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Planer Board Tactics


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I have purchased a new boat and I am having planner boards installed. I have never used them before. Seems pretty simple though. I will be fishing there in mid April. I plan on running two lines per side for browns. My main question is, how far behind the relase do run your lures. I know that you have to stagger them. Any tips on this subject. ie: speed, lure selection, tips, tricks etc. would be appreciated.

Thanks

Woody

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You're going to get a lot of different answers on this one. For me it depends on water clarity. I sometimes run them back about 100 feet in colored water and will put them back as much as 250 in clear water. I usually put each line 10 or 20 feet shorter than the previos line out. That just helps get the fish by the other lines when realing it in. Your outside lines will automatically be further back anyway due to the angle of your tow line, so if it's not to rough and windy, I will sometimes run them all the same length.

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I prefer stick baits myself but lots of guys have good luck with spoons like stingers, cleos, Northern King C5's just to name a few. I use a mix of Jr Thundersticks, Yo Zuri crystal minnows, Rapalas. I like natural colors like Black/silver, Blue/silver, Bleeding Shad for clear water and colors like fire tiger, chartruese, orange, perch and such in colored water.

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I prefer spoons, only one set of trebles to deal with, can vary depths and action with speed and lead length. When using sticks I'll remove the front trebles and re-tune. Lots of choices out there, choose wisely, it's cheaper.

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I never did understand why people said to stagger the lines. Let's say you start 60 feet back on the outside line and put three on a side. if your first hit is on the outside, after everything is reset you will have lines at 50, 40, 30. The next release you will be at 40,30, and 20. You soon will have lines right at the release, and every reset you will have lures closer to the boat, which is usally contrary to your objective. My suggestion is to carefully set all the lines to the same distance. When a fish bites just hold the rod for a short period of time to let it clear the other lines.

i know some run spoons, but the disadvantage is that anytime you have a slack line to the board, those lures are scratching bottom. More chance for breakoffs. I have caught lots of fish on turns and doing S trolling where the sticks float up, then dive when the slack is gone.

I might add that for releases you will be happy with clippers. i have used all types. One thing about the shower curtain type or any other type that has a high proifle is the chance the releases down the line that are unused will swing back over the planer line, and catch a line with it. On the clippers i epoxy the slot closed, and run the ski line through the hole. This also keeps another line from finding its way down in the slot.

One more tip. if you put a swivel up about 10' from the lure it helps to catch small weeds, instead of them hanging on the lure rendering it useless. Tie the lure on with a Rapala knot or a small snap for good action.

Good fishing.

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I have to agree with rod buster. I run all the same length leads on each board, because when the rods start going, your stagger goes out the window. Run your lines as close to the tow line as you can, and still get hits. You will get better hook-ups (less line stretch) and will boat fish more quickly.

I prefer spoons (make my own for about $1.50 instead of a $6 stick bait) you can run a little faster and cover more water.

When I do run sticks, it seems best to run all sticks on one side and not mix with spoons. Put them on the other board. Just watch your turns with spoons, I have gotten in the habit of speeding up on turns to avoid hanging bottom. You will be surprised how many fish are into sudden speed changes. I also run a small split shot ahead of the lure to stop the weeds.

Good luck and pay attention to the details. They will last a lifetime.

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RodBuster,

You are correct about staggering the lines. I'm a fan of long lines and usually start with them back a couple hundred feet because I find I have more hookups back there, especially in clear water. I will run shorter in colored water but usually I run them way back. I like to troll fast, so I don't have much trouble hooking fish, and of course I sharpen every hook. Starting that far back gives me more releases before they start to get too short. I usually have a minimum setback and stop staggering them when I reach that point. If the rods are still firing and I'm not getting tangles, I just keep setting them at that distance, but if things slow or I get messes, I reset to my original setup. I just find that its too easy to get tangles if I don't stagger them, especially if I'm quartering the waves or trolling in the through.

I love the clipper releases. I have 18 of them strung on each tow line. I run the tow line through the larger holes in the side instead of the smaller hole that you use. I find that they slide down the tow line easier. It was kind of a pain, but I put a short piece of copper tubing through each one, which prevents the tow line from cutting slots in the release and it helps them slide out the line better. I'm soon going to change them out with some new ones and I think I'll try to glue in a piece of plastic tubing instead of copper, if I can find something. That will make them lighter.

I use a bead chain swivel about 8 feet up from the lure like you were saying and then I put a split shot in front of it to collect the weeds and stuff. You have to be careful of putting your swivel too far up the line or you won't be able to reach the fish with the net, unless you have a boat full of experienced anglers.

Another thing that I do is to snap a release like an Offshore downrigger release onto my tow line a couple feet up from the planer board. This acts as a stop for any releases that have slid down to the tow board after a strike. I'm always fearing that my tow board will break off, most likely next to the knot, and I would loose all my releases. When I used to use the shower curtain rings, I've had them slide down over the eyebolt if I wasn't paying attention when letting the line out, and usually you can't get them to slip back over the eyebolt without pulling the line out of the release. This will help prevent that situation too if you are using the shower curtain rings.

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Something to think about when running spoons in the shallows (if you are less than 15 feet)--- if you get a big one on and are bumping neutral to get the fish in and net him, those spoons will sink to the bottom and can get caught up, whereas a rapala will stay floating and will not hang up. This is particularly true when you run 1-2 small split shot 6-8 feet above the lure to keep it down a few feet-- which is my preference. Just food for thought...

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