ErieBuck

We made our first trip this spring and ran 8 rods. Next time I go back I will have some copper rigs. I think I would run a rigger off each side with a slider 2 dipsys off each side then a copper or lead core off a board off each. That should target pretty much h all depths.

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That’s kinda what I was thinking but I’ve heard a lot of pros talk about coordinating your spread so that all the lines play well off each other… so I’m trying to figure out specifically what that would look like.

I guess the big thing is to make sure the action is working properly on all your lines given your speed. Meat paddles need to go slow 2.0ish but that makes most spoons not work too well at that slow speed. So if I go big paddles with meat on the riggers, maybe pair those with flasher flies on the wire divers and run forgiving spoons like super slims on the long lines. 2 rods on boards with 200/300 copper and 2 with 7 color lead? Would I put one of each on each side or pair them up?



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I only make it to Lake O a couple times of year and I really want to refine my approach to maximize my experience... I've been studying up and accumulating more gear but I need to come up with a solid plan for my next trip in late July.  

 

Obviously I want to catch Kings, but I don't want to put all my eggs in one basket.  So, my overall goal would be to catch Kings but get more overall action by using some setups to target Steelhead/Coho as well, especially considering the King numbers have been down this year so far.  

 

So that being said, with an 8 rod spread, what would you guys choose to run for an effective program?

 

I have all the gear... big boards, down riggers, wire divers, slide divers, 200/300 copper, big paddles/meat rigs, etc.   

 

Thanks in advance for your suggestions!  

If you want a great walleye trolling rod go with the Denali 8'6" leadcore rod.  They also have a braid/mono trolling rod and a 12' leadcore rod. There is nothing that compares to this rod in forgiveness and landing walleye. These rods easily handle big fish as well.  I tested the 12' rod tiger musky trolling on rod rod length setbacks at near 3 gps speed and it performed very well on a 45" tiger!   Paired with a tekota and I don't think you can do any better... I have 2 dozen and wouldn't consider using anything else!  If someone wants to demo them contact me.

How does the telescopic feature work on the Denali? Any issues with storage/transport?

Early and late season lake trout, steelhead and smallmouth make a more expensive rod worth it for me. I caught 2, 7lb walleye this week and neither was able to pull off the Scotty planer board clip. 4lb sheephead, no problem!

I just paired up two of the New Tek 500s for the same purposes with shimano  Talora  2pc 7’0 ultra light down-rigger Model:TLA70UL2A  
 
very nice action in comparison vs theTDRs which I also run.  

Nice, I actually just looked at those today at fish usa — seems to fit that beautiful reel better than a TDR! Let me know how that works out for you por favor!


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thanks, will check them out

I picked up some smaller Tekota A 500s that I want to use for smaller, lighter tackle trolling situations - walleye, smallmouth, fall steelhead on Lake Erie.  I have a whole bunch of Shimano TDR 8'6" rods but it just seems they don't do the smoothness and precision of the Tekota any justice as they can be a bit heavy and stiff.  Are there any trolling rods out there that would provide feel more similar to a spinning rod to pair with the smaller Tekota?   Thanks in advance for your recommendations.  

32 minutes ago, rolmops said:

Lol, some of you Libtards are pathetic. You have the Clintons murdering people as well as your great governor and Cuomo responsible for directly killing 45,000 and your concerned about some ducks  .Ignorance at its best

Did you storm the capital patriot?  Ignorance at its best.  


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The following reels are for sale -- light, recreational use only for 2 seasons.   All in "like-new" condition.  Make me an offer... 

 

(2) SG47

(2) SC27

(2) SC17

 

All are right-handed, line counter.  

 

Will get some pics posted soon.  

I bought these reels new a week ago ($150 each) and used them only one time on the lake... there is absolutely nothing wrong with them, I've just decided to go with a 200 copper setup with 19 strand backing so I don't have to carry as many reels on my smaller boat, thus need the 453 version with LC.    

 

The reels are set up with 300 ft. of Torpedo Weighted Steel, 50 ft. of 20lb fluorocarbon leader, and approximately 800 ft. of 65lb hi vis braid backing.  If you do not want this line setup, no problem I will remove and reduce the price $70 for the pair.  

 

I also will include the Dragmaster drag upgrade from Tuna's but I have not installed yet.  These were $30 for the pair.  

 

I have $400 into the setup plus the time getting them set up, but will sell for $325 w/ free shipping.  

 

Here is a link to the specs from Okuma:

https://www.okumafishing.com/en/product/cold-water-wire-line-star-drag-reel.html

 

Rods not included.  Will include the original reel boxes.  

On 6/13/2021 at 8:57 AM, pole setter said:

Is anyone using in-line planer boards with the 19th strand if so how are you attaching them to the planer boards?


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Here's a good video on a way to set it up for in line planer boards.  This guys splices in some braid to hook the boards.  I plan on using mine on big boards with scotty clips... I think I'll be able to just clip directly to the 19 strand as the scotty clips seem to hold everything but we'll see 

 

This video may answer your question


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Good info, Thanks for posting


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Um yeah, don’t understand your point. No one said lead length had anything to do with depth.
Was talking about achieving depth with a slide diver... not the lead

A slide diver has different characteristics than a standard diver that makes it not achieve the same depths without adding their weights and rings



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A diver is a diver. Lead length has nothing to do with achieving depth.


