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Electric Reels & copper line


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The season is here. I have had good look with copper lines but find them difficult to retrieve when speed is needed and help is short. I found that most tournaments do not accept electric reels to catch the fish. Except for handicap purposes. The solution I found can be adapted to several reels, I use Penn 345GT2, 330GT2, and others. So one drive on the boat that can retrieve several different lines. The Turn-A-Mate drive comes off in literally a second and you are back to hand crank reel and IGFA legal. Check it out. http://www.elec-tra-mate.com/

Edited by Pennfish
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Thats a big investment. I talked to them last year to see if I could get a loaner to try out. I think it makes a ton of sense especially with the poor ratio of the 345. I kept begging and telling them this could open a new market for them. Results: No loaner.

They dont have refurbs to loan out. The rebuild and refresh and send right back out I was told. They build to order as well. Nice folks.

I waas going to do it with the pulg that would fit the downrigger power. This way no extra battery to trip on under foot.

Good luck if you do it. Let us know.

Brad

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Brad,

Yes loaners are not there. One drive for many reels is better than one reel with an attached drive. My 345GTI has been replaced with a 345GT2. One mistake people look at when rating reels is the gear ratio. When looking for faster reels look retrieve rate in feet per turn. You will be suprised to see that even some higher gear ratios retrive at less feet per turn.

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  • 4 years later...

copper takes alot of endurance.i fish with some young guys who run three copper rods .2 on planers and one out the back.Cant compete with them on fish but than again i fish solo alot and cant run more than 3 rods anyway.I have parkinson so someday ill probably will need one.I was going to buy a cheap one but found it unable to buy parts and it had no levelwind

i did fish with some fellow fishermen who have advanced PD.They realy have a hard time reeling but love to fish.Maybe next year ill set up the boat so its easier on them and might get a electromate to go with my penn330 gti ive been buying on ebay cheap.rather buy a used penn than a import anyday

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It would be great to just hear from one or two guys that have used these.  I have seen them before and they just look so bulky.  I guess I am having trouble envisioning it.   For my boat,  electric would be nice to reel in coppers for a lure change or when picking up and moving or end of the day.  How many times have a lot of us left a rig on a 600-700 copper too long without a bite cause we didn't want to keep reeling it in. I can't be the only one guilty of that :)

 

I see nothing wrong with it, but I personally wouldn't want to reel in a fish that way.  I have electric downriggers, electric planer board reels - why not the copper ?

Edited by Fishtails
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My solution to the long copper situation was to use shorter ones (250's) and use weight with them rather than reeling in all that stuff. I know it may not be as "stealthy" as some folks might say but it can work and you can get the fish in faster to release them (as some of us do). 

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Sorry , if you are in good health , And you can't or are to lazy to turn the reel handle to retrive the rig or play the fish,don't use copper IMO.

I suppose you dont have electric riggers or a motor on the boat? We are already using all kinds of technology whats the difference. If someone wants or needs some help with long coppers its fine by me. There still is no wrong legal way of fishing.

Sk8man how do you figure depth when you weight a shorter cooper?

Sent from my LG-L38C using Lake Ontario United mobile app

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Justin luckily my approach with the trout/salmon isn't as exacting as yours with the walleye and especially fishing out in the middle of these deeper lakes where I don't have to be as concerned about structural contours.  I "guesstimate" along with watching the angle of my line and the speed I'm traveling....not real scientific but it can work I usually use from 4 to 10 ounces of weight (sometimes fixed sometimes sliding). It is kinda like using the Seth Green rig without all the leaders (up and down within the water column "prospecting") and it certainly isn't as easy to repeat in an exact sense as in your methods for walleye either. I usually am within the top 80 ft of  so in the water column with all my stuff anyway because I try to avoid the lakers except during derbies :lol: I should also qualify this as relating to fishing the Finger Lakes not fishing Ontario (different water and different approach)

Edited by Sk8man
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My solution to the long copper situation was to use shorter ones (250's) and use weight with them rather than reeling in all that stuff. I know it may not be as "stealthy" as some folks might say but it can work and you can get the fish in faster to release them (as some of us do). 

While you may achieve the same depth - its a PITA in my opinion...especially if trying to run them out on boards with the added weight and trying to set them with dipseys on the same side...

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You got it Justin. Angling Addict....most of the time I'm limited to three rods as I am solo so it is an easy spread :)  but they can be run in multiples off my 15 ft. outriggers too if need be with about 40 ft total width to work with. On the in lines usually one copper per side with dipseys on the inside without the boards.

Edited by Sk8man
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What I first posted about this subject was deleted by the moderator.Something about a guy fishing like a cat as I recall.  When it gets to the point where I push a button to play my fish, I'm done with it.

 

Yes I have Elec riggers (on my big boat) and a motor. I also steal a cookie from the jar once in a while, Dosn't mean I condone bank robbery.

