Cody191

It’s not just new boaters. This spring I had on a 20 pound king on off sandy. Fighting it by myself in my 20’ boat. I locked the tm in a straight line so I could focus on getting my fish in. A charter boat saw me reeling it in and came from about 1/4 mile out and cut right in front of me by about 100’. I couldn’t believe it.

West, but I was marking fish and bait straight out. The last fish at 11:00 was in front of sodus.

Fished solo from sunrise to 11am. Went 4 for 4. Best water early was 120’-150’. Caught 3 before 8am. One skip that was released boatside and a 14 and 17. All 3 came on the same wire diver with flasher/fly back 125’.  Then everything died. After 2 hours I changed all baits and slid out deeper. Picked up a 19 pounder on wire diver back 200’. All bites were flasher/fly on diver. Rigger and spoons saw no action.

You could run a longer leader. I run a 50’ fc leader with a spro power swivel. If my spoon on rigger is back 20-30’ it leaves you another 20-30’ to hook fixed slider on. It will work with the clips your asking about. It works well to get another bait in the water slightly above your first one. However if your running a cheater to say target steelhead higher in the column it won’t work.

Anyone running a troll smarter on Suzuki 9.9 efi? I recently purchased one but it didn’t come with mounting instructions. I really just need to see where the servo is mounted and how to run the throttle cable.

If you hook kicker and main to start battery and then run a system like I mentioned, you would keep both start and tm batteries charged as much as possible when running either motor. I think it’s the best way. 

19 hours ago, tyler.woodard04 said:

From what I can tell my kicker is equipped with charging. Currently run this motor fixed straight and run the speed just under the target speed and use my Terrova to steer and fine tune the speed.  I have 2 31 size batteries running the trolling motor (12V) Any reason I should not run the cables from the kicker to the trolling batteries?  

You can do this but I would keep your kicker wired to the start battery. Then run wires from that battery to the tm batteries with some sort of charging relay or combiner in line. You want a system that only charges the tm batteries once the start battery is full and the system should not allow power to drain backwards in the event your start battery is lower voltage than tm batteries. It’s been awhile but yandina combiner and blue sea ACR come to mind. Worth a look to do it right.

1 hour ago, JJBat150 said:

You need to set the filter to "content I have not "  then save as your default stream

 

 

Yeah, then it doesn’t even show the threads that I have viewed. Which are the exact ones I want to see. Like I said, the app is crap. Can’t you just fix Tapatalk?

8 minutes ago, JJBat150 said:

The LOU app does the same thing.  Tap on the solid circle next to each topic title.

 

Once I click on a thread, that dot disappeares. Then when I click on it always starts me at the beginning.

6 hours ago, BlueEye said:

Hi guys -

 

Try the LOU app itself:

 

Google Play / Android:  https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.LakeOntarioUnited.android&hl=en_US&gl=US

 

Apple / iPhone:  https://apps.apple.com/us/app/lake-ontario-united/id644330966

Like I said, I don’t really like the app. The nice thing about Tapatalk is it always takes you to the last message you read in a thread. So if it’s a longer one you don’t have to scroll through the whole thing to get to the new stuff every time.

Yes I have same problem. I contacted Tapatalk and they said that LOU is not running the tapatalk plug-in. They said that they would email them and I should as well because sometimes they respond to forum members better. Well , I did and didn’t even get a response. This was over a month ago.  THANKS LOU! I hate using the LOU app and I don’t check in as often when I have to use it.

Also worth looking into wave pro. That’s what I have and they’ve been great. I chose them based on their size and ability to easily move them around. There’s pros and cons to all the different types.

1 hour ago, JLK said:

Neat! Very Tidy. What are the clear cylinders?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/352826119992?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=vA6Z-p5TSW2&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=LGbAeS7vQ1e&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I use pool noodles, then put them inside tubes I found on eBay. Been working great. Especially for the ones with hooks.

1 hour ago, Yankee Troller said:

I am carrying Pro Guide lithium batteries at Krezner Marine. I carry the 100ah 12v, 24v, and 36v options. Everyone I've talked with about lithium batteries recommends going with a reputable brand and not cheap China junk from Amazon. Give me a call if you're interested.

So what specifically are the problems with the “china junk”? Curious so I can keep my eye out for these issues. Also, where are the cells and bms for pro guide lithium batteries produced? There website doesn’t have much info on their actual construction. I’m also interested in what makes them 2.5 times better than a cheap china lithium as $900 a piece compared to $350. I mean $2700 to run a trolling motor is pretty steep.

19 minutes ago, jj22 said:

Thanks. Do you mind telling me why brand you bought??

I bought ampere time off Amazon. They are on year 4 and have been great. Definitely saved a lot of money going off brand but be advised they do not have a low temp charge protection BMS. I already had the power pole charge so that handles that aspect. It’s just my opinion but I do not believe you will get a battery twice as good if you spend twice as much.  Seems like if you really dig into it there mostly all made in china anyway.

