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Trailer Lights


Gray Fox

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Im not at all mechanically inclined so Im gonna ask a question to those who are... I plugged in my trailer lights this afternoon and blew the fuse for the trailer tail lights. I still have brake lights and turn signals which are on other fuses. I changed the fuse and it blew again as soon as I plugged the lights in. Would the problem be on the trailer end or the vehicle (vehicle is still under warranty). Thanks for the help.

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You've obviously got a direct short someplace. I'd suspect the vehicle however without testing with a volt/ohmmeter in, very hard to tell.

Could be a short in the vehicle harness gizmo. Did it happen last year/different vehicle? Got a friend who's willing to hook his vehicle up to your trailer?

Tom B.

(LongLine)

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Im not at all mechanically inclined so Im gonna ask a question to those who are... I plugged in my trailer lights this afternoon and blew the fuse for the trailer tail lights. I still have brake lights and turn signals which are on other fuses. I changed the fuse and it blew again as soon as I plugged the lights in. Would the problem be on the trailer end or the vehicle (vehicle is still under warranty). Thanks for the help.

Trailer circuit is am entirely separate circuit from your brakes & turn signals. That being said it your vehicle lights are all operative after you replaced the fuse and it then blew when you plugged in the trailer again the short is in the parking light circuit on the trailer. Check the brown wire from the trailer plug back thu the trailer to and including the light sockets themselves for a grounded or chaffed wire.

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Definitely a direct short, I think it's probably in the trailer wiring.

You can easily check for a short by putting an ohm meter on at the trailer plug between the white wire (ground) and the brown wire (tailights). If you have continuity there (0 ohms) then you will have to find the short, which can be fun. Look for anyplace where the wires can rub against the trailer frame, is pinched under clips, or where it passes through passage holes. Could also be in any of the lights themselves. Usually turns into a process of elimination, one step at a time.

Good luck

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Definitely a direct short, I think it's probably in the trailer wiring.

You can easily check for a short by putting an ohm meter on at the trailer plug between the white wire (ground) and the brown wire (tailights). If you have continuity there (0 ohms) then you will have to find the short, which can be fun. Look for anyplace where the wires can rub against the trailer frame, is pinched under clips, or where it passes through passage holes. Could also be in any of the lights themselves. Usually turns into a process of elimination, one step at a time.

Good luck

you would have to take the bulbs out or the current would flow through them making the ohm meter read. There was an article in an old popular Mechanics they made a jumper that would go from one side of the fuse to the other. There was a 12v lite socket in it and it was long enough to hang under the car. It would take the place of the fuse. The bulb would be lit when the circuit had its short. You took the bulbs out of the circut. You then wiggled the wires untill the light went out and you were near the short.. I would think the problem was in the trailer wiring.

The Islander I fixed up had sat for 10 years the trailer wires on that had all been stripped of insulation the length of the trailer by mice. All 20+ feet. :@ Good luck

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The most important circuit on a trailer is the ground circuit. When your lites have problems run a wire as heavy as your other wires from the brass nuts on the lites to each other and then to the white wire off your connector. The manufacturers save a couple pennies when building a trailer but you will eventually have problems like the wrong signal blinking as the trailer gets old and the frame starts corroding.

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I had problems with trailer wiring not to long ago, not the same as yours, I had a bad ground and bad light sockets, the bulbs would work lose. You have a direct short. I have a new set of connectors (plugs), The plug wires take a beating and I find half the trouble with lights are in the couplings.I'd just buy a new harness for your truck, un plug the old one and plug in the new one and wire in the trailer plug.Don't spend any money till you check for a short the others mentioned .If all else fails maybe you should rewire the trailer,get rid of the old style lights and get LED lights.That will take care of the shorts and blown bulbs if you forget to unplug before you dip them into the water. Good luck :)

Hey I just reread the other posts and that test plug Fsn mentioned looks good.

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I'm with WWIV. Start over new. I hate debugging trailer lights. For the cost of new lights and wires, I don't waste my time. The LED's are really nice but expensive if you go with them. With LED's make sure you get a popular brand so you can find replacements when/if you need them.

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Dear Grey Fox,

Who installed the vehicle trailer connection? Test this plug first. Have you used this vehicle before with a trailer? After testing the tow vehicle plug for proper circuit, then examine the trailer wiring and lights. The newer tow vehicle circuits have caused many a grey hair.

Respectfully submitted,............Jet Boat Bill

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Thanks for the input guys. This is the first I have tried to tow with this vehicle. I'm gonna "guinea pig" my fathers truck tonite as a test. I used the truck to tow last year with no problems.

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