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Rigging Subtroll Cable


Viking Ship

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Guys,

Just did a bunch of searching on the site and couldn't find what I was looking for. Here's my question...

Bought a Subtroll 900 and am reading the installation instructions provided. When it comes to the coated rigger cable I'm looking for some tips. I have Cannon riggers with autostop.

I guess I can't use the black plastic autostop clip. So it suggests I bare 6 feet of cable that need to contact the set screw on the reel. Then it says the probe will take the place of the black plastic clip. Meaning my autostop will engage when the probe exits the water, as long as I leave 1/4" of metal exposed?

I can't visualize what the whole thing looks like where the probe attaches. The instructions describe attaching the thimble to the upper eye of the probe and then taping the whole thing. Only thing is then the probe cannot be removed. Seems like everyone's probe I've ever seen attaches to the cable with a snap swivel? Then it recommends 18" of cable below the probe where the ball attaches...help!

Where does my rigger release go in all of this?

Are the thimble and crimp sleeves the best way to attach the cable? They mention a modified Klincher in lieu of the crimping sleeves.

Thanks in advance, can't be that hard, I'm just having trouble visualizing.

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I use Walker clincher releases on my cable. This is a clincher terminal with a Blacks type release in one assembly which is pretty handy.

Step 1: Drill out the rivet on the clincher release that holds the swivel clip and install a stainless steel machine screw, washer and self locking nut.

Ste[ 2: Install a heavier swivel and clip such as those from Cannon. The swivel must be a bright metal, not the dark metal some brands use.

Step 3: Strip the sheathing off the last foot of cable.

Step 4: Install the clincher on the cable right up to the sheathing. This leaves you with extra stripped cable to make your electrical connection.

Step 5: Back off the nut on the machine screw and capture the tagg end of the bare cable under the screw and then tighten it down. Cut off the excess.

Step 6: Coat the exposed cable and hardware with liquid electrical tape. Coat most of the top probe eye with this as well. You will have enough exposed surface to trigger your auto stop, if not, scrap away more of the liquid tape until the auto stop regains function.

This leaves you with a removeable connection that works great and lasts a long time. It allows you to remove your probe at will. Your Cannon auto stop will trigger when the probe comes out of the water.

I'm not a fan of the swage cable crimps, I used Cannon terminals on both ends of my short cable. This is a personal preference only. Many people use the swages with good luck. You can buy the short drop cables pre-made if you like.

The shorter cable comes off the bottom of the probe to the cannon ball. This cable is a lighter tensile strength to allow your ball to break off before your probe breaks in case of a hang up. You don't need to insulate this cable or its connections.

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I just installed my DR and used the same knot I use on my wire divers . I went about 3" up the end of the cable and striped about an inch of coating off so the bare spot would make contact with the swivel . I also added a rubber stopper from my Cannon terminator kit I had so my cable retriever wouldn't slip over the swivel . Fish last weekend had 150' of cable out and still had a great signal . DR gives you some special tape I used to cover the bare ends. Used the same knot to make my short cable from the prob to the weight.

Good Luck ! JT

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  • 1 year later...

What I do to remove the coating is to use a utility knife to carefully "skin" it off; then heat the exposed wire with a lighter; then just buff it with some very fine sandpaper. I then make sure the thimble is stainless steel. I also make sure that the wire is tight to the thimble as I crimp it. I run a Black's on the cable and often use a cannon pinch pad for a stacker. No issues.

Tom B.

(LongLine)

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  • 11 months later...

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