UV
Seasick Waddler UV
Froggy Glow
 

FYI.... you can Albright knot any of the lead core lines and if tied properly, it will NEVER let go.  The knot is a little larger since the lead core is doubled over, but I have never had one fail in 40 years of fishing.  FYI...it's rather easy to tie once you have done it several times.

I run mostly Stingers and run them in Stinger, Stingray and Mags.  Some days one works better than the others.  I find the Stingray size works best for all species most of the time.  

I run mostly Stingers and run them in Stinger, Stingray and Mags.  Some days one works better than the others.  I find the Stingray size works best for all species most of the time.  

I’m working on my spoon collection and picked up this great new box from fish usa... I’m pretty new to the game but seems like a lot of salmon fisherman like the Moonshine or mags and Dreamweaver super slim. Watching various YouTube videos it seems like on Lake Michigan they primary run super slim size with occasional mags. I’ve heard the old saying “match the hatch” to size your baits to the actual bait fish the fish are eating at the time... so I wanted to get the experts comments on what’s been your experience on Lake Ontario with size of spoons (regardless of brands) at different times of the year...

Thanks in advance for your comments!

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On 3/18/2017 at 8:31 PM, Legacy said:

 

The line counter on the reel is not accurate enough for these measurements. I use a Berkley clip on line counter http://www.berkley-fishing.com/berkley-tools-and-equipment-tools-berkley-fishingear/berkley-line-counter/1285890.html

Legacy - are you still using this Berkley clip on line counter?  Found this threat very useful, much appreciated!  Just need to figure out the best way to measure my line going on the spools without an expensive machine

580 how do you find the microlead handles compared to the stealth core?  Can you do a willis knot to your leaders?   I can see why the 30% smaller diameter would be helpful on the 10 cores.  what size reels do you use for your 10 colors?  thank you sir!

glad you've had good luck with the suffix.  I think my narrow reels contributed to me having issues.  I found that a uni vs. willis made the line more prone to build up twists in that spot as well 

I may as well do the same!  Let me know how it goes.  Where are you ordering from?

Update to my post. Bought Promar replacement bag for my current net. Flat bottom, hook resistant. About $30 on Amazon. Finer mesh, deep bag.

I just bought my first Okuma Reels, 553LS for 300 copper setup, I wasn’t aware of this drag issue. You guys think I should proactively get the drags upgraded or is there a chance they’ve corrected? Hate to find out it’s not with a big fish on the line.

I normally run Shimano or Daiwa but seemed like everything in the larger sizes was sold out or discontinued. I wanted that high speed Daiwa Saltist but was told it’s discontinued.


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Has anyone using Tufline micro also tried Suffix 832 advanced? If so, how does it compare, seems like a similar concept. I was not a fan of the suffix, as it was very kink prone and was going to go back to using the 27lb stealthcore.


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On HP, my VHF knocks out my Fish Hawk. Very annoying so I quit using it


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Making first spring king trip to Wilson in a couple weeks. How important is leader length off dispseys? What lengths do you guys recommend? Worth getting some slide divers? Spoons predominately right? Thanks!!

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Have you guys noticed that running 2 cowbells or death trap rigs off the riggers is too much?

Seems like we do better with just one off the rigger which takes a lot of hits and also attracts the fish into the spread. we run pro troll paddles/spin n glows off dipseys and the other rigger


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18 hours ago, Iceman said:

E B;

I am looking at this suspension system (two units for the front seats), as it can handle heavy weights  (like me). They are expensive, but you can't put a price on comfort & safety.

 

SW_S5_SuspensionModule_SW-05026_SpecSheet2019.pdf

 

Good luck with your search, & let us know what you end up with.

 

John

John, appreciate it!  Here are a couple more options I've found:

https://waveproshock.com/

http://www.springfieldgrp.com/products/4-series/4-pedestals/4-ez-ride-pedestal

19 hours ago, leadhead said:

https://smoothmovesseats.com


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Very cool, appreciate it Leadhead, will check it out!

Hey all, I'm looking to upgrade my captain chair pedestal to provide some sort of shock absorption.  A couple of rough days earlier this year has sent my surgically repaired back into pain mode again.  Anyone have a seat they really like?  Thanks!

52 minutes ago, cjc said:

What cable would you replace it with that would be better.

Going to try 49 strand (7 x 7) stainless steel wire.  I had read in some other posts I saw that people had switched from the Cannon 7 strand to 49. 

I found this product on ebay (from Australia lol) and bought it.  https://www.ebay.com/itm/323970070042.  98kg equates to 216 lb test which is 66 lb better rating than Cannon's wire and the diameter is very similar, only 0.004 bigger.  It still goes through the Cannon terminators with a little help and the line counter should still be accurate.  The 49 strand wire seems much easier to work with -- it doesn't have nowhere near the stiff "memory" of the 7 strand which can really tangle, twist, and kink easily.  I'm looking forward to seeing how it performs.  If this doesn't work well, I suppose I will try braid like many have started using.  

The Malin wire company out of Cleveland also makes 49 strand but I was having trouble finding a diameter that was that close to the original cannon wire.  

Appreciate your efforts Yankee -- you're a good man.  I will be sure to pay closer attention to the how the line is winding.  Crazy there isn't some sort of level-wind guide on these... hopefully they will incorporate into future designs.  What made you switch to braid?  Any problems with fleas?

Do you guys still buy the line counter version of the reels for your downrigger rods?  That's all I've ever bought because the price isn't much different, but I may pick up a couple non-line counter Tekotas to use on the riggers.   Only thing I don't like about them is how far the line counter sticks out which can get in the way a bit while reeling for people who aren't used to them and it makes the below deck storage on my boat a little challenging.  

6 minutes ago, tuffishooker said:

As previously posted your problem is the cable ! Any twist or kink will weaken the cable along with a bounce with a wave ! Who said salmon fishing is cheap , I tell all " newbies " be prepared  $$$ ! I doubt Canon is the problem !

Wire on 1500$ downriggers shouldn't snap that easy... it's ridiculous.  They need to address the problem that so many are experiencing.  Google it -- this isn't a couple incidents with newbies.  Step 1 would be for Cannon to acknowledge there is a problem, which it appears based on my experience with them, they aren't really good at listening.  Step 2 would be to start equipping these powerful modern downriggers with cable that can actually handle the routine stresses they face out on the lake.  The cable is probably the cheapest component and they are using the same stuff from the manual crank days.  It's like putting donut spare tires on a Ferrari.