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Floor repair


FISHINMAN

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I am beginning to repair my floor and am looking for a material and some input. As you can see I have taken the cover over the gas tank out and am gonna replace the wood that has gotten a little soft in one spot (there is a metal cover that goes over it too) and I am wondering if I should use a piece of Hardwood or will a piece of 3/4 inch plywood suffice with some sort of water repelent treatment on it be OK? This was nasty oil, grease, grim, fish blood I am sure, water and dirt muck! I also am looking for some of this styrofaom that is under the wood and is crushed and nasty.

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Next is the material where can I buy some locally and I want to replace just the back half from the rear seat mounts to the back (the rest is a whole lot more work and it's in very good shape after I scrub it up with soap :) ) I want to cut it back at the seat mounts and then place a new peice down but don't want the seam where they come together to get torn or have water seap in. So I thought about sealing it with some sort of "marine glue" and then put a metal strip over it sort of like the ones you see in the pic that hold it up to the sides.

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Any input or suggestions would be greatly appreciated :):)

BOY IT'S NICE TO HAVE A GARAGE TO DO THIS STUFF IN AFTER 13 YEARS :shock: :):):)

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Your going to want some Marine grade plywood, its the only thing thats going to hold for a good long time. The stuff ain't cheap, but you really don't want to do this every 2-3 years. For the floor covering try boats usa or west marine.

ffm

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Fishinman

I replaced the entire wood floor in my boat 2 years ago after 20 yrs. It had rotted out around the floor compartment/storage hatch. I figure moisture sat around the aluminum trim opening and was trapped. I bought ¾â€Â

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Bob I like the Durabak stuff but I am wondering what kind of coverage it has at $90 plus a gallon. Do you know if anybody carries it locally like West marine? If I used that I would do the whole floor with it. Looks like it is easy to keep clean.

Thanks for the replies that's what this board and it's members are all about :D:D

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I don't have any idea how much it covers. A quick email or call to the company ought to be able to tell you. You might also check in your area for a "Rhino-Liner" dealer to see if they have applied that stuff to any boats and what the price was. That Durabak looks easy enough to use but like you say how much more than a gallon would you need. Good luck and let us know how you made out.

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I used 1/2 inch "treated plywood" from Home Depot in my Lund. The old boards were used to trace a pattern. The old rugs were glued back in. I have some worries about the "copper" fungicides in the treated plywood, but we'll see what happens. If I had to do it again, I'd try diamond plate aluminum for the decks as you wouldn't need carpets or rubber matting. I'm not an "appearance freak", just want good function for my boat. If you went with diamond plate, you'd need to install your seat mounts before you fasten the deck down.

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Tom.......I did the exact boat over 2 years ago....let me now if you need any pointers. While you have the floors up you should seriously consider replacing the livewell hose as they are prone to dry rot. Also...you cant see them, but there are screws that run along the side of the boat(under the shelves on each side) that will be a pain to deal with. Let me know if you want some insight. Mike

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Thanks for all the help. I bought and cut a 3/4 piece of pressure treated plywood by recomedation from a guy that works at Ridge Lumber who told me that a sheet of the Marine plywood was $115.00 a sheet :shock: instead of the $44.00 for the pressure treated stuff and he said it will last 10 years at least if I treat it with some water proofing too. they cuit it to perfect size for me too.

went to West Marine and found the same material that I have in it now and it was $13+ dollars for a 1' X 6' foot piece, that's $39 to just reapir the back end of the boat :shock: . I then looked for some on the net and found the same material at a place called Defenders for $14.50 for a 3' X 6' piece :D so I amy replace it up to the console now :roll: :?

I am gonna look into the Durabak stuff too but it may be a whole lot more work to sand/remove all the glue and it's $90 a gallon :shock: .

I'll keep you all posted.

P. S mark not sure if I have your number still it was in my messages from the OLD BOARD!

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Only problem with PT wood is that it has a tremondous amount of mositure in it. Make sure to let it dryout for quite at while before you seal it with resin/epoxy etc. Otherwise that moisture will try to escape and it will bubble up the sealer, flooring etc. Plus it is more prone to warping and lifting because of the moisture and can delaminate.

Let us know how it turns out! Good winter project!

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The preping has gone nicely so far :shock: ;). no major problems just 1 seat mount screw gave me a hard time. I recieved the material from Defenders.com on Thursday (order it on line on Tuesday :shock: :D :!: )

It was $15.99 for the 3'x6' and I went with 9' so it goes up under the console almost all the way.

I looked into the Durbax stuff and there was more involved with special primer, rollers ect. and prep stuff too. Plus I have what I believe are drain holes in the aluminum floor that would have had to be plugged too. I figured by using the same material that was in there then it would match the bow also.

Does anybody know where I can buy the thin wood (it's about 1-1/4" wide and 3/8" thick) that the vinyl wraps around for trim on the sides of the boat. I have one piece that the wood is rotted on and want to replace it. Home Depots thinnest stuff was about 1/3" to thick.

Thanks

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Tom

Pitsford Lumber in Schoen Place (Pittsford off Monroe Ave) has every type of wood you could imagine and will cut and plane it to what ever you want. Hardwoods, softwoods, exotics, "weird" stuff. Little pricey but if you don't have a wood working shop in the basement, well worth it.

Tom B.

(LongLine)

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