Also you did not mention your intended purpose for this battery. Not all of them are rated as crank batteries. So if your planning a dual purpose house/crank battery, that will really limit your options.

You are most likely referring to lithium ion batteries. They are different than lifepo4 batteries which are more stable and becoming very popular for marine applications. There biggest pros are double the run time and much lighter. The only cons in my opinion are the price and if you charge them in freezing temps you can permanently damage them. There are way’s around this though. Way to much info for me to explain. I recommend doing your research. My setup is 3 12v lifepo4 batteries running my 36v ulterra and my powerpole charge protects them from charging in freezing temps. The higher end batteries have internal circuitry to not allow charging at certain temps. The very high end ones even have heaters in them. I fish a lot of inland lakes and hardly use my kicker now. I can troll cranks at 2.5mph for 6-8 hours now. Would get maybe 3-4 hours previously. And I catch more in stealth mode with no kicker running.  
 

For Lake Ontario style fishing I still use the kicker. With riggers and divers it’s just to much drag for trolling motor only. 
 

I also dropped 150 pounds out of my boat. It handles much better.

1 hour ago, steelydan said:

Start with 4 different and let the fish tell you the true answers. 

Thank you! Kind of how I was leaning. Seems like it would be better to have one rod that’s close to the depth you need than 2 that are a ways off and need large adjustments with snap weights. Also you can only make lines go deeper, can’t make them any shallower so if I had say 2- 300’ ws and 2- 400’ ws and you need a 200’ your out of luck.  Based on reels I already have I think I’m going to set up 2- 200’,    1-300’, and 1- 400’ weighted steel. The shorter ones will also be nice for spring/ fall fishing and steelhead. Eh, it’s only money. 

Do you mean stacking? I generally run a fixed cheater.

Thanks again for all the responses. I get the feeling I’m being talked out of the longer lines. Which is fine. I do fully understand that sometimes less is more. I do fish alone at least half the time so I understand the ease of going with the riggers and dipseys  but I was just looking for ways to get extra lines in the water when I have more people on board. Even if it is only two more.  I do fish the finger lakes also and adding extra lines there would be beneficial. Was just wondering people’s opinion on how many of each length to carry if you were trying to limit rods. Thanks again.

I appreciate everyone’s replies. I already use everything that was mentioned. I have riggers, wire divers, mag dipseys, slide divers, chinook divers, fishhawk etc. my question was really just about long lines off boards. I’m not a fan of running double dipseys per side even though I know many do it well. I’m looking for a way to get a 5th and 6th rod out or even a 7th and 8th when we have 3 people on board. I’m very experienced with running boards but not so much on Ontario. My question was if you were trying to limit rods would you have 4 different length setups or double up two different lengths. Whether it’s weighted steel, copper or leadcore doesn’t matter to me. I’m more interested in what way an experienced Ontario fisherman would do it and why.

5 minutes ago, whaler1 said:

Will you be running riggers as well?

2 riggers and two dypsy’s will do some damage. 

Yes, I run 2 riggers and 2 dipseys now but sometimes I have one or 2 other people in the boat and could get more rods. I also thought maybe during summer when fish are getting hammered from every fire it would help to get things away from the boat. 21’ boat fishes 3 guys pretty comfortably.

Got a question for all you seasoned long liners. If you we’re starting to get into Lake Ontario trolling from a smaller boat, and wanted to limit long lines to 4 rods what would you do.

option one- two set ups of equal length, like 2- 200’ weighted steel and 2- 400’ weighted steel and try to use snap weights to fine tune depth.

option 2- have 4 different lengths and hopefully have one that would be useful depending on where fish are. Like 100’, 200’, 300’ and 400’. Guess you could fine tune these with snap weights as well. 
 

What’s your thoughts? I do a lot of inland striper, walleye, trout trolling and like having dual setups when running inline boards so I can mirror image my spread but not sure that’s the right plan for Ontario style fishing. Obviously there’s a much larger water column.

I hunt both in northeast pa. As far as woodcock go, I generally start seeing them around the last week of October here during there migration. Not many here the rest of the year. If your area doesn’t hold them year round and your depending on the migration bringing them in you may be late but I don’t know for sure.

For grouse, we have them but not in good numbers. Here your best chance of getting one is the first couple days of the season. Once they’ve been bumped a couple times they get real spookey and won’t hold and usually you just hear them.

Growing up we had a cabin in upstate New York. Around gouvereur. This was a long time ago but there was a lot of grouse there. If I was going to target grouse in New York and was willing to travel I’d probably start somewhere in the Adirondacks/upstate.

A trip to Michigan is an easy way to get these birds in numbers.


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