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Here's a good read, unfortunately it doesn't address the new 60lb wire on the market: http://www.bloodruntackle.com/choose-your-weapon/

It's probably fair to assume the 60lb wire will allow people to run less length to reach the same depths as 45lb and should also reach a greater depth in the same length all things being equal.

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When using copper wire boat speed becomes a big factor...especially when running other types of setups along with it. Copper like other lines has a "bowing effect" especially when speed is picked up and you have a lot of it out. When running in deep water the "lift" when speed increases can be beneficial but when using a copper rig in shallower depths you can't slow up too abruptly because you'll hang up on bottom and sometimes it's not the lure that hangs up its the "belly" of the copper if you have too much out for that depth. Unless fished relatively deep it can sometimes be difficult to regulate your speed for the other equipment for optimal performance and it can be difficult to assess exactly where the copper is running when you are changing speeds frequently. The 45 lb braided (stranded) copper seems to have more drag than the 30 lb but it also seems more resistant to kinking and that for me is more important....the braided is certainly less liable to kink than the single strand that is primarily used for bottom fishing (e.g jerking copper).

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Most people are running 45lb copper on Lake Ontario. Different manufactured copper have different twist rates which affect it's depth curve. The tighter the twist the heavier the copper is per foot. With A-TOM-MIK copper the rule of thumb always has been 22' per 100' out with a spoon, and 20' per 100' out with an 8" paddle going 2.5mph. This varies with currents and water temps. 

 

My suggestion to you is if you aren't keeping the fish for consumption, or fishing tourneys, then don't go over a 300' copper. You can still get that on a fast reel, and generally you can revive a fish caught on that. You can achieve 60-70' with that rig.

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Starting with a 300 is perfect. 

 

I've got Okuma convectors, CV-55L, and I like them.  The drags are good, and you can easily fit 300 yards of backing and 300' of copper.  Okuma makes a copper trolling rod, with larger diameter stainless steel guides, I don't have those on my boat, but they look like a great copper rod at a reasonable price.

 

Good Luck

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We've been running Daiwa Heartland 9' 6" diver rods for copper for about 7/8 years now with great success. They are fairly cheap rods at around $40. You don't need special eyes for the copper. When it comes to reels I only know that a Dawia Saltist 50, and a Penn 340 will fit 300' of copper. I would imagine a Tekota 700 would also, and for Okuma I have no clue. I can tell you that a Daiwa Saltist 50 is fast, needs no drag upgrade, and will last a long time. We've had 300' of copper on them for 5 seasons now, and they only seem to get better with age.

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A 300' copper is a great place to start. Okuma Clarion 553LS or Okuma Convector 55L with a Okuma Classic Pro GLT copper rod make for a great copper combo.

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  • 2 weeks later...

As far as possible! I run my boards out as far as I can depending on the boat traffic that day. 30-40 ft minimum. I started running copper last year off otter boats. I have a 300 on a Saltist and a 500 on a Tekota. I can tell you I much prefer 45 lbs Blood Run copper. It seems to deploy easier and kinks less. Use spro swivels for all connections and tie in about 7 ft of heavy mono between the backing and copper. Your releases will hold/attach much better to mono. Also, don't have it in the water unless its attached to the board line. It makes a huge mess when it tangles everything....but their's days it outproduces everything else!

Edited by BAZOOKAJOE
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300 is a good length to start with. Buy some dive bombs in various sizes (they are cheap). They add 5 to 8 feet of depth per ounce, IIR. I find I use my 300 and 450 with dive bombs versus longer lengths. This cuts down on the number of rods you need to buy and carry and gives shorter runs to retrieve. Dive bombs give you the flexibility to run from 60 to 100 down on a 300.

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How easily do your releases slide down with a dive bomb? I have a couple I've never tried. Heard that's a problem with them. They dig in and the copper takes forever to move out to the side.

Dive bombs add some pull to the rig for sure. I find that actually helps the release slide out on the board line. I use shower rings and rubber bands. The more weight on the line - the easier it slides out. Nothing worse than trying to get a light surface mono line with an Evil Eye to move out on the board line. I don't even use big boards until I start running copper or cores. Light mono lines don't like to slide out so, I stick to in-lines for shallow trout fishing.

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