Jump to content

Mounting Bracket for 9.9 kicker


shadster

Recommended Posts

I recently acquired a long shaft Yamaha 4 stroke 9.9 to use as a kicker. My dilemma  is finding the right bracket to run alongside my 60/45 jet. There is no room on the transom for it. Can anyone recommend a good kicker bracket. that will support the heavy motor that won't break the bank? I was looking at a Garelick 71093 but it is kind of pricey. Is there anything comparable or another way to go?

 

I included a picture of the transom I need to put it on. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. 

post-143699-0-07535700-1372132227_thumb.jpg

post-143699-0-79756700-1372132314_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well the 9.9 can't be cheap, why skimp on the mounting system? I'd put the best one I could on for it. If you don't want to spend the money on new look around for a used unit. I think I saw  something similar in the classified section on here.

Good luck.

 

Spike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well the 9.9 can't be cheap, why skimp on the mounting system? I'd put the best one I could on for it. If you don't want to spend the money on new look around for a used unit. I think I saw  something similar in the classified section on here.

Good luck.

 

Spike

I hear what you are saying Spike. My thoughts were of the possible options out there from different mfg's who offer these brackets. Cadillacs are nice but a Ford will get me to the same place......Or should I say it might. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have that Garelick bracket for a 15 hp 4 stroke Evenrude. It works OK except I had to have a brace installed inside to give the transom extra strength.  I also have to cinch the motor against the transom with a ratchet strap while trailering to keep the motor from bouncing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've had several and can't get over the price you pay for what you actually get. I stumbled upon an OMC kicker bracket on Craigslist one day and fell in love with the thing. It has a gas piston assist to make raising/lowering effortless with one hand, as well as simple automatic lockouts for up and down positions so no bouncing while its up.

They're pretty common used on eBay, sometimes under $100 shipped. I bought another a few months ago for another boat (Craigslist again). Guy was parting out a boat windshield and I saw the bracket on the old hull. Sent him a txt and he said if I came out that night it would cost $15 lol

post-152394-13722164518368_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've used the stainless version with my 9.9 on my Whaler for 12 years and it has been fine without any additional supports other than a 1 1/2 inch thick synthetic block it is mounted to against the transom on the outside and bolted through . They are pretty good quality. In my view it is a very important item which should not be skimped on....the OMC bracket above has been used for years by several friends and they are great too and may be a little easier to pull the motor to the up position with.

Edited by Sk8man
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is just my 2 cents,but it seems to me that with some small adjustments to your transom there should be room  on the transom itself to hang right next to the main engine. This would be the cheapest way to go and with a support on the inside you will also strengthen the integrety of the transom

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is just my 2 cents,but it seems to me that with some small adjustments to your transom there should be room  on the transom itself to hang right next to the main engine. This would be the cheapest way to go and with a support on the inside you will also strengthen the integrety of the transom

 

 

 

Here are some pictures of what I have with the kicker mounted to the left extreme of the transom. When I steer the big motor to the left the steering bar runs into the kicker. It is a matter of only an inch or so to where it wouldn't hit. Any thoughts. I need all of the steer rod for the right.turn.

post-143699-0-58723300-1372269700_thumb.jpg

post-143699-0-33529900-1372269725_thumb.jpg

post-143699-0-61470700-1372269781_thumb.jpg

post-143699-0-08215800-1372269803_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There are 2 simple solutions available.

The simplest one is adding another 2 inches of height in the area where your kicker hangs.

One side of the board should be cut under the same angle that your transom rises at the splash box. This should give you another 4 or 5 inches of room to play with. It really is not very important for a kicker's cavitation plate to be flush with your keel. As long as the prop is fully submerged ,you are fine.

The other solution is making a horizental cut in your transom towards the side and creating more space for the kicker that way.This does in no way compromise the integrity of your transom.

Having the kicker hanging on the transom is way better than having it a foot behind it. While boating and during transport.

As for savings. Not only do you save yourself a Garelick bracket , but you do not need an EZ steer setup either.You can use a front steering bar (Stearns) that costs $25.

The Garelick and EZ steer together are about $500.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not really any of my business but is that transom big enough to carry all that weight . I run 8 and 9.9 ht Yamahas on our 20 and 23 ft glass boats both IO"S and those kicker motors make their presence known with the weight. Hope it works out for you.

Edited by bigblue
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

With some great advice from rolmops this is what I came up with for a bracket for my kicker motor.

I used a 2X4 and bolted two 5/16 x 4 1/2 lag screws through it and into the wood riser that holds the jet motor on an even keel. I then used two 3/16 steel plates and fastened them all together with five 3/8 x 2 1/2 bolts. I also used a 1/4 x 2 1/2  screw hook in the angle to help tie it all together. All said and done the mount is really solid.

 

Now the test will be to put the heavy 4 stroke 9.9 on it and seeing how it holds up. The motor is listed as 104 # dry wt. I used a hoist with a scale to weigh it and it reads 120#. Hard to imagine some oil and lube weighing 15#. There sure won't be any lifting this thing on and off without the hoist. I'll be adding a removable steering bar once we see how it does,

 

Any suggestions or words of advice before taking it on the water would be appreciated.

 

Thanks again to rolmops for his helping me realize this project and saving me a whole lot of cash..

post-143699-0-31200500-1373363645_thumb.jpg

post-143699-0-67534400-1373363660_thumb.jpg

Edited by shadster
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I added a really strong bow/stern hook with a backer plate specifically for this purpose. I then used a coated cable and a rubberized padlock to secure it. I'm less concerned about theft than I would be about it coming off the bracket or something like that, but this serves both purposes.

 

Good luck. It seems like you are in the home stretch.

 

Kyle

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That looks really nice.  To have the whole thing on just 2 bolts through ther transom may cause it to start pivoting on that line.  I would feel better if you run two more bolts through the transom.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'd 2nd the safety cable idea. On my kicker motors I can run a padlock through the screw-down handles when they meet up together in the middle.

You can easily run a cable through the hole in the splash well and loop through somewhere secure on the motor. Home Depot and Lowe's have steel stranded cable with a bonded vinyl sheath and stainless connectors (u-bolt/saddles). I think it cost me $8 to do the whole thing and is good for something like 250lbs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

That looks really nice.  To have the whole thing on just 2 bolts through ther transom may cause it to start pivoting on that line.  I would feel better if you run two more bolts through the transom

I see what you are saying  about that. Just torquing the motor could start that problem. Do you think a diamond pattern for  the bolts or two more horizontal?

 

 

You can easily run a cable through the hole in the splash well and loop through somewhere secure on the motor.

Thanks for the suggestion Meals!

Edited by shadster
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...