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Penn Yan / Bayliners - Thumbs Up or Down?


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Thanks for the info. I've seen some Penn Yans that needed reinforcing where their engine mounts met the hull frame...anything like that in your experience? Is there anything I should be aware of if I'm interested in one of these boats? Did either of your boats have tunnel drive?

- Jeff

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I picked up my first Penn Yan last December. It's a 1991 215 Tempest (V 6 Merc) that had not been run for over 2 years. I rebuilt the carb, plugs, wires, rotor, two new batteries and replaced the impeller. Still needs some minor tweeks but man what a fishing machine.

I put well over 75 care free hours on her this year over about a dozen trips on Lake O. These boats were built for fishing, you'll love the layout.

Coulden't be happier with mine, hate to put her away till spring.

Good Luck!

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Never had a problem with the engine mounting area. My current boat has modified pocket drives, not a tunnel drive. I've owned three Penn Yan's: Two I/O's and this current twin pocket drive. I've loved them all. But definitely have a survey done before you pull the trigger. Best money you'll spend on a boat.

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Thank you all for the information. This will be my first boat (other than a 12 foot Jon boat that has already cost an arm and a leg - but nothing compared to what I'm to expect with a bigger boat I understand).

It's amazing how many different warning signs I've seen in the last four months looking at boats - light brown oil under the engine, hull work covered by a "keel guard", moldy cabins, reinforced engine mounts, and winterized boats (in the middle of summer) that the owners would not prep for a sea trial. The scariest thing is that in every case the owners would not fess up to any problems and said their boats were in "excellent" and "perfect" condition and "needed nothing". I'm starting to think buying a boat is worse than buying a used car.

After all this, I will absolutely have any potential boat surveyed and checked by a Merc mechanic if possible. Again, thanks for all your input.

One question for Bill - what is a pocket drive vs. a tunnel drive?

Tight lines...

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  • 4 weeks later...

I have run both. We had a 1985 Penn Yan 21'. It lasted us till we stepped into a 1990 Bayliner 2556. The Penn Yanis down at Hanks marina on Port bay currently and the owner loves the boat. Original motor without any motor mount issues. Only thing that went bad on the boat was the fiberglass piece over the gas tank, which was an easy fix. It handled really well in rough seas. The Bayliner we have now is a great boat too. Lots of fishing room and and the layout is unheard of in a 25' boat. We fish 6 guys on it alot and it has pleanty of room. AS for spending the weekend on it.....great for that too. Only problem with this boat is it is a little underpowered with 6 guys planing is hard and speed is lower 20's.

To answer your question above.....I only know what a tunnel drive is. Basically there is a half moon shapped tunnel that the prop and shaft sit in instead of them being under the boat.. It is very popular in low water places like ohio.

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My cousin's well used Penn Yan had the bearing in his outdrive fail. He replaced it and it failed again after a few weeks use. It turned out that his engine mount stringers rotted out. He had the engine pulled out and new stringers installed but they were not lined up correctly. They tried again and got it right. The boat is fine now. I think they used a better type of wood for the stringers.

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Whatever brand you decide on, absolutely get it surveyed if you can,or at the very least, don't be afraid to look in every single area that you can possibly squeeze your head into.

Pay particular attention to the transom and hull,by knocking on it every few inches.If you hear any change in sound from a solid thud to a hollow sound,be wary.

If you can get a decent look into the bilge or any other exposed areas,where you can see the stringers,check to see if the limber(drain)holes in the stringers are clear.

Knock on them also,and listen for any change in sound.

Pay attention to the deck/floor,jump on it a little and make sure it's solid.If you see any exposed foam make sure it's dry.

I work for a fiberglass marine distributor,and we have done several restorations,and sold lots of supplies to guys fixing glass boats,so we see all the problems that occur,"commonly" with glass boats.

The most common problems which can be significant,and expensive to fix are,

* rotted wood in the stringers.

* saturated foam

* rotted core in the transom

* rotted core in decks and floors

* corroded aluminum fuel tanks

If you find any of these problems,keep looking,unless you like to spend lots of money,or like to do alot of nasty dirty smelly work yourself.

Also, these problems are not limited to cheap boats only,we've seen them on all brands of boats,including prestigious brands like Bertrams.

I have three glass boats now, a 22' Trophy thats 20 yr's old but very solid

It fishes well,and despite the bad reputation that Bayliner had,it's really been a very good boat for L.O. It's in excellent cond.

a Chris-Craft that looks beautiful,but has a rotted deck, rotted stringers and a rotted transom that we discovered after we pulled the engine and drive out. Actually we bought it just for the engine,but if anyone looked at it,and even took a ride in it,they would have thought it was solid,even though it wasn't

A 23' SeaCraft that is in the process of a total restoration,had to replace the entire transom,and some of the deck that was rotted,but considering that it's 33 yrs old,it was expected.Fortunately,the stringers were made of fiberglass with no wood.

As other replies said, it's worth spending the money for a good survey.It would be well worth the cost.

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  • 1 month later...

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