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Um yeah, don’t understand your point. No one said lead length had anything to do with depth.
Was talking about achieving depth with a slide diver... not the lead

So you don't think it's possible to get deep-er and stealthy at the same time?   Or are you saying stealth doesn't matter all that much down deep?  Thanks Sk8man

Wicked Walleye - curious if you ever got your Fish Hawk TD dialed in for the slide divers yet?  I'm headed down the same path as you experimenting with slide divers...  I'm about to go buy a Fish Hawk TD to figure out how deep my stuff is running.  

I plan on experimenting with slide divers as well... I think the concern would be depth they can achieve compared to regular dipsey with a mag ring which is what I use now.  180-200 can get to 100 ft.  I know they sell bigger rings and a weight for the slide divers but not sure how deep they get.  If anyone knows please post!  

Anyone else out here using 19 strand as backing??  What's been your experience... any advice?  

I run 2 200 footers and one 300 footer with a thousand foot of 19 strand backing on each and fish down to 90 feet and dependent on speed sometimes more. I use large convectors with line counters. You will have to experiment with the knots that connect between the thicker and thinner wires although the 19 strand acts and feels like mono as far as knotting is concerned.
For me the best part is no more copper with all the complications that it causes.

Maybe barrel swivel and crimp?


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I have been using the 19 strand as backing with weighted steel in front. The thinness and weight of the 19 strand will allow almost the same sink rate as the weighted steel. That will work for leadcore as well.But the relative thickness and structure of leadcore creates a bit higher water resistance so you will probably not get as good a sink rate per foot compared to weighted steel.
Not having to stock a different rod on board for every length of leadcore I might wish to use was the motivation behind using this setup. For me it  has to do with with control of the work place which is crucial on a 19 footer.

Thanks! What weighted steel lengths are you running? How often do you need to go beyond 300 ft? In summertime to hit that 70/80 ft range? Weighted steel says 20 ft drop per 100 ft... so do you follow that same guideline for letting out additional backer?


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great day! 

I really like the idea of having versatility in the water column without having so many reels, as my collection of equipment is getting quite ridiculous.  I think I have more stuff in stock than fishUSA these days haha.  So I've "heard" that 19 strand as a backer mimics the dive pattern of what's in front of it.... so does that mean if I let out 5 colors of leadcore, to make it equivalent to a 7 color, I would simply let out an additional 20 yards/60 Ft. of 19 strand backing?  An additional 50 ft. of 19 strand behind weighted steel would get me 10 more ft. of depth?  Does this really work?  I bought a bucket of the Scotty clips...will I have any problem clipping to the 19 strand?  I'm not a huge fan rubber bands.  

 

I recently set up a couple 300ft weighted steel reels with braid as backer.  Would it be advantageous for me to add 19 strand instead of braid or would that be overkill -- how often would I need to get deeper that that?  300 ft. of weighted steel is supposed to get to 60 ft at 2mph but at higher speeds with flashers I'm guessing 50 or less.  

 

 

I run TDR or Talora med/heavy, moderate fast for wire and braid Divers 8'6" or 9'.  Downriggers I like the medium/light version for the extra bend and action especially when running spoons.  For downrigger meat and paddle rods, I like medium over medium/light.  I have 8'6 for the riggers.   Board rods I like a little shorter 8' 

 

Hard to beat the TDR for the price, great rods.  Not sure exactly what I get for spending 2.5x for the Talora -- they both work great, although the new copper colored Taloras sure are pretty, especially when paired with a Tekota A .  TDR seems to be sold out everywhere online these days however...  

Recommend googling the "Reel Fill Calculator".   It's been a huge help in figuring out how to set up all my reels.  I would just recommend to be conservative (i.e. put use 85% as a target rather than 100%).  I got the Berkley line counter I use measure the amount of line going on.  I recently just switched my wire reels from Daiwa 47s to Shimano Tekota A 600s.  On the 47s I had no backer as it was advised by a friend to leave some room in case of a backlash/birds nest.  However, when the line counter read 100, it was only 85 ft. of line due to the unfilled spool.  I don't like having to do math on the fly to account for the shortage, so I filled my new reels pretty much to capacity.  I used the reel fill calculator to determine I needed 250 ft of 50 lb braid behind my 1000 ft. of 7 strand wire in order to get my spool to 90% according to the calculator.  I turned out just about perfect, closer to 100%.  I used the improved albright knot to connect the braid to the wire which is a great tip I picked up on this forum.     

Lakers can be a pain in the net.... especially the smaller ones.  I don't net anything under say 15lbs.  Simply shake off on the side of the boat, they are usually pretty compliant.  People with the bigger boats don't have a choice, but I don't understand the fascination people have with netting everything, especially stuff you're not going to eat!   Shaking off on the side of the boat keeps the fish alive in the water and saves a major hassle with the slimy snakes twisting in the net.  Switching to this tactic has made lake trout fishing much more enjoyable.  

1.9 to 2.2