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I have used the Penn electric powered reels while cod fishing at 300 feet down. Yes they work great and fast, but you better fish with 80 or 100 pound test line (not mono) and hold on to that rod  because that little motor is strong and if you don't hold that rod real tight it will rip out of your hands and into the water. As for rods,it better be a heavy duty salt water rod or it might just break.

The cheap solution is replacing the that nice shiny nut that's in the center of the handle on your 345 with a big fat old nut that you can put a socket on. Now you can use an 18 volt drill probably not for fighting a fish ,but certainly for quick retrieval without getting muscle aches

Edited by rolmops
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I have no experience with the device discussed above in this thread, but I do have some experience with electric reels. When my father was aging and began to havie difficulty landing fish, I did some research on electric reels and at that time (about 10 years ago) the consensus among regular users of electric reels was that the reel-add-on devices were a pita to use, unreliable, and lacked the necessary capacity to adequately perform their intended job when used for trolling. Just about everyone warned that purchasing such a device was a waste of money, so I took their advice and got my dad a frequently recommended Miya Epoch electric reel. 

 

Here's my thoughts on using an electric reel for trolling based on observing my father use that Miya Epoch for a few years:

 

You can't ignore the laws of physics or abandon common senseElectric reels, sized for our fisheryare not designed to be, nor will they function as, continuous duty winches.

 

You can't just mount them to a rod and press a button and winch in a 30lb salmon. You still have to set the drag the same way as a regular reel. You don't need a special heavy-duty rod, and you don't have to use 80 or 100lb test line as suggested in a post above (you're still using just 3-4 lbs of drag). That person is describing how heavy-duty gear is used for offshore predator fish, not great lakes trolling for salmon.

 

When fighting a fish with an electric reel, you use the electric reel at the same time you would turn the crank of a conventional reel. Once the fish stops running and you start to pump the rod, you press the button as you lower the rod tip and recover a few feet of line. When the line becomes tight again, you release the power button and lift up on the rod again. If you keep the motor running full time as you pump the rod two things happen. 1) The motors get hot and you will burn the motors up prematurely (this is not covered under the mfg warranty) and/or 2) you will wear the drags out prematurely (this also is not covered under the warranty). If you fish with an overly heavy drag your more likely to burn the motor, and if you fish with an overly loose drag you're more likely to burn the drags washers. There is an acceptable range of drag tension each particular reel is designed to work at and you must match this drag setting range to what you would normally set your reels at. 

 

As to using the reel to clear a line this will work as long as the rig your trolling could be recovered by a conventional reel and normal drag setting by a person simply turning the handle of the reel. If it's a heavier rig and would normally require a person to pump the rod and recover the line on the rod tip drop, you can't simply press the button on an electric reel and expect it to recover the line. If you tighten the drag and try to use it like a winch, in time you'll overheat the motor and burn it up. If you have deep pockets then have at it, but most of us don't.

 

Again, you can't avoid the laws of physics or common sense. A rod with an electric reel with the drag set to slip at three pounds of pull must be worked in the same way as a conventional reel with it's drag set to slip at three pounds of pull. You only press the button at the same time you would turn the handle. i don't know anyone (with the exception of a first timer) who madly cranks a reel handle continuously until a 30lb salmon is netted. You can't use the electric reel like that either.

Edited by John E Powell
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That sounds like a good solution for someone who needs assistance. Did it work well for your dad?

Sent from my LG-L38C using Lake Ontario United mobile app

 

It allowed my dad to land some fish for a couple extra years. Near the end of our fishing time together, his arthritis was quite debilitating and his balance kept him tied to a seat and out of the back of the boat, so he pretty much took over the role of supervisor and chief prognosticator as we fished with friends. For me, it was sort of like one of those credit card commercials where the electric reel was the third purchase providing the priceless memorable experience.

 

I've since retired the reel to my shelf of mementos. Maybe some day I'll need it and bring it out of retirement.

Edited by John E Powell
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I have a Diawa Tanacom Bull 1000. It works great. It holds around 700 ft of 45lb copper. It has a short stop on it. Similar to Cannon Downriggers. Hit the retrieve switch and it will automatically stop about 15 ft from the reel. This set up works great when I am fishing with my wife. I usually run it down the middle. When we are hooked up with a fish on a different rod, it is easy to clear the middle.

Al

Thanks

Al

HOOKNUP 2

Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United mobile app

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  • 10 months later...

Well It bit the bullet and bought the fish wench.It worked great especialy that big laker.It was a long fight but not exhausting.My Parkinson has advanced so i can't reel like I use to.The copper of course makes the fight greater.I can't interchnge it to the other reels though,The really good fish took the other penn 345 .Took over half of the 300 yds backer on two long runs before we lost him.

Love copper fishing very very productive and larger fish also.

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