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Garmin TR1 Gold Auto Pilot


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Guys - looking to add an auto pilot to my 9.9 Honda Kicker this Spring. I have a Troll Master for speed control on it now but looking for an auto pilot to run my boat while trolling. Main motor is a Merc Crusier but use the Honda 100% of the time when trolling. Anyone willing to share their experience/knowledge with the TR1 to help me make the decision?

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I have the TR-1 on my Honda 9.9 and love it. The only problem I've had with it was a broken compass which I think I broke switching it from my old boat. The only time I don't use the TR-1 is when the lake is rough. I've never heard anyone be dissappointed with the TR-1.

Brian

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I have the tr-1 I love it never had a problem with it yet ,been using it for about 5 years now. I have a 25 footer with a 15 HP honda, I've fished in 5 footers with it and stays pretty much on track. Once you learn how to fine toon it you will be golden. A bit pricey but well worth the money. You will want to get extra oil with it because you will have to top it off every now and then. Hope this helps you and good luck fishing.

Jersey Jim :yes::yes::beer:

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Thanks for the responses. Couple of questions for you or others that have them.

Did you do your own install and how difficult is it? Any advice here on things to look out for would be much appreciated.

Do you guys do anything special with your batteries. I'm concerned with the TR1 always working and the rest of my electronics going that I could have an issue when I go to start the big motor? Thanks.

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I did my own installation and it was fairly straight forward. Calibrating the unit is easy and only takes a few minutes. I run all my electronics (X-4, fishfinder, GPS & radio) and don't have any problems with the kicker keeping everything charged. I don't do anything special with the batteries.

Brian

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I have a auto pilot made by Panther called a T-4...sold by the same company that sells you troll-master. I have a 27 ft Baha with a mercury 9.9 mounted in the center as my boat is a inboard. The unit cost less than $500 bucks and for $200 more you get a wireless remote for it. I have had mine for 3 years and spend 60 plus days on the water trolling 6-12 hrs a day and have NEVER had a problem with it. Took about 2 hrs to install and can be used with your Troll-master speed control...I have a Pro 3 on mine. good luck

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I'm also considering a TR 1 for my 15 hp Honda and have several questions. Do you have the control cable at the helm or do you move it around as needed. Is the wireless remote something to consider? Also its been mentioned to have extra fluid for top offs. Since my control unit will not be easily acessable how off should it be checked?

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I personally haven't had to add fluid to my unit other than when I moved it from one boat to another. As for the remote, my remote is not wireless. I remember the wireless option was a bit expensive and I felt (and still feel) it wasn't worth the extra money. I have it mounted with velcro from a post on my hardtop.

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I have the wire remote velcro to my dash and it reaches to the back of the boat with no problem. I was afraid that i would lose the wireless remote over board when things got hot and heavy. I use my boat every weekend and the oil has to be top off at leased once a season.

Jersey Jim

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Mine is velcro mounted also, and comes with 18' cord. After a full season, had to top with about 1 oz. fluid. Installation was done by a professional, but with enough time it would be a fairly easy self-install. Component placement determinations were my reason for not self-installing. As far as battery power, I have a seperate battery to power this unit alone. The Honda 9.9 alternator keeps it fully charged. Was concerned that the main battery might have a problem running all the riggers and electronics as well as the auto-pilot and power trim and have enough to restart the main motor after a full day of trolling. Didn't want to chance it, but think all would work from main battery alone. Wouldn't attemp it with an older main battery though.

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Thanks for all of your input. It helps out alot. One more question. Do any of you guys take your Kicker off for the winter. If yes, Do you have to disconnect the lines from you Kincker or did you set your lines up with quick disconnects. Any advise here would be appreciated. Thanks.

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My kicker stays on all the time. I winterize it the same as the main motor in late fall by changing the lower unit oil, cleaning/replacing the plugs, and fogging the engine.

Mine is not used in the winter, so it's ready to go for springtime trolling. My winter fishing is rare, but when I go it's river fishing. That means main motor and electric trolling motor. Drift fishing! The main gets lowered completely at the end of trip to drain water from cooling system (on land after loading on trailer) and is run dry for 3-5 seconds to get out last few drips. In garage, storage with motor all the way down.

Had a problem once with a 50 Merc because it was storred outdoors with the motor in a tilted position. Had a freeze problem because I didn't cover the underwater exhaust port (EVERYTHING else was covered). Snow/rain got in there over the winter because motor left in tilted-up position. The thaw/freeze cycle resulted in cracked gears (not housing) which became obvious during first spring outing.

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I leave my kicker on for the winter. It wouldn't be hard to take the kicker off. There are (if I remember correctly) 2 lines going to the kicker; one goes to a spark plug and the other goes to the throtte. The hydraulic cylinder is held on with 2 clips and can be removed in a few seconds. No need to open a hydraulic line. Hope this helps.

Brian

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