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Looking for some feed back on my A/P and a kicker.


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I have a 25’ Bayliner Trophy hardtop with a v6 I/O and this year we’ll be installing a Kicker. We have the new Raymarine SmartPilot X-5 Sport which is a helm control A/P. I was wondering if anyone has this configuration maybe not with the same A/P but something similar “a helm control A/P†Theirs a steering arm that goes from the I/O to the kicker to steer it and the kicker moves left and right really easy with out much effort, The question I have is with out my main engine running “cause I have power assist steering†is my A/P going to be able to steer the kicker? It doesn’t take much to turn the wheel with the out drive in its down position but you can defiantly feel the difference as opposed to when the engine is running.

And of course every marina is telling me that I shouldn’t have any trouble but would rather hear it from someone that has this configuration and what I should expect.

Any feed back would be appreciated. :yes:

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I hear you Tim, would have like to have gotten the simrad but theirs not enough room behind my helm for the motor. Sometimes where just forced to deal with what’s out there, maybe I should just go back to having the wife steer the boat. :lol:

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which means that Raymarine STILL hasn't designed a mechanically steered AP that is worth a crap for our application, just like the SP+.

Glad I axed the SP+ and got the simrad.

Tim

Tim, just curious, why not just change over to full hydraulic? I'm running a 240 Hardtop like yourself and it originally had a KING AP on it, when that gave up, a non-gyro Ray unit was installed along with full hydro to the helm. Head unit is a ST6002. I was contemplating a kicker install this winter and spoke with a few captains running the same full hydro unit along with EZ steer to a kicker and all had nothing but good to say about it. I've never done a price comparison between the Ray unit w/hydro steering vs. a Simrad unit, but the total for my Ray/Hydro install was close to 2100. To each his own I guess.

One thing I will say is that once you have the full Hydro to the helm, you'll never want to own a boat without it. Handling and steering response is greatly improved as well. Unit is very quiet also.

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S Mick,

4 years ago when I installed the Simrad it was $1200 including the new rotary steering cable. Changing over to Hyd steering and then buying the Hyd pilot was a LOT more money at the time and the simrad has worked pretty much flawlessly for me.

Tim

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Makes sense Tim. In my situation the cable and running gear was screwed up so the Hydro unit was opted for. Little more cash, but if the cable replacement wasn't an issue, the Simrad would have been going on. In the long run though, if a kicker install is being considered at some point, I would prolly rather have full hydro, as it requires less moving parts... Just less to break/easier to fix if it does I guess.

BTW, are you trolling down w/ bags or a plate, or utilizing both? Just wondering if you notice any difference in the way the AP and the boat act when bags are out if you use them. I know when fishing Erie this boat really settles down w/bags and the AP doesn't work nearly as much. I am thinkin this will be my deciding factor when debating the kicker install or not. I may be just complicating things and shooting myself in the foot if I choose to install one. Even though fishing Ontario does not require bags to be deployed for speed control purposes, I'm thinkin' I'll prolly put em out to settle the boat and hold course with less effort in regard to the AP.

Any thoughts?

Mick

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I have 2 of the 28" Amish Outfitter Beefy Bags that I troll with. The AP works ok with both but it seems to oversteer a lot with both bags deployed. It seems like it will turn a bit to correct course which will caus the outside bag to swing out and put hard an turn the boat that direction and then that causes the bag on the other side to do the same, so with the AP correcting constantly, the nose of the boat swings back and forth. I've found that that doesn't happen with just 1 bag out so that's what I usually troll with.

Ther two bags help smooth the ride out in water rough enough where the AP has trouble holding course anyways (meaning in rough water where I'm not using the AP).

I don't need the bags to get speed, I use em for 2 reasons 1) to increase my rpms a couple hunderd and improve oil pressure to the engine and 2) better/ more precise throttle control once you get past that idle/not idle threshold with the I/O.

Tim

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I assume you have added cleats at midship to tie off to w/bags? Basically same setup here, and use them for the same reasons, except I need to get down to 1.2-1.5 when turnin' colorado blades for eyes. Interesting w/ the 1 bag deployment, are you placing on the leeward side when trolling at angle into seas? Also, how tight do your Outfitter bags run in relation to the hull?

-Mick

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I didn't add em, the boat came with spring cleats right at the front of the hardtop on each side. I have the bags set up so that they run right about at the back of the HT and have ropes tied to the back of the bags that get looped around the big jon double rod holder to keep then close to the boat and to make pulling them out of the water easier.

at idle with both bags in they just about drage me to a dead stop.

cleats are right over the porthole windows on both sides

boat3.jpg

the rope at the back of the bags are tied off to the big jon rod holders behind Adam in this pic (btw, the rope in this pic is a bow line, not the bag rope)

IMG_0455.jpg

Tim

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Looks good! Do you think running the bags futher towards the transom may help you keep course? I was told 6" from the transom, and to keep em' as close as possible. I would think attaching them at a point closer to the rear (Midship) would make them less prone to pull the bow around inturn making the AP work double time?? I dunno just a thought.

Anyways, Sorry to Hijack the thread H-Office, my apologies.

Mick

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