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Trolling82

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It depends on your boat. I have no idea how high the water line is. However, since trolling motors don't run at high speed you don't need to worry about where the prop is and how much bite it gets. My buddy has a Honda SS on his Chris Craft, when the motor is down about half the prop is above the keel. He has never had a lick of problems trolling or stearing. The only problem you might have is if you have to mount it high then the prop might want to start coming out of the water if the boat starts rolling. My rule of thumb when buying a kicker has always been look for a long shaft, if I can't find one for the right price, make due with what I can find.

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I tried looking up mounting height info on the net myself. Best advice I read was to mount your kicker so when it is in the down position the high exhaust exit is 1" above the water line. This makes sense to me, because if you mount to low you could potentially swamp your kicker motor. I need to dunk my boat as well to get a water line before I mount my bracket. Come on warmer weather!!

TD

"

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There are Brackets for outboards that drop the motor lower in the water you might use. The trick is to raise and tilt the motor clear of the bottom for high speed running. Then you have to hook up steering, throttle and shift control, starting and stopping. It is not good to hang over the transom to start and adjust the trolling motor.

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Mercury 15hp 2-stroke outboard with remotes and cables included. Short shaft (15") Manual start and trim. 1999 Serial #06928736 Purchased new in 2004. Excellent condition. Less than 50 hours of fresh water use (used on my duck boat) Tuned/serviced September 2009 with no issues. Starts, idles, shifts, and accelerates without hesitation. Motor can be seen and started for serious buyer. Upgraded boat and need a larger outboard. I will include the 6 gallon fuel tank and hose if picked up.

It's at $600 right now

Might go for more than what I want to spend but in case it doesn't, I want to be able to snatch it up if I can use it! :)

I thought I saw somewhere that you just have to line up the cavitation plate with the bottom of the hull where you are mounting it....

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Not true. The only thing you have to worry about, like Triple said, is to make sure the power head won't get swamped. If all you went on was that the cav. plate was below the hull, the whole outboard could be below the water the first time you used it. The cav. plate being below the hull is only necessary if you are planing the boat out. Since that motor probably won't push your boat any faster then, say, 6-8 mph at full throtle there is no need to worry where the prop is in the water... Other then to make sure it IS in the water.

So long as the prop is in the water it will push the boat. The only problem you run into, depending on how high the prop is, is that the prop may pull more water then is available. When that happens it start pulling air instead of water. If that happens it doesn't mean that you're dead, just that that's as fast as you'll go. Not to mention that it will sound like there's a blender on the back of the boat.

Here is how I have mounted every kicker that I have ever installed. Find the water line. Mine have always been easy since we don't wipe down the boat after use, so there is some scum left. Next, put the bracket all the way down. Place it on the transom and line up the bottom of the bracket with the water line. Measure from the top of the bracket down to the hull. This tells you how long the shaft needs to be to clear the hull. SS motors are 15" so as long as that distance isn't too much more then 15" there isn't a problem. If it's more then 20" then you can go get a long shaft if you want. Personly, I wouldn't since for your aplication the SS will still work just fine.

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I have to agree with Chowder .I have 1990 15hp Evinrude long shaft ,in rough seas on the Big O it would grab a little air on the prop on the crest of a wave and almost swamp on the troth.It's not so bad now I have a alum. boat it rides much higher in the water.On my glass boat it would almost swamp.My Evinrude has elec. Start .That thing has run like a Swiss watch,for years and has never skipped a beat.You get the right set up with your kicker and steering and for me it has been the best investment I have made for my boat.I did what Chowder said when I installed mine. I line the Cavitation plate up with each other with my motor trimmed down and that was about perfect.But that was outboard to outboard.

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Just saw this long drive 4.5 hrs for you?9.9 johnson boat motor - $350 (butler)

Date: 2010-02-25, 1:53PM EST

Reply to: [email protected] [Errors when replying to ads?]

think the motor is a 1990 or 1991 it is in good condition and i had it running this week used it all of last year it is a long shaft come see make me and offer just bought a new motor thank you jerry call 724 496-3782 or home 724-283-8035

Pittsburgh craigslist price is right.maybe junk?

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That yammy sounds like a great deal they are great motors.The 4 strokes are so quiet and sip gas.With controls and elec. start, that's a steal.When I'm ready to upgrade you can help me.I'm always looking at motors on the web looking for that dream deal.I saw this it's not a t-4 but I like the looks of it.It might save you a couple of bucks.http://www.glangler.com/framepages/motorsforsale.html

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Braved the roads today to drive from Horseheads to Canandaigua to get the outboard! Guy called me crazy! :D I said I was dedicated! :yes:

Anyway, motor looks mint. Probably could use a new prop. Besides some minimal paint fading from the sun it appears well taken care of. Now to get it mounted!

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